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Old 12-24-2015, 03:37 PM
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I was sent 2 canopies and both fit a hundred times better then the one that came with it but the second one fits perfect and for the first time all 6 bolts line up perfectly. I also had the rudder linkage pull right out of the rudder during flight. I may have initiated this during assembly as I when I was screwing on the horn I let the metal screw turn instead of holding it with a wrench. I think this spun the already weakly glued dowel rod and it was only being held in by the thin ply sides of the rudder skin. I made some ply washers and will be repairing it tonight. H9 did send me another rudder but after the plane went disco'd I'm saving everything. They also sent me a new fuse because the wing tube socket pulled out but that was a relatively easy fix with some gorilla glue. Removing the old glue (or if you want to call it that) was laughable.
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Old 12-25-2015, 07:30 AM
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In case anyone's interested, here's details on the repair.

I made some ply backers and covered them with white monokote. The threaded rod was poly glued into place (no glue from factory just machine threads into wood) along with the larger backer with the hole in it. The smaller backer without the hole was poly glued into place on the rudder before the other assembly was installed. I used generous amounts of white gorilla poly glue on all parts and then gave them a spray with water to kick off the foaming action. It worked because glue was oozing out of the hinge slot almost an inch away. Now I know all the cavities in the foam are completely filled with glue and the ply backers tie the whole thing together. The weight of the backers was completely offset by the removal of the metal nut so the only addition was the glue. Not only is the nut not required anymore but it was part of the problem as it does not conform to the angle of the rudder sheeting. This was very poor craftsmanship from the factory.
Edit: I must re iterate that Horizon sent me all new parts no questions asked and they were very attentive to all issues. They even let me keep the parts to fix so I have no issues
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Last edited by Muttdog; 12-25-2015 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:07 AM
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HH shows to have in stock now.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:31 AM
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That's just crazy
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Old 12-25-2015, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
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HH shows to have in stock now.
crazy! I wonder if we made enough noise that they decided killing it was a bad idea?
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:07 AM
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Yeah I asked my contact about that and he says it's limited inventory and will sell out. guess we'll just have to wait and see. I'd buy it now if you want one.
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:26 AM
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Guys I'm heading in a different direction and need to sell the Carden to fund it. I'll be posting it in the classifieds soon but if your interested please PM me. I have a TON of parts almost a complete spare airframe only requiring a cowl and stabs to complete. DA60, Powersafe RX, Savox 1270's, fiji tank, carbon gear, wing/stab tubes, tech aero IBEC, 2 1700 LiFe, one click style servo connectors etc. Everything has about 1.5 hours total flight time. Shipping via greyhound is no problem. This really is 2 planes in one deal and with the plane now disco'd having the spare parts on hand will be priceless. $2k is the price BNF plus shipping but I can separate down to the airframe. All airframe parts go together I will not break up. Again, PM me with any questions.
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muttdog View Post
Guys I'm heading in a different direction and need to sell the Carden to fund it. I'll be posting it in the classifieds soon but if your interested please PM me. I have a TON of parts almost a complete spare airframe only requiring a cowl and stabs to complete. DA60, Powersafe RX, Savox 1270's, fiji tank, carbon gear, wing/stab tubes, tech aero IBEC, 2 1700 LiFe, one click style servo connectors etc. Everything has about 1.5 hours total flight time. Shipping via greyhound is no problem. This really is 2 planes in one deal and with the plane now disco'd having the spare parts on hand will be priceless. $2k is the price BNF plus shipping but I can separate down to the airframe. All airframe parts go together I will not break up. Again, PM me with any questions.
Scary. I just did the same thing. I have a ton of parts and a whole spare kit now too.
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:26 PM
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Electric start on EME 60

Anyone try the electric start on the EME60? From what I hear the hardware needed is over 20 ozs which much more nose weight than needed.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:13 PM
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I don't have any nose weight in mine. A carbon stab tube is not a lot of money and makes a big difference for balance. Shopping for lightweight servos/horns/pushrods will also yield very positive results. Several grams at the tail equals ounces at the nose. Having said that, if you simply want an electric start then by all means this is a good airframe for the reason you stated but it will effect the 3D flight performance of a somewhat heavy for it's size plane IMO.
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Old 02-25-2016, 02:17 PM
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Anyone still following this thread? I am finally assembling one and wondered how the CG comes out with a DA-60 and a MK75 Canister?

I am trying to find the best place to locate my batteries, 2 for the receiver and one for the DA-60. I am thinking about adding a piece of wood behind the throttle and choke servos for the 3 batteries, thoughts? I have read some put batteries beside the tank and one way up in the engine box, but I like to use LIFE or LIPOS and I never leave a battery in a plane after flying. Putting it in the engine box is a little tough to get to, but will do it if CG requires it.

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2016, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevi32 View Post
Anyone still following this thread? I am finally assembling one and wondered how the CG comes out with a DA-60 and a MK75 Canister?

I am trying to find the best place to locate my batteries, 2 for the receiver and one for the DA-60. I am thinking about adding a piece of wood behind the throttle and choke servos for the 3 batteries, thoughts? I have read some put batteries beside the tank and one way up in the engine box, but I like to use LIFE or LIPOS and I never leave a battery in a plane after flying. Putting it in the engine box is a little tough to get to, but will do it if CG requires it.

Thanks
I had the exact same setup with 123A's I put them on the sides of the motorbox. It was still a bit tail heavy but flew nice.
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:07 PM
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I also went with A123 up on the motorbox sides. I hate LIPOs for many reasons. Anyway, with the A123 up there the DA60 and a planebender canister, it balanced perfect, just a tad of lead maybe 2-3 ounces on the nose that's all.
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevi32 View Post
Anyone still following this thread? I am finally assembling one and wondered how the CG comes out with a DA-60 and a MK75 Canister?

I am trying to find the best place to locate my batteries, 2 for the receiver and one for the DA-60. I am thinking about adding a piece of wood behind the throttle and choke servos for the 3 batteries, thoughts? I have read some put batteries beside the tank and one way up in the engine box, but I like to use LIFE or LIPOS and I never leave a battery in a plane after flying. Putting it in the engine box is a little tough to get to, but will do it if CG requires it.

Thanks
Kevi, I have my LiFe's mounted to the removable door that covers the canister opening. Seeing as how you will be using a canister the motor mount is the next best option. Keep the tail as light as possible, spend a little extra money there in electronics/hardware to achieve the lightest setup and avoid any ballast in the nose.

If you have a newly built kit from the last batch I would highly recommend you take some time to go over the quality control. I have had significant problems including in flight failures that could have quite easily ended up in rubble. Most important is to double check the security of the servo horn control rods as they are mounted in the control surface. I had a wooden dowel rip out of the rudder in flight and since then found 3 more that wiggle in the elevator and ailerons. If you find them loose there is a fix and it's not too bad. I inject poly glue in the surface with syringe and then make a carbon fiber washer that is epoxied to the surface. I'll post pics when I get finished as only one is done but this project is on hold right now. Next is to go over every single glue joint you can find. I've had several joints fail including one side of the throttle tray mount. I got all new parts from Horizon but I don't trust them any more then the originals so the same procedures will be done to all control surfaces. It's a great plane and earlier versions have stood the test of time but quality control at the factory on the last batch seems to be lackluster at best. If you have a newer kit or waited for them to come off backorder last year CHECK YOUR AIRFRAME. If you PM me I can give you more specifics but time is not my friend lately and I only check in occasionally.
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:43 PM
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DA 60 here with proflow! I put batteries beside tank (7.4v 2600mah li ion) still tail heavy and added 4 ounces up front but I am running a Petes carbon spinner
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