So I'm on my 3rd foamy now (Vrolet) and it seems that with every foamy I make the flight characteristics get better.. but not great. First foamy was an eflite 260 with a park 370, the only good thing it did was harrier... then I remade the 260 much lighter with a small hacker and smaller batterys and 1 less servo, much better, but still lacking a lot of the characteristics I'd like. The motor I have been having problems with so it kept cutting out and pretty much destroyed the 260. So im onto my 3rd foamy the vrolet. My building skills aren't super great, so the wings arent perfectly level, this plane has much better characteristics such as knife edges and point rolls. but still not great, and I can't seem to figure out how all the pros get there foamys to fly so perfect. There has to be secrets out there on battery placement and such..

Get yourself an E-Flite Byp Yak. THE ABSOLUTE BEST FOAMY! Mine hovered hands off. Mine was on the piggy side with a park 400 and 1320 lipo, but it was so fun! You couldn't even tell it was overweight.

I think that no matter what it is, a new foamy always seems to fly better than the previous one. Might just be you progress as your skillz improve that makes you think they fly better.

Originally Posted by Gus155

I think that no matter what it is, a new foamy always seems to fly better than the previous one. Might just be you progress as your skillz improve that makes you think they fly better.

It's not even that.. I can do everything its just I feel like im doing something wrong setup wise (ie. battery placement and cg)

Vertical CG and Lateral CG also must be taken into account for good foamy setup. Vertical CG is adjusted by moving the battery up and down to lock in KE. Lateral CG is done the same way as larger airplanes.

You've also got to be as careful as possible about getting everything straight. That's especially important on bipes like the Vrolet. For that plane specifically, make sure your tail is stiff and wont twist, that your ailerons are all perfectly neutral when the servo is centered, and that it's light. Mine all flew pretty well at 5.2 oz for the Freestyle version and 5.5 for the F3P version, but lighter than that is even better.

RJ

I completely agree. Especially the super light foamy's are extremely sensitive to weight shifts. Change from a 350 to a 480 pack the coupling just changed....move the battery a little higher/lower...now it rolls out of KE. Good foamys may be cheap, but the're NOT as simple as it seems.

I definately agree with everyones comments! MrKiwi, I LOVE the byp yak! I've been through 2 of them.
I've been experimenting with the Shockflyer Yak design...I've built a few from plans, and each one
i build flies better and better. I've been studying the flight characteristics from the first one, and making changes to the new ones as i go along to correct the problem areas from the first few.
Keep it light as possible, balanced properly, and Build them as straight as humanly possible!
Metro, What motor, esc, servos and battery are you using in the vrolet?

What is your rtf weight also?

Originally Posted by Huckin'Chikn

I definately agree with everyones comments! MrKiwi, I LOVE the byp yak! I've been through 2 of them.
I've been experimenting with the Shockflyer Yak design...I've built a few from plans, and each one
i build flies better and better. I've been studying the flight characteristics from the first one, and making changes to the new ones as i go along to correct the problem areas from the first few.
Keep it light as possible, balanced properly, and Build them as straight as humanly possible!
Metro, What motor, esc, servos and battery are you using in the vrolet?

Hacker a10-7l
2 cell 800's
3 hs-55's
berg 4l
not sure of the esc (christmas present, cant find the box)
AUW- 7.3 oz


I can't get the motor set up to work, sometimes i can get it to work and have a full flight, other times it cuts out about 20 seconds in... then it will redo the initiation beeps andi t will be very quiet and the motor wont run anymore...
i also have a thunderbird 9 esc and another berg, and a park 370.. maybe i should try the thunderbird 9 esc with it...
I really want to get 2 true foamys set up for this winter but i need more equip.

Eric, you are on the right track.....

HPA (RJ) had good comments in his post.

Here's a few other things that will help.....Having the right tools and techniques will help immensely.

You really have to start off with a straight airframe, so how do you get there? First tool you need is a flat, level building table. Foamies don't like to be built 'in the air' like most people build them. They are too flexible when unassembled to ever expect them to be straight when you're done unless you build them against something straight..... You can borrow the kitchen table if allowed (My wife would kill me) or set up something flat and level in your building area.

