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Old 05-27-2013, 03:59 PM   #301
Floridarc
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But GP and DA engines have better quality control than EME and DLE engines.
I personally would rather have quality engines than a bad engine with a electric starter.
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:02 PM   #302
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Heres the link to Justins just to cool. Now he needs to mount it to a actual plane. http://youtu.be/sSoRJ4elNRc
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:17 PM   #303
jerrysu29
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Quote: Originally Posted by Floridarc
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But GP and DA engines have better quality control than EME and DLE engines.
I personally would rather have quality engines than a bad engine with a electric starter.
That's your Opinion. We all have one. I would rather have the "Quality" DLE or an EME any day, That's all I have to say about that!!! I have a DA 50 with said starter. Took it to my local cnc guy and he made the parts I needed to mount the starter.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:16 AM   #304
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I have a problem I would like to share and get some feedback on from you guys. I have installed the new EME starters on two DLE 55s. I also purchased the controller and two 3s 1800ma batteries. We are using two different radios on these devices. A Hitec Aurora 9 and a 9503.

After installation both devices are working fine. We have around 20-30 starts (or maybe I should say cranks) on each during testing with prop and spinners installed. One is in the Top Flight FW 190 and the other is in the CMP Zero.

We are experiencing the same problem with both units. Now when we engage the starter the starter clicks and the prop bumps about a half inch. If we connect the batteries to the starters directly the starters turn over. We used an inline watt meter between the battery and the controller to see if we were getting the proper current. When we hit the switch (with the watt meter installed) the starter engaged and worked properly. When we take the watt meter out the motor just clicks.

Our thinking is there could be a capacitor in the watt meter helping get things started but I really don’t have a clue as to why the system works with the watt meter installed on both systems. I was thinking maybe it produces a short electrical delay we are not producing with the radios needed to get the controller to operate.

Problem is everything worked great in the shop and just quit working at the field.

If you could provide us with some ideas I would really appreciate it.

By the way, we really love the starters. After starting the engine with your transmitter the cool factor makes you look over your shoulder and say, Dat’s right biotches, you ain’t got one a Deeez. Then you complete the statement with a Chevy Chase Grand Canyon head bob and taxi your beast to the runway.

Thank you Mile High RC for providing us with yet another new product so we can continue our quest to provoke our closest friends with meaningless phrases that are juvenile in nature and diabolical in thought with a marked propensity towards procrastination and sloth.

Ya gotta love this sport.
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:10 AM   #305
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Condor060,

Quote:
Thank you Mile High RC for providing us with yet another new product so we can continue our quest to provoke our closest friends with meaningless phrases that are juvenile in nature and diabolical in thought with a marked propensity towards procrastination and sloth.

Ya gotta love this sport.
Few would have sais it better!
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:40 PM   #306
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[quote=Slick 2;1869058]any one know any thing about how to get the eme on
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Old 07-03-2013, 03:40 AM   #307
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Quote: Originally Posted by Condor060
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I have a problem I would like to share and get some feedback on from you guys. I have installed the new EME starters on two DLE 55s. I also purchased the controller and two 3s 1800ma batteries. We are using two different radios on these devices. A Hitec Aurora 9 and a 9503.

After installation both devices are working fine. We have around 20-30 starts (or maybe I should say cranks) on each during testing with prop and spinners installed. One is in the Top Flight FW 190 and the other is in the CMP Zero.

We are experiencing the same problem with both units. Now when we engage the starter the starter clicks and the prop bumps about a half inch. If we connect the batteries to the starters directly the starters turn over. We used an inline watt meter between the battery and the controller to see if we were getting the proper current. When we hit the switch (with the watt meter installed) the starter engaged and worked properly. When we take the watt meter out the motor just clicks.

Our thinking is there could be a capacitor in the watt meter helping get things started but I really donít have a clue as to why the system works with the watt meter installed on both systems. I was thinking maybe it produces a short electrical delay we are not producing with the radios needed to get the controller to operate.

Problem is everything worked great in the shop and just quit working at the field.

If you could provide us with some ideas I would really appreciate it.

By the way, we really love the starters. After starting the engine with your transmitter the cool factor makes you look over your shoulder and say, Datís right biotches, you ainít got one a Deeez. Then you complete the statement with a Chevy Chase Grand Canyon head bob and taxi your beast to the runway.

Thank you Mile High RC for providing us with yet another new product so we can continue our quest to provoke our closest friends with meaningless phrases that are juvenile in nature and diabolical in thought with a marked propensity towards procrastination and sloth.

Ya gotta love this sport.

I have got same problem on DLE-55 saturday 29. I have not made your test but yesterday evening all working fine again. I wonder about tempertature inside cowl.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:06 AM   #308
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At the risk of sounding like we know what we are doing, me thinks we found the solution. After hours of trying different ideas we stumble across the possibility of to many amps to the controller. A freshly charged 3s 1800ma pack won't engauge the controller but a worn out puffy 3s pack will start the motor every time.

We tried several 3s packs and the only ones that would work were less the 1400ma packs.

We checked the amps on the new 3s 1800ma pack (to the controller) and it was 22. Since we had success with the watt meter we decided to choke the amps to the controller to see what happens. Using 20 gauge wire we made an 8 inch jumper to go between the battery and the controller. Anything less than 8 inches doesn't work. We are looking to choke amps, not voltage.

Now the controller works every time on every pack we have. Go figure.
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:04 AM   #309
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Default EME 60 AUTO START

We are the distributor for EME engines in Canada - We received a prototype of the EME 60 with the AUTO START Kit installed (from the factory) a few months ago, we have been testing it for awhile now, here are our initial impressions:

I installed the EME 60 with AUTO START on our Giant Stick Plane (we use this plane for some of our initial product and engine testing).

The installation is pretty straight forward - in addition to mounting the engine, you need to do the following:

-Solder switch/battery leads to the starting motor.
-Install a switch to activate the starter (EME has an AUTO START Switch that connects to the AUTO START motor and to your transmitter - we used the prototype of the EME switch in this install - it works very well).
-Mount a battery for the AUTO START - We used a 3S LiPo.
-Install a servo to operate the choke.

Remote choke operation is a must - it really doesn't make sense to have a manual choke on a AUTO START engine. If the choke was manual, you would have to bend down and set the choke on/off manually to start the engine. The idea of the remote start is to do everything from the transmitter.

We have been flying the EME60 with AUTO START for a couple of months now, and so far so good. The AUTO START feature works very well. It takes 4 or 5 short switch bursts to get the engine to pop with the engine cold and choke on - once it pops, it usually only takes 1 or 2 switch bursts to start the engine.

Here is a video of the engine starting on the ground:


The plane also has an ULTRA IBEC installed - this eliminates the Ignition battery and allows for the engine to be killed via the transmitter. This allows us to perform an IN AIR engine kill with the IBEC and an IN AIR engine Restart with the AUTO RESTART.

Here is a video of an IN AIR engine restart:


Overall we are very impressed with the AUTO START - works very well.

The AUTO START components (less battery) add about 18 - 19oz of weight to the plane (most of that is in the gears and motor).

We use a 2200Mah 3S Lipo - and can get around 40 starts (or engine turn overs) before a recharge is required. So a smaller capacity(lighter) battery is no problem.

More information on the EME 60cc AUTO START can be found here - http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...oducts_id=1660


If anyone has any questions - let me know,

Grizak
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