Oh cool... precut canopy works.... I am not a fan of cutting them. That's for sure.

Great thread! I want one of these so bad!!! One question, I know the fuel tank comes premounted, is there an area already made for a smoke tank?

Well, looks like I am getting one too.... Smoke tank? I am sure there's room somewhere.

Originally Posted by DR10044

Great thread! I want one of these so bad!!! One question, I know the fuel tank comes premounted, is there an area already made for a smoke tank?

The fuel tank sits on top of the wingtube, Under the wingtube there is a ply plate that goes all of the way up to the firewall that has been lightened up that would house a smoke tank for sure. I'll try and get a pic of it tonight. I have a 24 oz tank at home that I can try to put in there to give you an idea how much room you will have to work with. I would also think that if you are running std mufflers you could use the cannister area to mount a nice sized smoke tank.

Originally Posted by GremlinX

Well, looks like I am getting one too.... Smoke tank? I am sure there's room somewhere.

Well thats awesome! Glad you found one.

Back to where we left off...Batteries


I decided to go with a FROMECO power system for this 260. I have used FROMECO batteries in the past and have had great success. The people at FROMECO are great to work with.

Batteries:

I was contemplating between the Relion 2600's and the Relion 5200's for use for my flight controls. On one had this is a 35% plane. I could have probably used the 2600's with great results and saved a bit of weight. On the other hand I'm using the high torque JR8711 servos and I don't want to come up short on battery power/life. I'm a guy that plays it safer most of the time so I went with the Relion5200's with HD wire and deans connectors.

Regulators:

I went with three of the standard regulators with HD wire IN and two JR leads out.

Switches:

On my other planes I had used traditional JR HD Switches. Well FROMECO has some newer switches out now that are pretty nice. For my flight controls I got one of the Wolverine switches. The Wolverine handles two batteries by itself, two in and two out. I got it with the HD wire and Deans connectors to match up with everything else. This switch has battery sharing capabilities so your batteries drain much more evenly. Check it out, its pretty sweet. For my ignition switch I got the Badger switch. This is a failsafe switch and it fits in a standard switch cutout and is a very nice.

I wasn't quite sure that I wanted to use for a throttle servo. I looked around and found a small JR digi that I decided would work just fine. This is actually the throttle servo that I had on my older 33% H9 330s. Since this is a smaller case than a standard servo I was trying to think how to mount it. H9 already gace me a precut throttle servo hole on the bottom of the motor box. I decided that I didn't really want to cut another hole in the motor box so I jsut make a plate that my servo would fit on then I could screw that to the motor box still using the existing hole.

Dave, in post #35, bottom pics, the middle pic of the badger switch, what is that red led light in front of the switch ?

what is that red led light in front of the switch ?

Looks like the RED LED that comes with the Optical Kill switch from Smartfly.

....

One thing that was really neat about this 260 is that it already had room for cannisters. It was a drop-in fit. If you aren't going to use cannisters they give you this nice little cover plate to sel off that area. You are supposed to epoxy it in. Well I was using stock mufflers so I don't need that area right..........well kinda. If for any reason I would want to put smoke on this plane the cannister tunnel would be a great place for the smoke tank. The other thinking is that maybe someday down the road I might want to go quiet and put in cannisters. Well I decided to make the plate removable. I took some hardwood sticks and CA'd them to the sides and top of the cannister tunnel. Then I took 7 of the Micro Fasteners screws and attached the plate. I think it will work pretty good. We'll see if I need to change anything around.

Sleepy, you going to Tucson ? Is there anything that requires you to have anything like an opticle kill switch as to flying in the shootout ? was just wondering if its required to have a remote kill.

Originally Posted by SleepyC

Looks like the RED LED that comes with the Optical Kill switch from Smartfly.

*ding ding ding* Sleepy is correct. Smart-Fly FO Kill Switch.

Sleepy, you going to Tucson ?

Probably not... my work schedule won't allow me that much time off.


And I'm not 100% on the kill switch.
I know at Nall you just have to display that with the radio turned off, the plane will go to low idle.

Thanks

Odds and Ends.

I went with a manual choke. Pushrod connected through arm and poking through the cowl about an inch.

My cowl cut-out was a guestimate. I might open it up more if I see the need. I did not baffle the cowl at all. I wanted to see how it does straight out of the box.

For mounting the matchboxes in the wing I believe that it said to use double sided foam tape. Well I thought I'd take a little liberty here and build in some stands for the Matchboxes. Little legs of hardwood and popsicle sticks for the bar and they're mounted.

The FROMECO straps come in handy.

I found a cheap little fuel dot in one of my containers from previous projects and decided that it would work just perfectly.

I am using a Pete's 4" CF spinner with a NX 27x10 prop. Not sure if I'll keep that setup or what. I've been wanting to try a Vess prop so maybe now is my chance.