Originally Posted by BarracudaHockey

Hoopla about twisted wire extensions is just that. Twisted pairs work great for communication cable like network and phone lines, but for servos they look pretty. I don't get into posting resume's but I deal with high speed communication cabling for a living, you can trust me on this.

From what Ive been told by reputable people in the electronics area...the twisted extensions reduce RF noise.

Originally Posted by Jetpainter

+1 We all have our was of doing things. I'm a big believer in overkill. I run two A123 reciever batteries and a Li-Ion on the ignition. It's just my personal preference.

Why a Li-on for ignition and not another A123?

I'm curious, why the LiIon? Isn't it easier to have one charger, one chemistry?

For example, my new 60cc Corvus has a 2500Mah A123 on the Rx and an 1100 A123 on the ignition. WrongwayRC makes external charge leads that plug into the balance tap on the battery. I just plug the CellPro into one side till it beeps, plug it into the other side till it beeps and in 15 minutes both my batteries are charged.

My Pawnee has 2 2500 packs into a power safe (though we are talking 120cc plane that I'm towing expensive gliders with) one pack direct to the rx, one to the rx and split to the ignition. Same thing, plug one in till it beeps, move the connector and 20 minutes and I'm ready to fly again.

All my 50cc have one 2500 A123 split to the rx and ignition, since they are so easy to charge I just charge after 3 flights. I also charge while I'm packing so the plane is ready to fuel and fly next time it comes out of the trailer.

Originally Posted by boggintuff

From what Ive been told by reputable people in the electronics area...the twisted extensions reduce RF noise.

I guess it depends on who you trust

I worked on avionics on some very expensive tax payer funded toys for a long time. I also taught college classes in network and communications cable installation and troubleshooting.

I happen to know that twisting servo wires does nothing but look pretty.

Originally Posted by BarracudaHockey

I guess it depends on who you trust

I worked on avionics on some very expensive tax payer funded toys for a long time. I also taught college classes in network and communications cable installation and troubleshooting.

I happen to know that twisting servo wires does nothing but look pretty.

Hmmm interesting.

No special resaon why I run a Li-ION on the ignition other than it's a little smaller and easier to find room to mount. As far as charging is concerned all my batteries are Duralite's with onboard balancing. I charge all of them at once with a Duralite charger. No setting anything, just plug them in and wait for the green lights to go off. It's just what works for me. It doesn't make it right, but it doesn't make it wrong either.

As BarracudaHockey mentioned - there is always more than one way to do things.
All of the advice you have been given so far is very much spot on - choose any of it and you won't go wrong.

I second the EME 60 over the EME 55 - it is well worth it.
I prefer the twisted servo wires for no other reason than because the wire I use (I make my own extensions most of the time) is Silicon coated wire and the twisted ones seem to hold "Shape" a little better. The twist makes no appreciable difference on our 2.4G setups.
I second the larger than 1" servo arms (I also use 1.25" or 1.5" on most of my 50cc sized planes.) however you may get enough throw with the 1" ones if you are not interested in large throws (apparently there are some people who don't do 3d - weird).

Choose - build and enjoy.

Yes, I would also go with the 60 over the 55

Originally Posted by boggintuff

To be honest the reliability ive had with the ease of drop in...you cant beat a Fourtitude gas tank

1" wont be long enough if you ever plan on doing any 3D.

It go with the DLE myself

Thanks, what would be recommended for arm lenght 1.25" or 1.5" on this size plane

Originally Posted by BarracudaHockey

I'm curious, why the LiIon? Isn't it easier to have one charger, one chemistry?

For example, my new 60cc Corvus has a 2500Mah A123 on the Rx and an 1100 A123 on the ignition. WrongwayRC makes external charge leads that plug into the balance tap on the battery. I just plug the CellPro into one side till it beeps, plug it into the other side till it beeps and in 15 minutes both my batteries are charged.

My Pawnee has 2 2500 packs into a power safe (though we are talking 120cc plane that I'm towing expensive gliders with) one pack direct to the rx, one to the rx and split to the ignition. Same thing, plug one in till it beeps, move the connector and 20 minutes and I'm ready to fly again.

All my 50cc have one 2500 A123 split to the rx and ignition, since they are so easy to charge I just charge after 3 flights. I also charge while I'm packing so the plane is ready to fuel and fly next time it comes out of the trailer.

Hi BH,

on the last paragraph what are you using to split the A123, the Ultra IBEC?. I was told it could produce RF noise to the RX but on their site it says it has an optical connection hence eliminating the RF noise issue, am I correct in assuming that?

Originally Posted by BarracudaHockey

I guess it depends on who you trust

I worked on avionics on some very expensive tax payer funded toys for a long time. I also taught college classes in network and communications cable installation and troubleshooting.

I happen to know that twisting servo wires does nothing but look pretty.

I think we should trust the guy fixing the Raptors and B-2s seems reasonable.....

Originally Posted by aussiesteve

As BarracudaHockey mentioned - there is always more than one way to do things.
All of the advice you have been given so far is very much spot on - choose any of it and you won't go wrong.

I second the EME 60 over the EME 55 - it is well worth it.
I prefer the twisted servo wires for no other reason than because the wire I use (I make my own extensions most of the time) is Silicon coated wire and the twisted ones seem to hold "Shape" a little better. The twist makes no appreciable difference on our 2.4G setups.
I second the larger than 1" servo arms (I also use 1.25" or 1.5" on most of my 50cc sized planes.) however you may get enough throw with the 1" ones if you are not interested in large throws (apparently there are some people who don't do 3d - weird).

Choose - build and enjoy.

Thanks, seems all around good advice and a lot of concensus on some of the issues like 60 vs 55 and arms lenght

I used 1.5" on my 50cc's and 4" offset for the pull/pull

I didn't mess with that Air Force junk, Fly Navy!

My setup is thus.
My 50cc planes...
1 2300 or 2500 MAH A123 with two leads.
1 lead to a JR HD Switch then to the RX
1 lead to a JR HD Switch > RC Excel Optical Kill > Ignition

My 60cc Corvus
1 2500 A123 to a HD Switch then to the RX
1 1100 A123 to a switch > RC Excel > Ignition

My 120cc Pawnee
2 2500 A123s.
1 with one lead Battery > Switch > Input1 on a power safe rx

1 with two leads
Battery > Switch > Input2 rx
Battery > Switch > RX Excel > Ignition

No interference problems.

Originally Posted by BarracudaHockey

I didn't mess with that Air Force junk, Fly Navy!

Navy AC here...GO NAVY!!

Originally Posted by ivansie

Hi BH,

on the last paragraph what are you using to split the A123, the Ultra IBEC?. I was told it could produce RF noise to the RX but on their site it says it has an optical connection hence eliminating the RF noise issue, am I correct in assuming that?

1.5" arms. Tech-Aero IBEC is the best out there. EME60.