flyinryon,

Thanks for your response!

I received a reply from PowerBox Systems this morning so as they suggested I was rechecking my transmitter settings with the plane when my receiver battery charge level got too low. When this happened, the red Ignition LED went out. This was only about a minute after turning it on, so I am cycle charging it now. Both my batteries are new 2700 NiMH and I did cycle charge the ignition battery before installing it. I don't remember if I did the same for the receiver battery or not. The low voltage receiver battery could have been the issue yesterday. I'll also recheck the ignition battery charge as you suggest.

Thanks again for the help!

Joe

Cycle charged receiver battery (7 cycles) and topped off ignition battery, SUCCESS! Engine started easily as per directions and ran about 30 minutes on a 12 Oz tank on my test stand, max RPM briefly was 7400 and min was about 1700 on a 16x8 prop.

Thanks flyinryon!

One more note on the charging issue. These are both new batteries and I neglected to slow charge them for 24 hours. Doing that now. Live and learn.

Originally Posted by jmatusic

While breaking in a DLE20, I am experiencing the following;
Turn on receiver, turn on ignition, get red LED ON, start the engine, it runs a few seconds, stops either because of fuel starvation or lack of space around the intake (troubleshooting the cause now), when the engine stops, the red LED is OFF without changing my kill switch position on the transmitter. I cycle the kill switch, red LED back ON, start the engine again and experience the same results. My question is,,,,should the red LED be turning itself OFF when the engine quits? I think I may have a bad SparkSwitch, may be getting noise from the Ignition that turns off the SparkSwitch as I have them located pretty close together,,,,,any other causes anyone can think of? Batteries fully charged, new fuel, 32% mix,

The engine failing to continue running could be lots of things and I'll eliminate them one at a time tomorrow. What really concerns me is the red LED going out everytime the engine stops (means the ignition is turned off). Why would I lose power to the ignition without changing the kill switch on the transmitter?

Take the switch out of the equation and see what happens.

Also make sure you dont have that mix inabled that changes the channels output when the throttle is elevated.

Could someone post a picture on the installation for the LED?

Thanks in advance and happy landings.

Superrmario, Thanks for the input. Taking out the switch was my next move after charging the batteries. I'm not experienced enough yet to play with mixes other than rudder/aileron, but good suggestion.

g mkoch, Yeah, I had the same question. I replaced the OS91 4 stroke in an older Piper Pacer I picked up used (beautiful plane with 74.5 inch WS) with a DLE20. I put the red LED between the windscreen and the instrument panel. Drilled a hole just large enough to feed the connector end first through the hole and connect it to the Spark Switch through an extension. Then I fit the small plastic piece around the LED bulb and pushed the assembly into the ring. The ring is slightly larger than the hole I made so it covers the hole nicely after gluing the ring to the surface of the plane. There is enough friction between the bulb and it's small keeper and the ring to keep the bulb from falling out of the plastic pieces. If you still need a picture, I'd be glad to take one however all you'll see is the glued in LED with the ring around it.

Here is what I did with the LED on my Evo 45cc gasser ignition...go to the hardware store (take the LED with you) and get a rubber grommet that provides for an interference fit between the bulb and the grommet. Drill an approprite sized hole in the fuselage, then install the grommet. Now, install your LED from the inside of the fuselage. Once installed, epoxy a wire retainer insidethe fuselage to support the LED leads. Install the LED leads into the wire keeper nad you are done. Like Jmatusic stated, there will be enough interference fit between the LED and the rubber grommet to keep it into place. Also, if you opt to use this method, you can readily see the LED from outside the aircraft in flight

Originally Posted by jmatusic

While breaking in a DLE20, I am experiencing the following;
Turn on receiver, turn on ignition, get red LED ON, start the engine, it runs a few seconds, stops either because of fuel starvation or lack of space around the intake (troubleshooting the cause now), when the engine stops, the red LED is OFF without changing my kill switch position on the transmitter. I cycle the kill switch, red LED back ON, start the engine again and experience the same results. My question is,,,,should the red LED be turning itself OFF when the engine quits? I think I may have a bad SparkSwitch, may be getting noise from the Ignition that turns off the SparkSwitch as I have them located pretty close together,,,,,any other causes anyone can think of? Batteries fully charged, new fuel, 32% mix,

The engine failing to continue running could be lots of things and I'll eliminate them one at a time tomorrow. What really concerns me is the red LED going out everytime the engine stops (means the ignition is turned off). Why would I lose power to the ignition without changing the kill switch on the transmitter?

