Originally Posted by ericb

Thanks for that link. I just ordered one.

Bump this thread when you get the carb Eric. If it doesn't have the spring choke lever, I'll get one for my 35................

Guys its super easy to swap the eme choke shaft into the walbro . Like 5 minutes tops.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...rburetor_.html
Don't wish to offend any of the "Purists" on this thread, but I have about 7 of these HLIC carbs on RC engines as well as Chainsaws with no problems whatsoever. In my case they are even more reliable "statisticly" than many of the Walbro's I have. Took one apart to compare to a (genuine) Walbro WT and could not see any difference in quality or workmanship, but maybe I am missing something?
IMO the failure rate is the same as a Walbro and if you are one of the unlucky 3% of users, any new carb (Walbro, EME or HLIC) will give the engine a new lease on life.

Originally Posted by mighty9

Guys its super easy to swap the eme choke shaft into the walbro . Like 5 minutes tops.

OK great. I saw you mentioned the shaft swap, but for some reason thought you swapped Walbro for Walbro, didn't know the EME carb parts were interchangeable with the 759.

Going to order right now. Thanks.................

Originally Posted by Clipped Wing

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...rburetor_.html
Don't wish to offend any of the "Purists" on this thread, but I have about 7 of these HLIC carbs on RC engines as well as Chainsaws with no problems whatsoever. In my case they are even more reliable "statisticly" than many of the Walbro's I have. Took one apart to compare to a (genuine) Walbro WT and could not see any difference in quality or workmanship, but maybe I am missing something?
IMO the failure rate is the same as a Walbro and if you are one of the unlucky 3% of users, any new carb (Walbro, EME or HLIC) will give the engine a new lease on life.

For the price that's a pretty compelling option. Thanks.................

Originally Posted by mighty9

Guys its super easy to swap the eme choke shaft into the walbro . Like 5 minutes tops.

Not sure if you have posted it before but I would love the instructions how to swap the choke shaft.

Thanks

DaleD

http://www.thecubden.org/carb/carbchoke.html
Its pretty simple just remove the brass choke blade screw and pull the shaft out making sure you dont loose the ball and spring on the detent side.Also the eme carb parts fit the walbro as its just a walbro copy.

Originally Posted by FoamieAirfarce

For the price that's a pretty compelling option. Thanks.................

All the rcgf carbs i have had worked well out of the box so that does look like good option iF the venturi size is correct.

Originally Posted by mighty9

http://www.thecubden.org/carb/carbchoke.html
Its pretty simple just remove the brass choke blade screw and pull the shaft out making sure you dont loose the ball and spring on the detent side.Also the eme carb parts fit the walbro as its just a walbro copy.

And if you lose the ball and spring, just make a trip to the local lawnmower repair shop. They should be able to hook you up.

Originally Posted by ericb

And if you lose the ball and spring, just make a trip to the local lawnmower repair shop. They should be able to hook you up.

This is true but for me the nearest mower shop is 100 miles away so I spent 20 minutes on my belly looking for mine

The RCGF carb used on the 20cc beam mount engine has a 13.5mm Venturi, it will fit anything in the 20cc - 50cc engines.

Originally Posted by DaleD

Raptor, have you been able to address your engine running issue? Regarding a replacement carb, ideally you want a carb with an 11-13 mm venturi.

I have over half gallon of fuel mixed with Redline at 32:1 through my engine now . I have it tuned for peak RPM of around 6500, idle of 1700 and smoth transition from idle to WOT on a Hawk 20x8 prop. I have noticed the same issue where when at idle the engine will surge to around 2800 rpm. If I advance throttle to max and come back down the engine goes back to idle then it surges again.

It has been suggested by someone who I respect highly that I may have a lean condition or there maybe an air leak somewhere. I am almost certain the engine isn't running lean so I was thinking to check the reads and fuel lines for fit. Having read FoamieAirfarce's post above I am thinking I should just bite the bullet and change the carb. Its maybe ironic that because the engine is supplied with an EMAS carb I bought a WT 759 just in case, only issue is that it has an automatic choke installed. Guess I could grind off the arm and modify.

