Originally Posted by ant

If you don't need a canister, don't even consider one. It's just more work,money and weight added.

That's what I'm thinking. I would like to sell it but I don't know what brand it is. What should I ask for the header can and coupling not knowing? It's new.

I am going to run a one battery two switch setup. with two leads to rx. I always just balance charge my A123's first charge of the day then fast charge after that. I will have to get a deans to jr adapter to do that. I have a picture of the can and header if my phone will just send it to my email I will post it and see if anyone has an idea of the brand.

Can

a couple of questions.

why two switches and one battery?

why do you need a deans/jr adaptor?


2" arms ought to be okay as you can always come in on the holes if need be. having said that, if it was my plane it would be 1.5 on the elevs and 1" on the ailerons.

I like redundant switches but am fine with one if its proven. the battery from tdrc has a universal lead and a deans so the adapter would let me run through two switches. Can one switch handle the load on a 50cc with ignition going through it as well. Is one lead to the rx sufficient for ignition(ibec) and the servos? Main reason I asked about the arms is tdrc doesnt have a 1.5" arm. May end up and just go with swb.

the overwhelming majority of guys I know with 50cc airplanes use a single switch and a single battery, and failures are extremely rare. my two cents is that if you are going to run two switches you may as well run two batteries. the weight penalty on a 50cc is insignificant, especially when you factor in the economics of a failure with a single system. lots of good arms out there, I use the H9 because they are less expensive than the SWB and a whole lot easier to put on. yes, one switch can easily handle the loads. once in a while I forget to turn on the other side of one my 100cc airplanes and I fly with a single LiFe powering the system including the IBEC. I use the heavy duty JR switches at 15 bucks a piece. Works just fine.

Sounds great. A friend of mine flies one switch on a 60cc Corvus so I should be good. Thats even more weight savings lol. Is 22 awg on the switch enough or do I need 18-20? Anybody have any ideas on that canister brand? If not would $75 shipped be too much to ask for can and header?

Go pick up a Fromeco Badger switch. They fail on if they ever do fail. I've been using Fromeco's switches for 7 years and absolutely love them. They are extremely popular around here and can more than handle the load you need, can charge through it, and other benefitslike battery share built into the wolverine.

Travis

I fly a Pilot yak 54 88" and I find 1.5" arms on elevator and Ail to be perfect for me. I had 1" on the Ail and found myself wanting a touch more authority in some situations.

A single 2500mah life ran threw a Ultra Ibec for rx and ignition nets me four 10 minute flights with buffer. I pop the canopy to charge since I charge my life at 10amps.

I would also recommend a quality switch. Miracle switches are the devil and should be used only for the fuel dot it provides. Grab a badger and forget about it.

I agree on the Gary Ward scheme Yak--I bought the Pilot 30cc version 3yrs ago because I loved the way it looked! Unfortunately only got 4-5 flights on it b4 losing it due to battery/kill switch issues

As far as arms go, I believe all Pilot kits include nice phenolic long arms to attach to your servo horn--my 30cc and 170cc Pilot kids did. I don't like using long arms attached to a plastic round servo horn, so TDRC has these nice aluminum ones to attach the Pilot phenolic arms to. http://www.taildraggerrc.com/cnc-alloy-servo-wheels/

Eganwp do you always unplug your switch when storing I know it pulls a tiny bit of current like 80 microamps or something? Cowboy I wasn't sure about the arms that come with the kit nice to know you are using them, I agree I wouldn't want them mounted to a plastic servo horn. This has been the first time I have looked much a taildraggerrc and I must say I like the selection they have gonna make a $150-$175 purchase from them and if all goes well they will have a new customer. Do you all buy the badger switch directly from fromeco or normally get them elsewhere? Thanks for all the help guys, Im one of those people that loses sleep over stuff like this and you all have been really helpful. Also I dont know that I would even put any graphics on that gary ward scheme other than maybe the pilot logo on the tail.

To be honest, I never ever unplugged my A123's in the past that were connected to a Wolvering/Badger, unless it was being stored for longer than two months or during the winter months. I usually just charged those up before flying. Now that I've gone HV with lipos though, I remove them at the end of the flying day and stick them in an ammo box with my other lipos due to safety. You wouldn't have to do this, but I do just because of the nature of lipo chemistry, not because they will discharge a tiny amount via the switch. I wouldn't worry about it, just leave them plugged in during the months you're flying the plane.

TDRC is great btw. He carries trustworthy proven products. I'm sure you can buy the Fromeco switches elsewhere, but I've always bought mine from Jeff @ rcaircraftcomponents.com He's a great guy to deal with, and also carries a ton of equipment for GS.

rcaircraftcomponents was exactly where i found them in stock at. Trying to get me a good list of items going so I am ready to order. Was going to get the taildragger servo arms but they dont have a 1.5" in futaba/savox spline. I can just get the 2" but not sure if it will fit in elevator without hitting. thanks

Just realized the servos are in the fuselage on the elevator so length isnt that big of a deal

WOW went to rcaircraftcomponents and they want over $15 to ship a $39 switch thats crazy!!!