Hi Bobby The fires missed us, as close as 6 miles, we could smell them though, lucky I guess. Im doing fine, thanks
Later
Jack

Thanks for the info, here's the website where I reading about the Outdoor Oil. Bob seems to think there is a difference. The one that says 2-cycle on the front is impossable to find around here. Any ideas?
http://www.rcaerobats.net/GAS_ENGINE_INFO/oil_page.htm

Originally Posted by gulfvet

I have to order mine online

TC

Gulfvet from what site do you order it?
Thanks
Troy

Originally Posted by jack strickland

Dont know what you fellows are paying for the pennz "air cooled", however you can get the superior Mercury Quicksilver at Wal Mart for about $20 a gallon, and it is rated api-tc for air cooled engines. Have never fouled a plug, or scuffed a piston in 30 years of flying giants. This info has been stated on here many times, try it, you will be happy you did.

I also use Quicksilver. Previously I used Amsoil 100:1 for many years and am happy I made the switch. Academy sells Quicksilver for $17.99 regular price and sometimes cheaper when they have a sale.

Originally Posted by funflyr

Gulfvet from what site do you order it?
Thanks
Troy

http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/penaircool2c.html

Here is an excerpt from a post on the Profile Brotherhood site by fuel expert Brian "Fuelman" Cooper of Cooper Fuels. He has (had) a wonderful synthetic oil that he sold in his product line. He mentions a "Quality Synthetic" oil in the post below, so (my opinion) if the FuelMan speaks, folks should listen:

Most of the gasser flyers have been brainwashed that their is some special, magical break-in method and oil that MUST be used in order for their engine to acheive its optimal performance.....

Here's my break in method: Fuel-it, Flip-it, Fly-it.....in that order.

You will achieve a superior ring to cylinder fit with a quality synthetic, being used right from the start. It will take a little longer to achieve maximum compression, but who cares. You fly it like you would normally after the first couple of tanks and insure it is a bit on the rich side. I would make sure that the oil is blended at the ratio the engine manufacturer recommends for the first gallon. But thats it, fly it.

By loading and unloading the engine and varying the throttle settings, the ring will seat perfectly every time. Load it and unload it by doing some very big loops or a bunch of cuban eights. On the upline, you are compression loading the engine which exerts greater force on the ring pushing against the cylinder wall which causes it to seat. While this is happening, the ring and cylinder wall friction (before its seated) will cause very high localized heat at the ring. It is because of this that you want a very high quality lube so the oil does not cook and carbon up the ring land, or overheat the ring.

This is the reason engines seat the rings so fast in lawn boy oil, the oil breaks down and burns up at the ring to wall interface, leaving little lubricant to relieve the friction. That is why they want you to baby the engine when breaking it in on lawn boy, to minimize the pressure and heat at the ring during the first critical few runs.

Use a synthetic like mine (oh, wait, there are no others like mine...) and fly it like you stole it, just do it a little richer for the first gallon or two. Your engine will thank you several years down the road.

If you really want to see what this oil can do, find an atv or wet bike that is two stroke oil injected with RAV exhaust valves that like to stick from carbon build up. Dump the oil tank and replace with this oil and go run the living snot out of that thing for a quart of oil or so, then take the RAV valve apart and look at how clean it slippery it is.

Bill,
I'm a firm believer that you should run the oil mixture at whatever the engine manufacturer suggests up to around 50:1. If it recommends 50:1 then use it, if it recommends a little less, then use that. The additional oil in the fuel if it is a rich ratio will not carbon anything up with this oil, it will remain clean burinng.
If you want to go to 50:1 after a gallon, I see no problems with doing that, obviously the tune will need a slight tweek.

If performance is an issue, thinking that leaner oil mixes will give more power. I've tested that beyond any reasonable amount. There is no power to be had in a model engine when going from 40:1 to 50:1.

Link to the thread, if anyone is interested: http://www.theprofilebrotherhood.com...ic.php?t=21333

Jon

Sounds like he knows what he's talkin' about.

Thank you for this info. it has helped!!

Found a oil called redline made by zenoah has anyone used it or the echo brand ??

Good oil

I differ in opinion somewhat with the ProBro author. I don't believe in running rich since is makes a gasser run beneath it's normal temp operating range and delays the final set of the cast materials. Aside from that I agree with him.

Redline Racing Oil is made in Richmond, CA. I don't know of any affiliation with Zenoah. It's a good enough oil that I've been using it in my engines for the last 5 years. I've used Echo when the Redline wasn't available, along with a couple of Stihl products. You won't get hurt with any of them

Originally Posted by funflyr

Anyone know of a source on-line for Penzoil Air Cooled 2-cycle oil. I have looked everywhere locally and can't find any. I can find the Penzoil labeled as Outdoor, but not the original 2 cycle oil.

Advanced Auto Parts if you have them locally. $7.29 for 48 oz. $2.09 for 8 oz bottle. The 48 ounce bottle has no gauge for measuring so I keep an 8 ounce bottle around to pour into and then into gas can.

A simple measuring cup with graduations in ounces works well if nothing better is available. Just wash it well before you give it back to the wife.....

Originally Posted by HUNTERNFLA

Found a oil called redline made by zenoah has anyone used it or the echo brand ??

I am using redline racing oil, its great stuff no problems so far.

So I just read this entire post. I read and hear a bunch of people talk about proper operating temp. I read about egt's and what should be expected concerning egt's and that 400 degrees eperating is not good. I did not see anywhere what operating temp of the engine should be when you land the plane check it. Can anyone tell me that? I have checked several engines at the field and found anything from 180 on a new extremely fat engine to 300 on an engine that seems to be running slightly lean to me. I find that temp from the jug is typically 30-50 degrees less than the exhaust mounting flange. My question is what temp should you see when an engine is tuned proper and the cowl is vented properly and where?
Thanks for the info and laughs.
Matt