Thanks BB.
Yep, we'll keep it at something reasonable. Not quite sure what's up yet with the back end though, time will tell I guess...

Originally Posted by Bam Bam

Phil i did not blend the vert stab to the rudder. i think it looks ok, and you can get away with these things on a profile! check out the pic, you can see the different thickness of the vert and rudder.

Dont over do the throws! it doesn't get better once you reach a certain point, and you will risk popping joints if you fly with high energy!

My ele is at 55 deg, rudder is at 55 deg and aeilerons i cant remember if they are at 40 or 45 deg.
I did go higher and lower with everything, and i think that's the happiest place, for my flying. i found if i went more throw on say the aeilerons, it didn't get more effective, but started to introduce some other unwanted traits into the picture.
You must remember that these throws are extreme when you consider that profiles are pretty short coupled compared to most fatties.

cheers!

Just read a half dozen pages... somehow I was not getting updates. Phil, your plane looks great.


Andrew, can you explain what short coupling is? This plane is 80.5 inch wingspan and 79.5 inch nose to tail...

Thanks Richard. Gettin a little color on it really helps a lot...

Originally Posted by Phil Griffin

I gotta poke at Brian a bit...
THIS is the face of an IMAC guy testing the throw limits of a 3D airframe.

Well, I usually use a digital deflection meter. Seems Phil just needs a construction square.....

Bryan

:-)

Originally Posted by WrongWayRC

Just read a half dozen pages... somehow I was not getting updates. Phil, your plane looks great.


Andrew, can you explain what short coupling is? This plane is 80.5 inch wingspan and 79.5 inch nose to tail...

It's not a small plane, and im no aero designer, but, the wings and control surfaces are bigger than most 100 cc planes in a more compact footprint.
Short coupled planes have less distance from the aeilron to the stab, helps with doing things like tight loops. makes the plane very responsive. it's also why it would not be your first choice as a precision plane.

if you look at some imac planes, they strech the fuse so the tail group is further away and makes for a smoother flying plane. a plane with this wing area that is more scale would likely have a wing span of 106'' not 80. so again, the plane will roll much faster having shorter wings than a plane with 106" wing span, even if you set say 40deg aeileron travel on both planes, the profile will roll faster. it will also experience more torque roll.

40 deg travel on elevator for a regular plane vs a profile will have the profile doing much tighter loops. that's what i mean when i say a profile is short coupled vs a scale plane.

It's what makes profiles so much fun!!!

You are right about the 100cc things. Thanks for the info!

Actually the aerotech slick I'm flying also has a similar wing loading.
This plane can get just as slow and is just as light to fly, but it can't do alot of the things the slab does, even with more throw!

At the same time, it's a more stable and forgiving platform as its not so aggressive. Fly's straight lines very well!

I'm hoping that if the weather plays my way, I may get some vid of both planes this weekend!

Evening All.
Bryan came over this evening, and we spent a little time on the profile. Here's some pics.

You may remember from one of my previous postings, that we were wondering how to insert the already assembled & covered stab/elevator. Well, Bryan just sawed out a small chunk from the T.E. of the fuse and it slipped right in. This segment will be glued back into place later on. Question.. In pics one & two you'll notice the elevator & rudder servos in place. What is the best way to route the servo wires?

And I just noticed that we're soon to hit the 5 month mark...

Hi Phil,

if you look on the plans, it shows a cut out in each fibre glass tube. this is so you can run the servo wires in them. i ran 1 wire in each tube.

look closly at the wires in my fuse.

Originally Posted by Phil Griffin

. . . What is the best way to route the servo wires?

While some like to cut a couple holes in the fiberglass tubes and run them there, I prefer to run the wires just above the bottom tube. When I add the bracing between the tubes, I leave a gap at the bottom for wires. I also drill a passage in through the main wing crutch area to get wires from the back of the plane and another to get wires from the front of the plane to the middle. I pre-install the wires I need before I cover so when it comes time to add the electronics, everything will plug right in.

Here helping Phil.------------------------drink beer i think i am doing good.do not think he wants me to help any more.