Originally Posted by tailgunner

Jay, Good job. It looks Awesome. It's the underside, don't sweat it if it ain't perfect.

Thanks. I pulled the left side off and re-did it. It turned out much better. Where I had trouble was on the aft part of the fuse. The covering was very prone to wrinkling on the spars, and got worse when I shrank the adjacent open spans. I think if I first glued down the cover along the spar, and cooled the cover with a cool cloth above the spar, and then shielded that area from heat when I shrank the nearby covering, I could prevent that. The front half turned out very good. I worked very slowly and tacked the cover down while it was under tension by me pulling, but before shrinking with the heat gun. I need to replace the letters that were on the side of the fuse. I was going to just order vinyl letters precut but for the same money, I can get an entire roll of black ultracote, make them, gain the experience, and have 90% of the roll left over for future use. The vinyl would be perfect, but I would learn nothing.

No more broken chassis , bashing will begin Friday !

Originally Posted by scott m lyons

No more broken chassis , bashing will begin Friday !

HAHAHAHAHA so how much do u have in that thing????
lololol

so whats next?

we will see!

here ya go put this on there

Originally Posted by helisrule

HAHAHAHAHA so how much do u have in that thing????
lololol

so whats next?

we will see!

LOL !! You know it's been my fault the chassis keeps breakin' . The bolts that hold the shocks on also stiffen and connect the gear case halfs to the chassis, I haven't been tightening them enoughf. Didn't want to crush the ball sockets in the shocks.

Originally Posted by Jay Hayes

Thanks. I pulled the left side off and re-did it. It turned out much better. Where I had trouble was on the aft part of the fuse. The covering was very prone to wrinkling on the spars, and got worse when I shrank the adjacent open spans. I think if I first glued down the cover along the spar, and cooled the cover with a cool cloth above the spar, and then shielded that area from heat when I shrank the nearby covering, I could prevent that. The front half turned out very good. I worked very slowly and tacked the cover down while it was under tension by me pulling, but before shrinking with the heat gun. I need to replace the letters that were on the side of the fuse. I was going to just order vinyl letters precut but for the same money, I can get an entire roll of black ultracote, make them, gain the experience, and have 90% of the roll left over for future use. The vinyl would be perfect, but I would learn nothing.

I've had good experiances and bad doing covering, but it all seems like a PITA to me. I want it to look nice but bottom line it'll fly just as good. I do admire the real modelers who build to perfection, it's an art to do a great covering job and stay sane.

Originally Posted by scott m lyons

LOL !! You know it's been my fault the chassis keeps breakin' . The bolts that hold the shocks on also stiffen and connect the gear case halfs to the chassis, I haven't been tightening them enoughf. Didn't want to crush the ball sockets in the shocks.

thank lord u paint and not a mechanic then LOLOL...

Originally Posted by Jay Hayes

On the underside of the left wing, oil had loosened the adhesive, and the letters "L and E" peeled off. I made a crayon rubbing from the top of the wing, and then cut out new letters from the template. They ironed on super easy. The old glue was very hard to remove. I tried alcohol, enamel thinner, and ended up using acetone. Even that worked poorly. It turned out fine though, as can be seen in the before and after pics.
I have enough covering, I may remove the covering on the left side of the fuse and try again. I'm sure I can do bettet.

Looking good Jay! One thing I do to remove old glue is to iron on a piece of scrap covering wait a second or two and pull it back off while the glue is still hot. It works like a charm and way easier than scrubbing with acetone.

I have a question for any experienced coverer. How can I cut only the top layer of covering after it is on the plane, but leave the lower layer uncut. So far, I have been cutting before I iron the cover down. For example, where the fuse meets the turtledeck, I measured and cut ahead of time, and that worked out fine, except I could not keep tension on that seam as I secured it.

I just picked up one of these. It works really well for that. You set the blade depth so you can't go too deep. It's the MonoKote Smart Cut Trim Tool.

ricky bobby im still bleeding

If you go to the website "Live Leak", and search the video " insane landing", it's worth watching. Very close to the ground landing approach. I don't want to post a link, in the video the cameraman drops a loud F bomb, out of fear, and I don't want points for linking to videos with profanity.

Originally Posted by pop77

ricky bobby im still bleeding

you need a ride to the ER

no just some duct tape

Originally Posted by pop77

ricky bobby im still bleeding

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