enjoyed the read on your site.from go karting to rc, still like 2 cycles lol

Originally Posted by KIM

enjoyed the read on your site.from go karting to rc, still like 2 cycles lol

Thanks, Kim. There's always more coming, and room for improvement.

Originally Posted by KrisW

Bomberbill. . .

There is only one 50cc weedie.chanisaw engine that I would consider converting, that being the Echo 50cc chainsaw shorblock, Part Number SB1080 available from several Echo parts suppliers for about $210 USD or so, as a complete unit.

Hi Kris,

I'm very interested in some more info on converting the echo 50cc engine over to air. I kind of like the idea of it, not only to save some money, but it would be an extra cool factor to say that the motor is from a chain saw.

I did some checking around. Brillelli customs sells the carb intak (27.00), and an EI hub and timeing ring(30.00). For this motor. http://brillellicustoms.com/conversionpartspg2.html

My main qustion; How hard would it be to time it out correctly?
Oh, And you was spot on on the priceing for the motor, 199.50 + tax.

Thanks.
Don

Originally Posted by donoisten

Hi Kris,

I'm very interested in some more info on converting the echo 50cc engine over to air. I kind of like the idea of it, not only to save some money, but it would be an extra cool factor to say that the motor is from a chain saw.

I did some checking around. Brillelli customs sells the carb intak (27.00), and an EI hub and timeing ring(30.00). For this motor. http://brillellicustoms.com/conversionpartspg2.html

My main qustion; How hard would it be to time it out correctly?
Oh, And you was spot on on the priceing for the motor, 199.50 + tax.

Thanks.
Don

The kits from Brilleli work very well. For the hub, you simply screw it in place, using red thread locker. On my engines, I fill the cylinder with oil to hydro-lock the engine so it cannot rotate, then bear down on the hub very hard to tighten it. Warming the hub first in boiling water will make it a bit more snug when it cools down on the crankshaft taper and threads. Since the direction of rotation for the engine will TIGHTEN the hub, the chances of it coming loose are literally zero.

The bolt for the hub on the Brilleli kit can be exchanged for a stud if you like, using the proper sized threaded rod.. BME used an 8x1.25 mm stud, that was 75 mm long, and that is what I use when I assemble one off the 50's, along with a nut and hardened steel washer to prevent damage to the aluminum prop washer. I prefer using the stub because you are not constantly running against the threads in the aluminum hub, so there is less chance of damaging them.

The carburetor adapter looks like a copy of the one BME used as well. For a carburetor, use the Walbro wt-201b carburetor. and modify the throttle shaft as necessary.

If you lack a proper exhaust stack, a very nice, and quiet, exhaust system can be made by using the 3w/Pefa "S" canister, coupler, and BME header that are available from Aircraft International. Set the header length at about 4-6" and it will run great for you, and be very quiet.

Ignitions for the 50 can be had from CH. Get the RCExcel ignition for a single, and I recommend the 14mm-10mm spark plug adapter, then use a CM-6 plug with the appropriate ignition. A bracket for the pickup is as simple as a piece of flat aluminum with a hole in it, and attached to the crankcase with a screw, glue the Hall Effect pickup to the bracket using JB Weld, then position the timing ring on the hub to about 28 degrees BTDC for initial timing if you use the CH or RCExcel ignitions.

Props. . 22-8 menz, 22A Vess, or 22-10 Menz are all good choices, depending on what you are flying. I've run the 18-16 and 20-16 Menz props for a fast 80" delta I have, and the plane just screams along at about 130-150 mph. Witht he Menz 22-8 and canister exhaust, you can expect 7200+ rpm from the engine once it is broken in.

Hope this helps.