DaleD

Subsequent to the post above, I went through just about every angle of trouble shooting that can be performed on a gas engine. FoamieAirface DLE 20 thread was a guide, I went through every possible cause of the surging issue but nothing seem to address the issue. The last thing I did was to replace the fuel tank which was introducing a significant amount of air in the fuel inlet line. This too failed to address the issue.

Well, I had access to a WT-759 but it was supplied to the auto choke set up but I was way too lazy to rework my carb and choke linkages. I therefore was particularly appreciative of Mighty9's post about the choke shaft swap. The shaft swap was performed this morning and in no time the carb was replaced. My EME35 is now running GREAT. After weeks of frustration following failed troubleshooting attempts I am now looking forward to maidening the EF 78" Extra 300.

I am really happy with the contribution made by FG members as this helped me to resolve my issue.

DaleD

Originally Posted by DaleD

Subsequent to the post above, I went through just about every angle of trouble shooting that can be performed on a gas engine. FoamieAirface DLE 20 thread was a guide, I went through every possible cause of the surging issue but nothing seem to address the issue. The last thing I did was to replace the fuel tank which was introducing a significant amount of air in the fuel inlet line. This too failed to address the issue.

Well, I had access to a WT-759 but it was supplied to the auto choke set up but I was way too lazy to rework my carb and choke linkages. I therefore was particularly appreciative of Mighty9's post about the choke shaft swap. The shaft swap was performed this morning and in no time the carb was replaced. My EME35 is now running GREAT. After weeks of frustration following failed troubleshooting attempts I am now looking forward to maidening the EF 78" Extra 300.

I am really happy with the contribution made by FG members as this helped me to resolve my issue.

DaleD

That is great to hear. I was able to put a couple of flights on my EF Extra tonight and had a blast. Love the EME35 on it.

Originally Posted by DaleD

The shaft swap was performed this morning and in no time the carb was replaced. My EME35 is now running GREAT. After weeks of frustration following failed troubleshooting attempts

Awesome Dale.

Well, for the both of us, at least we learned a lot about these carbs and the knowledge gained will serve us going forward.

Suffice for all that may be reading the thread, if you source an engine, DLE, DL, EME etc., etc., etc., with one of these 'in house' Walbro carb copies and you don't get satisfactory performance by the cursory and accepted tuning methods ( and there really is no trick to tuning one of these gassers running to reliability, you really just need to get 'ball park' for break-in) send it back under warranty or consider a swap for a genuine OEM manufactured part.

As I stated before here, on paper, there is nothing wrong with the engineering of the copy carbs, they are after all reverse engineered Walbro, Zama, and possibly Stihl products, but the manufacturing process and lack of testing for quality assurance leaves the deal a crap shoot. As testified here there are MANY modelers who are enjoying good performance from the copies but a good % suffering along with errant operation. The neophyte, as I had, will presume they are doing something wrong and plod along whipping the dead horse. As Dale mentioned, it's frustrating to a point of killing motivation in the pursuit. And too, pressing a malfunctioning engine into service and the air could put the whole investment into jeopardy.

Anyhoo Dale, just a theory on my part and FYI having done all the troubleshooting on that 20, taking into consideration what I've learned from the membership and threads here on FG I would imagine the surging is associated with the low needle idling and off idle passages and orifices that can be seen inside the throttle throat and lie below the Welch plug on the carb fuel pump side. That part of the milling process must be critical and if it's off by any slight tolerance? = poor low speed fuel metering. Maybe.....................

Good luck on the maiden, keep us posted regarding your 35.

Doug

Here is a very short video of my smooth running EME35 . I took her out today just for the heck of it and to satisfy myself that the experience yesterday wasn't a fluke. Videography definitely isn't my calling, but you get the picture .

Thanks for all the encouragement and I will definitely keep you posted on the maiden .

DaleD

EME35 + 20x8 Prop (2 min 13 sec)