Looking to buy a 30cc gas engine. Was looking for a good used DLE and came across this engine.
AGM 30 made in London. Sure as hell looks like a DLE 30 knockoff. It's got a walbro card and the specs are the same as the DLE. My question is... has anyone heard of this engine and if so what throught do you have. Thanks

so where did you get made in London? that is just another China copy of a China copy. You can rent those to see if you like it

yes, try it before buy , this is what AGM can do . offer more option for end user .

Originally Posted by cotman007

Looking to buy a 30cc gas engine. Was looking for a good used DLE and came across this engine.
AGM 30 made in London. Sure as hell looks like a DLE 30 knockoff. It's got a walbro card and the specs are the same as the DLE. My question is... has anyone heard of this engine and if so what throught do you have. Thanks

It is probably made from the same off the shelf components as many other 30cc "copies" from that country. It probably runs fine as the person behind them has been in the RC engine supply chain for quite a while.

Why don't you get one and let us know how it is?
With the try before you buy option, it will not cost much to do so.

I bought one, but I haven't done anything with it yet. I like the stronger more robust mounting tabs on the engine. Many of the other engines weaken the mounting tabs a lot by milling in countersunk holes to hide the screws better. But the larger holes tend to lead to stress risers forming and tabs breaking off. So the AGM 30 is looking really good so far.

The muffler mounting screw spacing is a more common size thus a lot of different mufflers ouight to fit it OK.
It also uses a auto release on the choke, so that may or may not annoy some people.

AGM 30cc engine mounting tabs




Another engine's mounting tabs, more thin and larger counter sunk holes leave the mounting tabs more fragile.

Start it up. Will a dle single bolt conversion work on it. I don't know why more 30 cc companies don't go single bolt.
A single bolt prop hub would be a plus over the dle

There is a good possibility that a DLE 30 single bolt adapter might fit. But the drive hub doesn't have any knurling or ridges for gripping the propeller though. So one would need to do something about that. I don't have one so I cannot confirm that it will work though.

It does look like it. the way a couple of single bolt adaptors work is the long shaft nut is removed, cut down to just the nut portion, and reinstalled. Then a hub with a prop bolt protruding from it, bolts to the original prop hub using 4 counter sunk bolts.
This link has a good picture.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...RCG_DLE30.html

Yeah that may work OK. I'll have to order one to see how it works and fits etc. As for the nut, that is just a standard metric nut, so getting one at the local ACE Hardware store is not a problem. It is just the hassle of driving over the the store to get a nut or two. Of course one could buy it online too. I would expect it to be a M8 or M10 nut. I forget if they might use a fine thread or not though.

Milton come up with great idea about throttle arm . see this link
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...-engine-7.html

We have used Dubro or Carl Goldberg nose wheel steering arms on Walbro carbs for years now.
It is a good idea to mention these again as people forget about them or newer people don't know about it.

Here is a example of a steering arm used as a throttle arm on one of my gas engines.

I have a friend getting ready to mount this engine. He called me wanting to know the thread size of the stand offs. I told him it was probably 10-32. Could some one verify this. I also told him to just drill through and run a 10-32 x3.5" hex bolt straight through the fire wall in to a blind nut and then lock it with nylok hex nut.

The AGM engine uses all metric screws. The standoff screws are M5 or 5mm size metric screws. The standoffs are not drilled all the way through, the screws go in both ends. I would use washers and lockwashers and maybe even non-permanent thread locker too.
But drilling 10x32 size holes in the firewall would likely work fine. I would use large diameter washers on both sides of the firewall to spread out the clamping pressure more. I prefer using a aluminum sheet about .065 to .1 inch thick as a backplate to the standoffs to more evenly spread the stress between the mounting tabs on the engine. Plywood being organic will compress slightly differently at the different locations and its possible for the standoff spacers to be slightly different lengths then. Thus putting strain on the engine's mounting tabs.

Another choice for a Throttle arm is this

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXE517

They give an offset that is helpful on some installations.

Using these or the steering arms (I have tried both on various engines and they work well) will usually negate the latching choke unless you have room to fit the latch plate back over the shaft (Some carbs allow this, some don't). If that happens, you may wish to modify the choke by adding the ball detent mechanism as used on the "non latching" chokes.

Originally Posted by earlwb

The AGM engine uses all metric screws. The standoff screws are M4 or 4mm size metric screws. The standoffs are not drilled all the way through, the screws go in both ends. I would use washers and lockwashers and maybe even non-permanent thread locker too.
But drilling 10x32 size holes in the firewall would likely work fine. I would use large diameter washers on both sides of the firewall to spread out the clamping pressure more. I prefer using a aluminum sheet about .065 to .1 inch thick as a backplate to the standoffs to more evenly spread the stress between the mounting tabs on the engine. Plywood being organic will compress slightly differently at the different locations and its possible for the standoff spacers to be slightly different lengths then. Thus putting strain on the engine's mounting tabs.

Thanks Earl.

I went over it with him and found that the stand offs are like the DLE. His problem was that 3 of the four stand offs were not bottom tapped and thread quality was suspect. The supplied bolts where sloppy fit in the threads. We are boring the stand offs and using 10x32 bolts as I described.