I looked at the cabane struts this morning and seem to be correct.what problems did they have with the ultimate?
And yes on the thrust angle.

was able to work on the checkmate for about an hour last night and an hr or so tonight. i expected the motor to be here by now but fed ex has pushed back the delivery day another day. so now the 28th the motor is supposed to be here. the servos for the throttle and rudder showed up today so im hoping to get some time to work on the pull pull wires tomorrow.
last night i primed and painted the firewall and box. tonight i installed the gas tank,exit dot and fuel dot.
1st i used the template for the DLE 55 and drilled the holes for the motor,scuffed up the motor box and firewall with sandpaper(150 grit) primed them with rustolium
black primer and painted them with rustolium HAMMERED paint. let dry overnight.

2nd is the fuel and exit dot. i marked the fuel dot in the center of cabanes on the left hand side .
pushed a pin threw the wall to make sure i had enough space as to not drill into the formers.
i used a drill bit to start and then a step bit to make the right size hole. these make it really easy not to go to big. i marked the exit dot on the left hand side half way between the fire wall and the landing gear and half way between the top of the wing saddle and the bottom of the fuse.
if you start all the screws its easier to put a little zap on the threads before you screw them in.

the tank was easy ... i had a 32oz fortitude tank from my sbach. i replaced all the fuel lines and clunk. strapped the tank down with rubber mat under it.
here are some pictures

Got a Checkmate on it's way! Now I have a new EME 55 or a new JC 60 latest version and have to decide which one to use. Or should I just get a DLE for it, or a BME, DA, ....... Decisions, decisions. What servos for rudder, etc... Plan on using a smart fly power expander plus regulated so battery options are open at the moment and it has a optic cutoff for ignition built into it.

Originally Posted by rallard67

I looked at the cabane struts this morning and seem to be correct.what problems did they have with the ultimate?
And yes on the thrust angle.

In flight upper wing failure resulting in total loss of the aircraft, engine, batteries such. Numerious fellows have had upper wing issues on the 50cc Aeroworks Ultimate, see thread: https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...ad.php?t=42941.

I’m pretty sure the right trust was factory set properly, as for the down trust it will be some thing to experiment as in all new plane.
I have an Edge 540 from AW. And it’s one of the best plane I ever had, would by an other one tomorrow..

for the lenght of the cabane I spoke to Vince and later I spoke to Mark for the incidence of the cabane

Elderair...Congrats!!!! Hope this build helps.I would go with either the DA or the DLE. The Da is the one they did testing with and I know several people that have the Dle with good results....of course there is always the Mintor 60 if you just wanna spend the money...

Guys,
Need a little advise here. The manual says to fasten the baffle to the cowl with Zap-a-dap-a-goo. Having a problem finding that product. You guys have any suggestions what I could use?

Happy Flying,

The Yak Pak

AMAZON has it all over the place and you can check Al's hobbies. do a search on google but get the zap a dap a goo ll .
some places list it as doll adhesive.

so tonight i installed the throttle and rudder servo along with the smart fly.
1st the throttle.. i had to round off the corner of the throttle tray to fit with the fortitude tank. the deck of the tray should sit
1 5/8'' down from the top of the motor box. i set the tray in place and marked the holes from the box for orientation.
then mark the places for the three screws that attach the tray. i predrilled the spots on the motor box first then set the tray back in the box and held to marks for orientation then drilled through the same holes into the tray.
i mixed up some 30 min epoxy and put on the back of the tray and ran screws threw the box into the tray pulling tight.
NOTE.. drill the pilot holes for the servo mounting holes first before you mount the tray.

2. the rudder servo was easy.. predrill holes and mount .. remember to put thin CA on the screws just before you screw them down

3 . the smart fly was a little bit of an issue. i had to make 2) 5/8 x 3'' rails to mount it to. i used thick CA to hold the rails down and ran the screws through the rails into the plywood underneath.

the nice thing about having the smart fly here is the throttle and rudder servo dont have extensions to reach the plug. here are some more pictures

Looks like the tank is up in the engine box?
Shouldn't it be closer to the CG?

Originally Posted by The Yakpak

Guys,
Need a little advise here. The manual says to fasten the baffle to the cowl with Zap-a-dap-a-goo. Having a problem finding that product. You guys have any suggestions what I could use?

Happy Flying,

The Yak Pak

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Hi Yak Pak ;

I used a product called (GOOP) for the baffle to the cowl --- worked very good .

Ray

droland. the tank is centered on the space intended for the stock tank but the stock tank is 24 oz and this one is 32. it is about a 1/2'' longer than stock and about 3/8'' taller. i tend to put them a little forward anyway. i would rather the plane start out a little nose heavy. dont want a scale plane getting ''snappy'' on landing

Originally Posted by rallard67

droland. the tank is centered on the space intended for the stock tank but the stock tank is 24 oz and this one is 32. it is about a 1/2'' longer than stock and about 3/8'' taller. i tend to put them a little forward anyway. i would rather the plane start out a little nose heavy. dont want a scale plane getting ''snappy'' on landing

I see. You know what you are doing. I was just curious as in the pictures it looked like it was farther forward than any I've seen.

It's is looking good. Carry on.