Hi All,
This is my first plane larger than 1/4 scale so critique as needed, i can handle it! Pulled it all out of the box today and overall so far I am impressed. (I have built several kit's and arf's over the years just none this big!) I did have some cowl damage but Chief Aircraft has been notified and is handling the replacement.
Here is my equipment list,
DLE 170 stock muffs
Mejzlik 32x10 CF 2-blade
Smart Fly EQ6 Turbo (needed for the servo matching)
2ea 2650mah 20C lipo's for servo's Smart fly set to 6.5v
1ea 2100mah 20C lipo regulated to 6vdc for Ignition
TBM Smart Switch Pin Flag
Smart Fly 6v reg for IGN

Servo's,
6 Hitec 7954SH
2ea Aileron
1ea Elev
1 Hitec 7980TH
1ea rudder
1 Hitec 5245
1ea throttle
Kit supplied arm's and Hardware
All extensions will be custom made to length by me

Spektrum AR9020 rec
JR 9303 2.4G

Undecided (ideas??) Fuel tank, wheel's (stk one's look fine)

I have already run into my first problem. In order to get the proper spinner to cowl clearance I have to set the firewall back more than 1/2" into the motor box and the rt cylinder head is hitting the motor box. Idea's?

Here are some pics so far,

Dont cut anything, A DLE 170 will fit ! Not sure what u mean spinner/cowl clearance ! Do you mean Cowl to the end of motor shaft??? I have ran the exact set up just different servos (Love Hitec) Do you need pics ?? Mine is on a 3DHS 42% Extra 330

Here are 3 pictures, Look how far back the firewall is and I still need it to back another 1/4" to have the proper fit between the prop hub to cowl clearance.

Found the manual for the 36%, you cut the excess wood off after you determine the proper mounting position.

Yea trim the excess off, and give it a good 1/8" - 1/4" of clearance. That will not hurt the integrity of the motor box.

Also if you want a trouble free motor box, don;t just trust those screws. I like to get a hard wood 1/4" dowel or what ever size will fit in the middle of your firewall and still leave you some "meat" on either side of the hole. Drill into the firewall through the side supports, and then use 30 min epoxy to pin that fire wall in with the dowel rod pieces. That makes it solid as a rock. Especially if the dowel fits tight into the hole you drill.

I have two suggestions if you plane on flying this bird for IMAC. 1) I highly recomend investing in a set of canisters for the DLE-170, I had one in my pilot-rc yak 54 and used there cans and it was quiet quiet quiet! You can get the set from valley view RC for like $350 bucks, and theese are DLE's headers and cans which work awesome and are of good quality or you can get DLE's headers for the 170 from chief and use Pro-Flows. This setup will be quiter and perform flawlessly with gobs of power, however its a lil bit more money. The headers and a set of Large rear exit pro-flows will run ya about $550. But with the stock mufflers, throttle management, and a 3 bladed prop you can control your sound for IMAC. 2) The 32x10 Mejzlik on this motor is not enough prop for it, she will rip it! I used a 30x13 evo and a 29x12n Mejzlik 3 blade. If you plane on flying IMAC I highly recomend the aboue for sound and performance, especially the prop mainly the 3 blade, it will give you great performance and a very constant speed and very good downline breaking. And as far as the engine spacing is concerned i would build the fire wall with the pins as sleepy suggested, and move it back to get the spinner clearance you want and use 1/4'' stand offs, this is what i did on my yak to get the cylinder heads away from the firewall. Which is good for cooling reason.

Zach Bloomquist

Move the firewall back as needed. Run the Aprox 7/8's standoffs that came with the engine. You may need to drill the standoff's id to 1/4 as there metric.

+1 on the dowels, although I like to use carbon rod for this application. I also add a strip of aluminium flat bar the height of the motor box on the side where the bolts go through the engine box and the aluminium angle on the inside of the box(if that makes sense to you).

I'm assembling the same kit with a powerbox royale setup at the moment so will keep an eye on this thread for some ideas.

Also would use two 7980TH on rudder. And do not use the kit supplied servo arms, use SWB arms. Rutnbuc

Originally Posted by wylieruneyjr

Also would use two 7980TH on rudder. And do not use the kit supplied servo arms, use SWB arms. Rutnbuc

I really think 600oz of torque is plenty for IMAC, could be wrong though. If I was doing crazy 3D then I would agree.

What is wrong with the kit supplied arms? Remember this is not a 3D monster i'm building. When that day comes, then I will upgrade all the servo's and arm's. But if the arm's fail at 20deg of throw then I see your point. They look pretty strong to me.

I want to add, thank you very much for the advice,not trying to argue, trying to learn!

The arms are fine, it's the plastic wheel that you bolt on them that I worry about. Especially on a 40%.

I have sripped one before on a 50cc rudder, although it was after a few tail touches.

Firewall is installed, pinned, triangle stock, and ready for motor.

Good point on the plastic servo disk no holding up. I think i will use them on the aileron since I have 2 servo's per but will by the good metal one's for elev and rudder.

Still trying to figure out the fuel tank set-up as i want to put it over the CG/wing tube but it would have to be a pretty flat tank.

Here is the picture of the motor installed. I am going to make baffles to direct air down and behind the heads for cooling.

Hi, I did move my tank to the CG Location (over the wing tube). I posted a couple of photos. It is located in the Pilot RC Support Forum on the first page, 3 or 4 posts down. I thought "TONY" would have commented on it by now, guess it is ok with him. Chic

Make sure to close off open airway in the front and baffle around engine for correct air flow.