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Depends on how each individual elevator comes out, but it's not uncommon to have to open up the slot a little to get it all in there. Brian is correct - as always. Lookin' good Phil.
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United States, OH, Berlin Heights
Joined Jul 2006
5,961 Posts
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Phil,mine was the same way after the tristock was glued to the elev.
sense i rounded the corners of the counter balance on the elev. i just sanded a little more off the corners till it had enough clearence to slide in.one other thing i made my counter balance out of solid balsa because i have broken more than one of them doing Blenders. shouldn't be long till we see the finish product now. always like looking at a plane naked,i almost did mine in trasparent red. |
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Just a word of caution here - WWRC did that on his but the opening in the fuse was a little snug where the joiner goes through. He had it in either a knife edge spin or a waterfall and the elevator joiner jammed with the elevator close to 90 degrees down. He got it loose before it hit the ground but it cost bim a pair of shorts. Just make sure you have plenty clearance in your fuse for the throws you want or or set your throws for the clearance you have. I enlarge the hole in the fuse on the ones I build and WWRC still found the limit.
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Hi Guys.. Lol...I was telling Brian last night in that configuration, it looked just like a giant air brake. What (high rate) throws will I be looking for in the real world? 40-50 degrees? Also, another question comes to mind. Visualize where the T.E. of the vertical stabilizer and the L.E. of the rudder meet. The T.E. of the stabilizer is what, 3/4" wide?. And the L.E. of the rudder is about 3/8"? (I'm not home, so can't measure). What are you guys doing to this transition? Is the width of the T.E of the stabilizer sanded down to more closely match that of the L.E. of the rudder, or left alone? |
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Just a word of caution here - WWRC did that on his but the opening in the fuse was a little snug where the joiner goes through. He had it in either a knife edge spin or a waterfall and the elevator joiner jammed with the elevator close to 90 degrees down. He got it loose before it hit the ground but it cost bim a pair of shorts. Just make sure you have plenty clearance in your fuse for the throws you want or or set your throws for the clearance you have. I enlarge the hole in the fuse on the ones I build and WWRC still found the limit.
We probably need to make a mental note of this Brian. ;-) |
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I think you will be good with all that throw.you need to do that with the ali but have them go the. opposite directions on a mix .when the hit a switch the plane will stop .i think it would look cool. especially on a down line.
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United States, OH, Berlin Heights
Joined Jul 2006
5,961 Posts
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Phil,you have to sand down(blend in) the trailing edge of the vrt.stab to match the leading edge of the rudder.
there is not a whole lot of meat left on the trailing edge of the vert. stab after blending it in to match the rudder.i just glued a piece in the vert. stab to make it a little stronger. use a sanding block to make it a little easier. |
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Thanks CG. That's what we'll do..
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Only if you'll do the maiden ;-)
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Phil i did not blend the vert stab to the rudder. i think it looks ok, and you can get away with these things on a profile! check out the pic, you can see the different thickness of the vert and rudder.
Dont over do the throws! it doesn't get better once you reach a certain point, and you will risk popping joints if you fly with high energy! My ele is at 55 deg, rudder is at 55 deg and aeilerons i cant remember if they are at 40 or 45 deg. I did go higher and lower with everything, and i think that's the happiest place, for my flying. i found if i went more throw on say the aeilerons, it didn't get more effective, but started to introduce some other unwanted traits into the picture. You must remember that these throws are extreme when you consider that profiles are pretty short coupled compared to most fatties. cheers! |
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