I'm flying a Hangar 9 with a thick carbon fiber landing gear. Does anyone know of a company that produces long steel axles ( 3 inches for example ) with longer threaded sections than Dubro offers.. I see that Dubro has long axles but the threaded portion is too short to go through the gear with enough left to screw the nut on. Thanks for your help.

Seen your post going down...Axles sometimes can be a problem getting the right dimensions. If you have no luck finding "store bought" maybe you know someone with a lathe that can help you out. I sometimes build custom axles for me and my friends... just a thought. Good luck. hopefully someone will chime in with a source...

How about a long shouldered bolt? The smooth shoulder part functions as the axle and the threaded part goes through the gear and use a lock nut on the other side? I seen this setup on an EMHW ultimate I was building.

Here's a thread I made, about making my own axles. It may or may not be of interest to you, but it works well and is easy to do.

https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...ferrerid=30148

I second the shoulder bolt... I refused to buy the $50 white rose axels so I use 1/4-20 shoulder bolts and you can get them in any length, they are super strong... And they are CHEAP!

I like the shoulder bolt idea..

What I do is drill and tap the gear leg on the thick carbon gear. I know it isn't much help if you have drilled the leg for the axle but will help in the future.

Phil's shoulder bolt method is certainly very effective but I would estimate the time investment to make them, without any consideration for the cost of the materials and sourcing them, is over two hours a pair. I realize our products are not cheap but they are light (titanium) include "C" clips rather than less reliable wheel collars, and are tapped in the end so the wheel pant can be secured from both sides. Whatever Phil does for a living it probably earns him more then $25.00 per hour so from that stand point our axles are a bargain

Originally Posted by Vern Smith

Phil's shoulder bolt method is certainly very effective but I would estimate the time investment to make them, without any consideration for the cost of the materials and sourcing them, is over two hours a pair. I realize our products are not cheap but they are light (titanium) include "C" clips rather than less reliable wheel collars, and are tapped in the end so the wheel pant can be secured from both sides. Whatever Phil does for a living it probably earns him more then $25.00 per hour so from that stand point our axles are a bargain

That shoulder bolt idea was actually someone else's. I posted the link to the thread showing how I made my own from a different type bolt. You're right, it does take a little time, but the real reason I made mine was because at the time, I was not able to get them from EF, and their axles are different than most others, meaning I couldn't use what are commonly available. It really would have been far easier to just buy them from EF had they been available.

Hey Vern. I didn't realize yours were of such design to enable them to be secured from the opposite end. Can you post a picture? I'm currently assembling a buddy's 91 Extra, and this is what I typically do to maximize wheel pant sturdiness.

Originally Posted by Vern Smith

Phil's shoulder bolt method is certainly very effective but I would estimate the time investment to make them, without any consideration for the cost of the materials and sourcing them, is over two hours a pair. I realize our products are not cheap but they are light (titanium) include "C" clips rather than less reliable wheel collars, and are tapped in the end so the wheel pant can be secured from both sides. Whatever Phil does for a living it probably earns him more then $25.00 per hour so from that stand point our axles are a bargain

Vern, I've only ordered from you once and the product I bought might seem expensive. Then I consider that I was having them custom machined before at a much higher price. My only complaint was shipping costs which seemed very high for something that could be put in a small padded bag and shipped by mail for much less than what your web site tacks on. I'll order again but would probably order more often with reduced shipping costs on small items.

Here's a couple of pics of my White Rose setup, with brakes on my BH 50% YAK. Plenty of thread protrusion on the back side and with a couple of drops of some blue loctite, it ain t going anywhere. Also as a secondary, there's a 6-32 bolt with a washer,,, just incase the clip pops off, for whatever reason. To insure that doesn t happen, have a few extras on hand to change out like once or twice a year. A good time to do that would be when you perform your annual Fuel Tank refurb.

On a side note,,, if your holes in the landing gear are too big for the White Rose axles, ask Vern to cut you some spacers. Then glue those in with some 30min epoxy as you assemble the axles onto the landing gear with washers under the nut and the axle. Don t worry if you get some epoxy on the axle threads, you just won t have to use the blue loctite,,,

Once you go White Rose its a done deal

These are my white rose wheels on my Dalton. The titanium axles are tapped for 6-32 screws. I place a hardwood block on the inside of the wheel pants, where it keys into, then from the outside, this screw goes thru the wheelpant, hardwood block, then into the axle. If the c-clips were to come off, as long as the screw is still there, then you will not lose your wheel.

Originally Posted by Truckracer

Vern, I've only ordered from you once and the product I bought might seem expensive. Then I consider that I was having them custom machined before at a much higher price. My only complaint was shipping costs which seemed very high for something that could be put in a small padded bag and shipped by mail for much less than what your web site tacks on. I'll order again but would probably order more often with reduced shipping costs on small items.

Do you race full sized trucks or the RC types?

Originally Posted by Bill Vargas

Plenty of thread protrusion on the back side and with a couple of drops of some blue loctite, it ain t going anywhere. Also as a secondary, there's a 6-32 bolt with a washer,,, just incase the clip pops off, for whatever reason. To insure that doesn t happen, have a few extras on hand to change out like once or twice a year. A good time to do that would be when you perform your annual Fuel Tank refurb.

Once you go White Rose its a done deal

We supply the axles with nylon insert lock nuts (stainless) to keep them from coming off but Locktite 242 is never a bad idea when a two cycle engine is involved.