Next up, you need something very square. I use a heavy builder's square I got at the home depot for $8, along with some perfectly square steel blocks. You can even cut up some wooden blocks (must be cut perfectly square) to build with.

Once you've got those, then start assembling the airframe flat and square. If it uses carbon braces, tack them all at first and make sure the airplane is square once you've removed it from the table. If it stays square off the table, then go ahead and glue the bracing joints solid. As you are building look for anywhere you have built a warp into it. Avoid doing that at all costs..... if you do that, you are 'pre warping' your airplane!!!!!

Once built straight, go to the following link and use the setup instructions to help figure out the vertical CG (very important in any airplane, but especially a bipe).

https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...html#post44186

Finally, build lighter. Use less glue. Use less tape. Use lighter components (HS55's don't belong indoors). Lighter airplanes don't fly better as much as they do everything slower and give you more time to react, correct, etc.

FWIW, I'm getting ready for indoor season too..... and I'll spend at least as much time building (likely more) my new jigs for 07-08 foamy building as I would building one foamy. Once I've got my jig done, building a straight foamy becomes easy and quick...

Originally Posted by Matchless

Eric, you are on the right track.....

HPA (RJ) had good comments in his post.

Here's a few other things that will help.....Having the right tools and techniques will help immensely.

You really have to start off with a straight airframe, so how do you get there? First tool you need is a flat, level building table. Foamies don't like to be built 'in the air' like most people build them. They are too flexible when unassembled to ever expect them to be straight when you're done unless you build them against something straight..... You can borrow the kitchen table if allowed (My wife would kill me) or set up something flat and level in your building area.

Next up, you need something very square. I use a heavy builder's square I got at the home depot for $8, along with some perfectly square steel blocks. You can even cut up some wooden blocks (must be cut perfectly square) to build with.

Once you've got those, then start assembling the airframe flat and square. If it uses carbon braces, tack them all at first and make sure the airplane is square once you've removed it from the table. If it stays square off the table, then go ahead and glue the bracing joints solid. As you are building look for anywhere you have built a warp into it. Avoid doing that at all costs..... if you do that, you are 'pre warping' your airplane!!!!!

Once built straight, go to the following link and use the setup instructions to help figure out the vertical CG (very important in any airplane, but especially a bipe).

https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...html#post44186

Finally, build lighter. Use less glue. Use less tape. Use lighter components (HS55's don't belong indoors). Lighter airplanes don't fly better as much as they do everything slower and give you more time to react, correct, etc.

FWIW, I'm getting ready for indoor season too..... and I'll spend at least as much time building (likely more) my new jigs for 07-08 foamy building as I would building one foamy. Once I've got my jig done, building a straight foamy becomes easy and quick...

There is one great tip in there that will help me is using something square and bracing first... Ill be reading that other thread too.

I had an eflite 260 foamie that flew great. I could hover that thing all day with a little different setup. I had a standard Spectrum Reciever towards that back of the plane with the battery. 1250MAH lipo. And a Park 400. Then it'll fly better. Keep the servos the same though.

Originally Posted by thewrap

I had an eflite 260 foamie that flew great. I could hover that thing all day with a little different setup. I had a standard Spectrum Reciever towards that back of the plane with the battery. 1250MAH lipo. And a Park 400. Then it'll fly better. Keep the servos the same though.

I almost want to buy another one of these foamys just because they're so durable, but I really want a very light and true indoor flyer, i have my templates made for this design so I might remake it for a 3rd time and try some different things, one thing is for sure I need an all new motor/esc setup and I really want 2 of them so I may end up selling off the motors and escs and starting fresh.

Yeah well I'm on my second one due to serveral midairs with a larger stronger electric it didn't survive. So to replane that I bought a Sobre, good plane like the 260 same setup just got boring. So I ended up with another 260. But if you have to oportunity then get another and try that. It works great.

as far as hs55's go, this is what i have to say: futaba s3114

i switched from the 55's to the s3114's because they are quick as heck STRONG as heck, and there the same price... $14.99 on tower hobbies. they rule!!!!!