Hi guys,

Some of you have had the opportunity to fly some of 3DH's planes. For those who have, you know how rugged, well built, affordable, and great flying their airplanes are. This was especially true with the 47" SHP that IMHO is one of the standard bearer in the 3S 2100 market.

Well, not one to rest on past accomplishment, 3DHobbyshop and Scott Stoops went on to collaborate on the 55" Extra 300 SHP. Their goal was to create the best 40e size electric aircraft on the market: the lightest, best 3D/precision, coupling free, and rock free harrier plane out there. I was fortunate enough to be able to fly the protos. All I can say is that they have indeed accomplish that lofty goal.

They are currently taking preorders on this, and also along with the combo on the power system. The power system itself is another new monster from Extreme Flight. Good to 1500 watts, it can bring this power loading to 300 WATTS/LBS!!

Specs:
3DH EXTRA

Wingspan: 55 inches
Wing Area: 640 square inches
Weight: 4.5-5.5 lbs.
Motor: Torque revolution 4014-570
ESC: Airboss Elite 80A (with a switching BEC)
Servos: Hitec HS 225MG or 5245MG

VIDEO
New VIDEO 3DH 55" SHP - Video #4
3DH 55" Extra 300 SHP - VIDEO #3
3DH 55" SHP VIDEO - Mr. Peanut
3DH 55" SHP VIDEO #2
55" 3DH Extra 300 SHP (Scott Stoops)
55" SHP Video - BoneDoc
3DHS 55" SHP (Tim)
55" SHP (Mr. Peanut)




.... well enough rant, let the build thread begin .

That's a nice looking plane!

I was fortunate enough to have Ben airship me one of the production planes right as the rest of them are leaving by boat to get a build thread started.

The packaged came in tripple boxed, just like all 3DH planes. This thing will withstand abuses by the men in brown for sure (short of the truck backing in on the plane itself ).

Everything is nicely bagged and properly placed.

Taking the parts from the plastics and lining them up. Everything is straight and true, no wrinkles noted on the covering. Life is good .

Here's some innovative tidbits:

1. The wheel pants are notched, so you don't have to screw it in. Just tighten it, and that's IT.

2. The CA hinges are preglued on one side already, so all you have to do is put it in, and glue!!

3. There's a latch to hold the canopy in place (this on top of the magnet that it already has). This canopy ain't coming apart for sure.

4. There's a string readily placed for you so you don't have to struggle trying to weave your servo extension through.

Going a step beyond what is necessary, the hardware package for the 55" SHP is top notch. Even to the most discriminating modelers out there, nothing needs to be replaced. From phenolic horns perfectly sized to have its hole centered on the hinge line, to the ball link control horns, as well as the tail wheel, axles, and the SUPER STRONG (and light) CF wing tube.

Nice looking plane.

ROCK IT DOC!

Thanks Max.

Just to wet your appetite, here's a short clip of Scott himself flying his 55" SHP.

55" 3DH Extra 300 SHP

Right On Josh! Thanks for the build thread. This one really looks like a winner.

Thanks. Wait till you guys get your own. It'll take huckin' to a whole new level. .

I wont' rehash a whole build thread because this plane goes together easily, and ZERO modification is required. One thing you will appreciate about 3DH's kits is the fact that Ben is a fellow hucker (a good one at that), and he totally hucks to the max. With that in mind, he designs his plane to be able to withstand to his punishing level of hucking, along with the ability to bounce back from minor bumps we all get when we're hucking it hard.

Ailerons:
Pretty simple here. I just line it up the tips, make sure that there's about a 2 mm gap that's even throughout, and then pour CA. I usually so 2-3 thin soaks with CA to make sure that it soaks all the way through. Haven't had any of my ailerons pull out yet .

Control Horn and Servo Installation

As you can see on the second pic. The hole line up EXACTLY over the hinge line. I personally just use thin + med CA on this one though the recommendation calls for epoxy. FWIW, Ben does the same also, and we haven't had failures with that yet. A properly CA'd joint is a a very strong one.

Next, I make an opening in the covering and pull the string out. It's just lightly glued so you don't have to worry about yanking off the servo tray . If you notice, I make my opening slightly smaller than the hole, and then make diagonal cuts to the corner. This way, when I insert the servo, the covering will get pushed down, preventing me from having an uncovered surface. Inconsequential to the whole build, but a nice touch .

After that, I screw the rods halfway through, and eyeball to the best of my ability the point at which I'm going to need to bend the wire. Please keep in mind that the the servo arm needs to be PARALLEL TO THE HINGE LINE (made that mistake before .

On the picture of the finished work, you can see that I only put 2 screws on. I think it's fine for electrics, though you can put all four just for peace of mind (not a bad idea given how hard this plane will fly).

H Stabilizer

Once you remove part of the covering, you'll notice that the sleeve for the H-Stab is actually reinforced with a sheet of balsa... neato .

First I remove only a part of the covering. Then with the benefit of being able to see it from the other side, I just slide the blade across, making perfect cuts without scoring the balsa. I don't bother removing the covering on the stab itself. It's completely unnecessary IMHO.

Then I slide the stab in place, and I measure each side, both the TE as well as the LE. When they're equidistant (Left versus Right) on BOTH TE and LE, then I know that I'm square. At that time, I wick a tiny ammount at the TE and LE. Just as a final precaution, I then stand the fuse vertically and do my "eyeball" test. It should make a "+" looking cross if you draw the imaginary line through the center of the fuse. When even on the eyeball test it looks perfect, then I liberally flow thin CA all over the joint from the top and bottom.

Rudder / Elevator

The only thing worth mentioning here is that you keep your gaps correctly, and before you flow the CA, make sure you're happy about the throw you're getting. I can tell you, that with the proper gap, the elevator will hit the ground on full down. Now that's what I call AUTHORITY .

Tail Wheel
If you want to get the wire flush, you'd just have to bend it a little. That's about all that needs to be done.