Is there a way to test an ignition unit? I am trying to get a dle 55 up and running and I do believe I have solved my problem with drawing fuel, but it still won't run. I think it is the ignition. The engine is a friends and it has been sitting in his garage NIB for who knows how long haha. Maybe the ignition is a dud or went dead. I still need to get a new ngk cm6, but it should fire with the OEM plug. So can I test the ignition, or should I just buy a new one?

Only way I know you can generically test it and by passing a magnet by the hall sensor (or short it out) and check for spark. You will need an ignition test kit that rcExcel makes to test it through out the whole rpm range to test for any hiccups.

Put a plug in the plug cap, Hood a 4.8 volt battery direct to the ignition.

On the connector that comes from the ignition and goes to the hall sensor, Take a small wire and touch the two outside wires, every time you touch and take it off the ignition should fire.

Another way is to get a old futaba servo lead that will plug into the connector that goes to the hall sensor from the ignition, cut the other end off and strip the two outside wires, Every time you touch the wires together and take apart the ignition should fire.

Milton

A little more indepth troubleshooting guide.

Jody,

That troubleshooting guide is pretty hard to follow.

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I copied the document for you.

This troubleshooting guide is for Rcexl and many C&H ignitions, it will not work with DA ignitions. If you have no spark or think you are having an ignition problem, carefully following this guide will test the ignition module, hall sensor, and spark plug cap components. This guide can be used for single or twin cylinder ignitions, it does not test the manual or any optical ignition switches that may be in the system. You will need a good fully charged 4 cell Nicad or Nimh battery, an old servo extension, and your trusty volt meter. So,......


Take an old expendable servo extension and cut off the male plug end, separate the wires, strip a bit of insulation from each of the 3 leads and plug the other end into the sensor lead on the ignition module.

Put a good spark plug in the cap, doesn't need to be all the way seated but far enough for the hex of the plug to make good contact with the metal shell of the plug cap, plug a fully charged 4 cell battery directly into the ignition.

Test for battery voltage at the red and black wires of the test extension you made and plugged into the sensor lead of the module, if there is no voltage replace the module, if there is battery voltage->

Short the white and black wires together, every time you break this connection there should be a spark, no or intermittent spark=bad module, has good spark->

Remove the test lead and plug the sensor on the engine into the module and turn the engine over, no spark, replace the sensor, good spark->

Remove the spark plug, look down into the plug cap and turn the engine over, if you see spark arcing through the silicone boot to the metal shell, replace the spark plug cap, no visible spark but you hear a snap->

Put a small screw driver into the bottom of the cap, turn the engine over and you should observe spark jumping from the screw driver to the plug cap shell outside of the silicone boot, an arc of about 1/4"-3/8", if it does this there is nothing wrong with the ignition, if you hear an arc but it's not in the cap with the screw driver, it could be a problem with the resistor in the cap or the high tension lead where it goes into the cap, replace the plug cap.

All of this can be done on a bench, the plug does not need to be grounded to the engine.

Good luck!

Jody, I was wondering if I might ask a few questions regarding carbs? I will PM you if you have a moment.

Hmm, that's not what it looks like when I click on it.

Sure, no problem.

Thanks DoorGuy. I tried a couple of different ways to decode/download it, and came up with giberish each way. Must be like the TSA, I am so protected by my antivirus and firewall and .... that I can't get where I am going.

.

Originally Posted by CatalinaWOW

Thanks DoorGuy. I tried a couple of different ways to decode/download it, and came up with giberish each way. Must be like the TSA, I am so protected by my antivirus and firewall and .... that I can't get where I am going.

I get the same thing,thanks Doorguy also.

Originally Posted by CatalinaWOW

Thanks DoorGuy. I tried a couple of different ways to decode/download it, and came up with giberish each way. Must be like the TSA, I am so protected by my antivirus and firewall and .... that I can't get where I am going.

I clicked the doc and it opened right up in Microsoft Word.

What DoorGuy posted is verbatim to the word document...........formatting is not the same though.

I took Jody's word doc and converted it to a PDF which should work for everyone to download.

Well we went through the process and no matter what, we got a good spark. So it must be another problem

Btw can someone post a pic of how to assemble the cap and plug with the spring? It works without the spring, and it gives u a lot of troublt when we put the spring on. Is it necessary?

I've lost a few of the springs, and they still run fine. They are there to give you a better ground. If you have them I would use them.

The large end of the spring goes in first.

Squeeze the spring flat between your thumb and forfinger. Push the spring into the cap on its edge, then rotate the large end down into the cap. Use a small screw driver to organize the coils of the spring.