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Old 04-30-2012, 08:20 AM   #16
Jaketab
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GMD,

I only use this method on large props - 30" or larger. Screws are #2 buttonhead 3/16" length. I use a 1/16" drill to start a pilot hole. Make sure you don't drill near the prop bolt hole. Before driving the screw, a use drop of thin CA. Any void created by the screw with be stronger with the CA and screw in place. When using this method, you can spread the screws over a larger area on the hub to avoid a weight mass on just one location.

On another prop I balanced, I used washers for added weight. This reduced the # of screws needed. Don't know of any reason to remove the screws when the prop is balanced. If you do remove them, just fill with epoxy/microballons.

Jaketab.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:13 AM   #17
racer rob
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Hey Capt. Roll I like that idea with the lead tape,i am going to order me some of that thanks for the idea


Rob
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:09 PM   #18
Ohio AV8TOR
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Quote: Originally Posted by racer rob
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Hey Capt. Roll I like that idea with the lead tape,i am going to order me some of that thanks for the idea


Rob
Whats nice about using the lead tape is the fact that it is an adhesive and with the slight curl from the wrap of the roll you can just lightly tack it on in case you need to re-position. I just did a 3.5" carbon spinner tonight for my 50cc Extra and you can spot them on the outside until you get it balanced and then transfer them to the inside.
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:27 PM   #19
ant
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You can get it at Dick's Sporting Goods. Think I'm going to try it.

http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/pr...ductId=3070364

http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/pr...uctId=12798943
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:24 PM   #20
Ohio AV8TOR
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Golfsmith as well

http://www.golfsmith.com/search?Ntt=lead+tape

We use the 1/2" at work but that 1" could come in handy.
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