Well, I was bored today at the field, since nobody was around I've decided to push my RC Factory foamy to the limit and see how I can break it in the air. I have around 800 flights on my foamy so it's time for a new plane anyway..

I tried:

1. go up high, full throttle down line, full aieron spin following by full speed blender and then inverted flat spin.

I do this all the time so I know it's not going to break my foamy. However I did able to break a friend's depron plane. I had also tried this on my 3DHS 72" Extra and able to twist the canopy out of the fuseluge once.

2. go up high and full speed down line like there is no tomorrow and suddenly pull down elevator to 'inverted flight'.

Bingo!! the carbon fiber rod snap and the wing flutter like a butterfly and crash. However I did try many times with pull 'up' to normal flight without any problem. I think most of the planes are design to hold stronger when you fly normally... or maybe just because my foamy is closed to retirement.

after some welder glue and carbon fiber rod, my die-hard foamy is ready to fly/dive/die again.
Anyone got any other suggestion that I can try?

Cheers,
Jack

Try the 0 of 8. That should do it!

Originally Posted by BOSSIER_ROB

Try the 0 of 8. That should do it!

Yuri will only attempt this risky maneuver on a down line Dead Stick.... when he does it right.. the motor will restart!!

Originally Posted by Mithrandir

Yuri will only attempt this risky maneuver on a down line Dead Stick.... when he does it right.. the motor will restart!!

I saw him trying the deadstick downline 0 of 8. The plane didn't survive.

I was a Nall when he blew up his extra trying to do the air restart. It was spectacular!

i saw him do it at xfc in 2008 on his krill model....the wing looked like it was screaming in pain as he pulled out

Originally Posted by BOSSIER_ROB

Try the 0 of 8. That should do it!

well, I am asking how to break it in the air, not crash it on the ground

1St Step: OVER POWER the plane.

2nd Step: make the plane OVERWEIGHT

3rd Step: Full power downline to terminal velocity, then pull full Up.

Most GS planes have full length longerons along the bottom which is under tension in a negative G manuever, so I think most GS plane are a little stronger in the negative loading direction.

For positive loads, the weak point is usually at the fuse right at the aft end of the canopy ( I broke one in half there. The resulting parabolic trajectory into the ground was not a pretty sight).

If plane is still not broken, go back and repeat steps 1,2, & 3

12 gauge shotgun will do it.

^^^^

If you want the plane to break in the air you need to buy the right(wrong) airframe. So DO NOT buy an Extreme Flight or 3DHS plane. I have yet to see one fold in the air.

I have broke a 51" Slick before in air. Wingtube snap along with some ribs in the wing. Slung the battery out of the canopy and the battery flew for about 50 yards.

Originally Posted by Sukhoikid

I have broke a 51" Slick before in air. Wingtube snap along with some ribs in the wing. Slung the battery out of the canopy and the battery flew for about 50 yards.

That sucker was probably over powered. I use to over power my glow planes but, I knew how "NOT" to bust them up in the air. The ground is another story!!!

Originally Posted by Sukhoikid

I have broke a 51" Slick before in air. Wingtube snap along with some ribs in the wing. Slung the battery out of the canopy and the battery flew for about 50 yards.

I also have the fantasy blue 51" Slick and so far so good. Guess I am not pushing it hard enough yet

The only Giant scale ARFs I yet to break in the air are from either Aeroworks or Comp-Arf.

Plane-Bender