Mine will shut off it goes into failsafe....sure it isnt getting some noise somewhere? As you said, if the red light goes out there is no power. dont feel like the lone strager getting that thing started for the first time. my 30 is raising heck with me too, tried for 40 minutes last night to fire it off. Carb just dont seem to want to pick up fuel and maintain it. (checked tank and lines) same sputter for a sec or two and stop that you are going thru. I found the old dynatron starter and am going to try it today. figger i can get a little more pumping action and charge for the first start. Hope it is not going to be a ongoing deal.One of the big ideas of switching to this was the "flip and fly" I've read the stock plugs are junk also. i will be installing a new CM6. I sure its just somthing I am doing in the initial set up. i'll report back my results.

Originally Posted by g_mkoch

Could someone post a picture on the installation for the LED?

Thanks in advance and happy landings.

Its pretty straight forward, Drill a hole, mount the LED and run it to the switch.

Not being a smart ass, but just being honest.

Johnber,

Here's my starting sequence;
Step 1. Choke on, Throttle full open, Ignition on
Step 2. Flip till the engine pops
Step 3. Choke off, High idle on throttle, flip to start, sometimes only a few flips, sometimes a dozen

My issue with the Spark Switch was a receiver battery which was too weak. After charging it and re-reading the engine manual from DLE, it started easily.

There is a DLE manual that I downloaded from Hobbico that differs from the DLE sheet that came with the new engine. Hobbico's sheet says in step 1 to open the throttle slightly from the idle position (DLE sheet says full open throttle).

Superrmario, as someone with limited experience mounting LEDs, I understand g mkoch's confusion related to the two pieces of plastic supplied with the LED. One (plastic grommet) obviously fits around the bulb, the other (ring) holds the bulb and the grommet assembly, but the issue is,,,,just exactly how do they mount into or on the plane? Friction, glue, etc? Nice description and pictures Smacka, thanks. My Pacer didn't offer room for me to fit the LED bulb first from the interior but did allow me to drop the connector and wire lead through the hole from the outside and "feel" for them with tweezers from the inside. Securing the wire lead would be a must as the friction hold on the bulb probably wouldn't be sufficient during flight maneuvers.

Nice job!!!!

Originally Posted by Smacka

Here is what I did with the LED on my Evo 45cc gasser ignition...go to the hardware store (take the LED with you) and get a rubber grommet that provides for an interference fit between the bulb and the grommet. Drill an approprite sized hole in the fuselage, then install the grommet. Now, install your LED from the inside of the fuselage. Once installed, epoxy a wire retainer insidethe fuselage to support the LED leads. Install the LED leads into the wire keeper nad you are done. Like Jmatusic stated, there will be enough interference fit between the LED and the rubber grommet to keep it into place. Also, if you opt to use this method, you can readily see the LED from outside the aircraft in flight

Originally Posted by Reza

Nice job!!!!

Thank you Reza and Jmatusic

Decided that I wanted something other than a low brightness RED LED for my ignition on indicator.
This took me about 5 minutes to create from a spare RGB LED and a servo extension.

Plugs right in just like the one for the Spark Switch or Smart Fly ignition kill units

Much better looking in person, but this video shows you what I think is pretty cool.
Its very bright. Good for those sunny days at the field where you can hardly see the normal Red led's.

http://vimeo.com/18613020

I got a question.
The spark box has a female imput to connect it to the igniton, but the ignition power imput is also a female connector do I just use a male-male extension? If someone could post pictures on how they connected everything would be very much appreciated.

cryhavoc, can you show how you wired the RGB LED? do you use a driver to make it switch colors? looks neat!