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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
Ron, sorry about your loss -
I recommend using the A123 batteries from Hangtime Hobbies/ NOBS - there is a complete set up guide for A123. I have been flying them for some time in my Yak and they are incredible. You can use the standard electro-dynam charge jack switches to balance charge the A123 packs without a special connector. Just remove the white (or whatever color) signal wire from the switch to the receiver. The wire from the charger to the pack uses the signal line to balance the 2 cell pack. I run dual 1100 mah NoBS A123 packs through a Smart-Fly BatShare device into my FASST receiver, this drops the voltage about .45 volts and works very well if a pack or switch goes bad. It is a bullet proof redundant system that is light and works great on 50 - 60 cc airframes. I am using the multi-4 charger to charge and balance the 2 cell packs through the charge port. You must limit current to 3 amps or less due to the connector restrictions. With better connectors, A123s can be charged at up to 8 amps after proper formatting. On the Lipo for the transmitter, it should be charged through the white 10 pin connector, not the transmitter charge jack. That way it will be balanced correctly when you use the proper Lipo charger and connector. The multi-4 can charge those also. |
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
Hey Danny, could you post a very short tutorial on how you make the pack? Meaning how they are wired? I've been thinking about making my own packs. Also, where did you buy the balance lead?
Thanks Steve |
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
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To wire the balance connector the first wire is soldered to the negative terminal of the pack. With the JXT connector facing to the right (with the little plactic guide rails facing up) the first wire goes into the bottom pin slot. The next wire is soldered to the battery bar and the last wire is soldered to the positive terminal. Here is a nifty little interactive wiring diagram http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_lipo.html. |
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
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Steve |
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Hot Springs, Arkansas
Joined Nov 2008
51 Posts
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
Before mine was stolen, I had the CG at the back of the wing tube. It seemed to porpoise a little and climb when inverted. I'm moving my CG to the center of the wing tube when I get my replacement. I think I'm going with the Russian Thunder and DLE-55 with cannister direct from Pilot. After you folks have flown these for awhile, with cannisters, what is the best way to seal the connection tube on the exhaust??
Thanks - Ron |
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
X2 on what Danny said. I did replace the spring clamps with some hose clamps though. Not a drop of leaks in about 3 gallons of fuel.
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
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Re: Pilot-RC 30% Yak
Perhaps it just another one of those things we replace as a matter of course without thinking why. The spring clamps look cheesy, but technically do a better job of securing the connection. Spring clamps will maintain a constant tension regardless of heat expansion / contraction whereas the screw clamps will loosen as the base components change shape. You can screw them down really tight though.
michael. |
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