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Old 07-25-2016, 08:42 AM
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Yes, swap out the hall sensor for sure (known problem) on the older HV RCExl's, and flipping speed caused different spark results. Then fully clean and rebuild the carb with a carb kit or oil it. Also change and gap your plugs while you're at it incase they're fouled from break-in. You'll be flying in no time.

- Travis
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:58 AM
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Thanks for all the responses.

I REALLY appreciate the input.

Jim
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:25 AM
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I had the same problem. After going through 4 RCexl hall sensors (they all did the same thing), I contaced Milton at rcextremepower. net. He told me about the flaw in their sensors. Having used his RCexl ignitions on a 3W I have he told me to use his sensor on it. 30 minutes later it was running. He told me that when he discovered their flawed sensor he never included them with the ignitions he sells. Only RCAME brand. Thats the one you want to use.
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:33 PM
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Can the Hall effect sensor be changed for another brand? This is is a Honeywell sensor for $.82 each. They have them in other voltages as well.
http://www.alliedelec.com/honeywell-...FcNahgodcPYCOA
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Old 07-26-2016, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jon595 View Post
I had the same problem. After going through 4 RCexl hall sensors (they all did the same thing), I contaced Milton at rcextremepower. net. He told me about the flaw in their sensors. Having used his RCexl ignitions on a 3W I have he told me to use his sensor on it. 30 minutes later it was running. He told me that when he discovered their flawed sensor he never included them with the ignitions he sells. Only RCAME brand. Thats the one you want to use.
Gosh Jon. I have sold about 50 Rcexl Hall sensors in the past month or so... Not one, zip zero has turned out to be bad that I know of.

In reality one must consider that there was a bad "Batch" of sensors that went to to the GP engine company as reported by more than one customer. From the one that I saw that was on a 61 in that batch (went bad) it looked like it had much thinner than 22awg wire. Maybe 26. That apparently did not last in the high vibration environment. Hall sensors before and since appear to have 22ga wire.

I vote for the stiff carb diaphragm if it really did sit over a year. Could be both!!
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by WrongWayRC View Post
Gosh Jon. I have sold about 50 Rcexl Hall sensors in the past month or so... Not one, zip zero has turned out to be bad that I know of.

In reality one must consider that there was a bad "Batch" of sensors that went to to the GP engine company as reported by more than one customer. From the one that I saw that was on a 61 in that batch (went bad) it looked like it had much thinner than 22awg wire. Maybe 26. That apparently did not last in the high vibration environment. Hall sensors before and since appear to have 22ga wire.

I vote for the stiff carb diaphragm if it really did sit over a year. Could be both!!

What really was embarrasing was that Jaybird had the right touch in getting it started. When he went off for work I was grounded. And this was 2 years ago so the problem has probably been sorted by now. But everytime I read these theeads and someone has similar pronlems I tell them what worked for me.
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Old 07-27-2016, 01:39 AM
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when a 2 stoke engine sits without use for an extended period using current fuel, the fuel evaporates and all your are left with is sticky oil. that sticky oil will most likely have prevented fuel to move through the small holes in the choke circuit. I would either send it in s joe as suggested or disassemble the carb if you are able and clean out all the passages with wd40 or carb cleaner. if you get it to pop or run by priming the cylinders it does not indicate you are having an ignition problem.

Ken not sure what you're talking about here. Under what conditions are you refering to when you talk about the fuel evaporating completely to leave gums behind? I ask because I never see this as a problem when the fuel tank is left fully fueled and the carb is left wet with fuel after flying. Are you refering to E10? Or is it just very hot year round where you live?
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by WrongWayRC View Post
Gosh Jon. I have sold about 50 Rcexl Hall sensors in the past month or so... Not one, zip zero has turned out to be bad that I know of.

In reality one must consider that there was a bad "Batch" of sensors that went to to the GP engine company as reported by more than one customer. From the one that I saw that was on a 61 in that batch (went bad) it looked like it had much thinner than 22awg wire. Maybe 26. That apparently did not last in the high vibration environment. Hall sensors before and since appear to have 22ga wire.

I vote for the stiff carb diaphragm if it really did sit over a year. Could be both!!
Regarding the bad sensors, from the many comments on the various forums and my personal experience, there must have been quite a few that got into the market. I had (3) of them and all were provided on DLE engines or provided as RCexl replacement parts. None are the ones that have the finer wire and I also have a sensor that went intermittent with a broken wire but the sensor itself was fine. Repairing the wire made that sensor usable again.

As stated before, if someone has one of the bad sensors, it will cause all sorts of problems and the owner will know there is a problem though he may think it is a carb problem, a tuning problem, other engine problem, etc. before finally realizing the issues are caused by the sensor. It will spark and run but not be happy otherwise.

