Originally Posted by joebob2

Phil,

I've found that whatever I THINK my plane will weigh when I weigh everything separately, it ends up at least a pound heavier! Mine came in at about 17.5lbs and it floats like a kite filled with helium. Still has plenty of pullout with the DLE-55 / Xoar 23x8. I originally had two servos per aileron but removed one of them so that dropped the weight by about 5oz. If yours weighs less than 16lbs, you will never be able to land it without killing the engine!

Morning.
Ok. That should make it about 15.24 plus the weight of the prop and covering?
This is going to be interesting...

Originally Posted by Phil Griffin

Morning Roc.
I guess the main reason for using that would be to get more weight on the nose?
What all is involved in getting it to work?

It will add a few ozs up front and will shift the weight of the prop forward, so it will move your CG slightly forward to help in a tail heavy situation. To use the single bolt prop adaptor, you will need to remove the shaft that prop rides on. You can either grind it off or remove it and replace it with a nut. Once you have the prop shaft removed, you'll use the supplied bolts to mount the adaptor to the engine.

Thanks for filling that in for Phil , i would have but i was to lazy to type that before . I think i may use the one i have on the raffle plane im building .

Originally Posted by Phil Griffin

Morning Roc.
I guess the main reason for using that would be to get more weight on the nose?
What all is involved in getting it to work?

How about never having to drill the prop for that engine again....?

I did something stupid and broke my prop one day recently... was flying again in 2 minutes with a prop change.

I had the prop adapters designed and stocked one day about two years ago after Ralph Cunningham sent me one of the very first DLE 30's with his version of the single bolt. Now I have single bolt adapters that will fit the 50cc 4 bolt pattern, 30cc 4 bolt pattern and the 28cc (3W) 6 bolt pattern. They all are works of art and work flawless when properly installed.

Not having to drill props is an attractive idea. Not sure if I want to grind on my engine to be able to do this or not though. I'll have to think on that one. I guess balance will be the deciding factor. I'll see how that is shortly.

+1 on the single bolt man. I pull my prop every time I put mine in the truck so it doesn't hit the tail gate. I'm not really one to break a prop but even though I'm not I still use the adapter all the time

Phil you just have take a wrench and take off the alignment pin. after that just put a new nut on it and bolt on your adapter.

Originally Posted by Colton

+1 on the single bolt man. I pull my prop every time I put mine in the truck so it doesn't hit the tail gate. I'm not really one to break a prop but even though I'm not I still use the adapter all the time

Phil you just have take a wrench and take off the alignment pin. after that just put a new nut on it and bolt on your adapter.

Tks Colton. I may give that a try..

Originally Posted by Phil Griffin

Not having to drill props is an attractive idea. Not sure if I want to grind on my engine to be able to do this or not though. I'll have to think on that one. I guess balance will be the deciding factor. I'll see how that is shortly.

No grinding is necessary. The best time to do the conversion is when the muffler is off.

You put a rag in the exhaust port, get a deep socket and break the nut loose... take it down to your local supplier and get a nut and washer to replace (grinding is when you dont want to unbolt prop adapter...)

The only engine that requires grinding is the 30cc because the hub is so small that you cannot get a deep socket in the recess to take off the prop shaft...

But who am I, I liked the dual 5200's (NICAD are best) and two gallon gas tank for your round the world trip

Lol.. Oh boy, I'll never live that down will I.
Thanks Richard for the detailed instructions. That's exactly what I needed.

Thanks for letting me have fun!!

I am building titanum fuel tanks into my wings with an auto-pilot so when I get tired of flying it will fly itself until I get ready to fly again.

That is why it is taking me so long to finish mine!

Hey! I was gonna do that...

Originally Posted by WrongWayRC

No grinding is necessary. The best time to do the conversion is when the muffler is off.

You put a rag in the exhaust port, get a deep socket and break the nut loose... take it down to your local supplier and get a nut and washer to replace (grinding is when you dont want to unbolt prop adapter...)

The only engine that requires grinding is the 30cc because the hub is so small that you cannot get a deep socket in the recess to take off the prop shaft...

But who am I, I liked the dual 5200's (NICAD are best) and two gallon gas tank for your round the world trip

Stupid question time:
1- Does the shaft loosen counterclockwise.
2- How do you keep the rest of the shaft from turning while you're loosening the short part.

Yes and..
Thats what the rag is for. You pt it in the exaust port to keep the piston from going up and it lets pop that shaft right off

Well duh... LOL.. OK, thanks Colton.
Hey, how's the new job going? You run into Dan yet?