Nobody said that all RCexl sensors are bad and I'm glad to hear that new ones have the problem resolved. The bad ones are easy enough to test for and the procedure has been described in other threads. Just because it sparks though doesn't mean it is good. I believe the GP guys were the first to discover the problem and that's where I first learned of the problem. Like many I was a disbeliever but became a believer when one of my new engines had those strange problems I had never experienced before.
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:35 AM
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One more thing to add, for posterity, because it is mostly behind us at this point. Rcexl had changed their subcontractor for the hall sensors not long before the problems started. I believe that once they realized it they made the changes but it may have been too much to go find where the batch of bad ones filtered down to.

A spare hall sensor is a good thing to have in your parts bin. Anytime you go to troubleshooting it is a great way to plug and play to eliminate the possibility of that being the actual problem.
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Old 07-27-2016, 11:41 AM
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One more thing to add, for posterity, because it is mostly behind us at this point. Rcexl had changed their subcontractor for the hall sensors not long before the problems started. I believe that once they realized it they made the changes but it may have been too much to go find where the batch of bad ones filtered down to.

A spare hall sensor is a good thing to have in your parts bin. Anytime you go to troubleshooting it is a great way to plug and play to eliminate the possibility of that being the actual problem.
+1 regarding having a spare sensor. That along with a carb kit and a new plug should be standard equipment for any gas engine owner.

I'm thinking there were quite a few of those bad sensors produced and distributed. I suspect many carbs have been blamed for a problem caused by the sensor. Quite a few bad sensors are yet to be discovered but like most things in this hobby, it will all sort out in the end.
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Old 07-27-2016, 11:50 AM
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I found the problem close to two years ago, I test all ignitions before I ship them so if a customers calls and says a ignition is not firing I know it must be something beside the ignition.


While testing ignitions I seen that some of them would fire two times, When the magnet went under the sensor and again when it past the sensor. did not give it much thought until customers were having a problem with kick back and misfiring. Sent them a RCAME sensor and problem went away.


The problem may be fixed but I still replace the sensors when I ship out ignitions, The only RCexl ignitions I sell are the twins, All my single ignitions are RCAME.


I have a box with about 300 RCexl sensors that some might be good but do not want to take a chance on sending them out.


One thing I do know if RCexl has a problem and knows it they do not give out any information until they have to just like the problem the twins a few years back that had the timing curve problem, You could not hand start a engine with that ignition.


I pulled out my hair for 5 months and made a rig to test timing curve, Found the problem and contacted RCexl Then was sent the recall letter that they knew about the problem the whole time.


At the time this happened I was getting all my ignition direct fro RCexl.


Milton
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Old 07-27-2016, 01:47 PM
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Ken not sure what you're talking about here. Under what conditions are you refering to when you talk about the fuel evaporating completely to leave gums behind? I ask because I never see this as a problem when the fuel tank is left fully fueled and the carb is left wet with fuel after flying. Are you refering to E10? Or is it just very hot year round where you live?
we have alcohol as an additive in our fuel as well additional solvents. fuel will go bad within a few months when not stored properly. when the fuel and solvents evaporate it leaves a soul smelling mixture that does not like to move. especially if it dries in the carb. it is difficult to diagnosis but from what was described and the length of time fuel was left unattended this was my suggestion.
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:30 PM
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I am so thankful for where I live. Fuel here that comes mostly from the Texas and Oklahoma refiners, even the ethanol blends evaporate with no visible residue. Old lawn equipment, saws, show no ill effects even after years of service. Most stations still give us a choice of ethanol or non-ethanol blends. Sorry fuels are so foul in some other locations.
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Old 07-27-2016, 11:44 PM
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we have alcohol as an additive in our fuel as well additional solvents. fuel will go bad within a few months when not stored properly. when the fuel and solvents evaporate it leaves a soul smelling mixture that does not like to move. especially if it dries in the carb. it is difficult to diagnosis but from what was described and the length of time fuel was left unattended this was my suggestion.


Ok understood. Do your know what the other solvents are?
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:32 PM
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we have alcohol as an additive in our fuel as well additional solvents. fuel will go bad within a few months when not stored properly. when the fuel and solvents evaporate it leaves a soul smelling mixture that does not like to move. especially if it dries in the carb. it is difficult to diagnosis but from what was described and the length of time fuel was left unattended this was my suggestion.
Ken, the FBO at Hampton, NH has 93 octane no alcohol, no lead for $4.30 per gallon. I buy 10 gallons in the Spring and run it into the Winter.
http://www.hamptonairfield.com/
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