This is one of the things in life where you struggle like hell to do it the first time, but then you think, well at least I know how to do it now. Next time will be easy! Not!

First of all, does anyone have a link to a good explanation of how to setup and adjust center points and linkages with dual servos?

I'm working on a EF 104 Extra. I started with the inboard servos. Subtrim was zero. I centered the servos electronically and installed the arms as near as possible to 90. Both point slightly to the hinge. On the right, I adjusted linkages until throw is centered, and then I added subtrim until the aileron was centered. Aileron is centered with arm very near 90 degrees and throws equal up and down. I'm getting about 43deg in each direction. On the left, I try the same thing. I adjust the linkages, but I'm only getting 40deg in each direction.

Ok, now I have equal throws in both directions on both sides, but the right aileron is centered, the left is not. If I change the subtrim, I get both ailerons equal but down from 0deg.

I don't think I get it. Can someone explain and help me through this?

good evening, start with all travel adjustments at 100%, all sub trims at 0. set wing vertical so weight of the aileron doesn't get the servos talking. starting with inboard servo, use sub trim to create perpendicular angle of arm to servo. adjust linkage so that aileron is in neutral position. use subtrim to create parallel arm angle with outboard servo. adjust linkage so it mirrors center point of inboard and servos are quiet. go full throw and reduce (or add) travel on outboard servo so both servos are quiet at full throw. the EF has staggered arms for the ailerons so the outboard adjustment should be very slight. repeat....i have a balance feature on my 11x but have never seen a need for it.

i have never measured the throw on my EF ailerons, it's probably about 20 degrees, rolls are axial and it maintains heading on a 45 which is the test for proper aileron set-up.

don't overthink it...although if you have a an in line voltage meter you can use that in lieu of your ear to determine when the servos are properly synched.

Or... you could split the ailerons and then you could set up a variety of thing (flaps, crow, only use outer ends for imac... use whole thing for 3D). Splitting them would cure binding for sure.

Originally Posted by FGNewbie

don't overthink it

You may have realized that I do that quite a lot! I know what I did wrong. I put both inboard servos on one channel and both outboard on the other. I don't know why I did that, but it sure did confuse me.

Now I have both on one side in channel 1. Both on the other side on channel 6. I adjust the centerpoint and linkages for the inboard servo. I have a Boomarc intelimatch which is going to set the center point on the outboard servo. What are you using to get the separate center point for the outboard servo?

I assume your radio is recognizing a quad servo setup. I assume then that it's giving you a second center point adjustment. Is that right? My Futaba radio won't do that. If didn't have the Intelimatch, what would I do then?

what radio

do u still need help.. I can call and walk u threw it after I get my little girl to bed

Actually, I'm pretty sure my radio will support two independent servos per wing. I found a thread from a while back, and I vaguely remember the settings now. When my radio finishes charging, I'm going to look at that.

Originally Posted by midwestpilot

Or... you could split the ailerons and then you could set up a variety of thing (flaps, crow, only use outer ends for imac... use whole thing for 3D). Splitting them would cure binding for sure.

Just did this on my AW 35% Edge 540 and man they work flawless. Can't bind & burn up now right ????

Actually, the "Split Aileron" concept offers many advantages over and above eliminating binding servo's.
Even when servo's are perfectly matched on a single control surface, you can still get flexing. This is especially true on single piece ailerons.
Also, if you have one servo fail with the Split ailerons for reasons other than binding, you still have the other one to get you down.

We could give you a lot more help if you told us what radio and receiver you were using!!

RADIO!

I'm using a Futaba 14SG radio with a Boomarc powerbus 824 and intellimatch im-22. Like I said, I got myself confused by hooking up inboards to one channel and outboards to another. I'm good now.

On the below thread I discuss in length how to mechanically setup your servos so they will match every time. I have several posts following up with questions. It begins on post 9, post 13 shows some illustrations on how to do it.

https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...ad.php?t=79189

Originally Posted by dldeuce

Actually, I'm pretty sure my radio will support two independent servos per wing. I found a thread from a while back, and I vaguely remember the settings now. When my radio finishes charging, I'm going to look at that.

Which Futaba radio and receiver are you using??

I also suggest getting the Hangar 9 amp/volt meter. Very handy for matching multiple servos.

Oops. Just saw it is an 14SG. The easiest thing to do is to plug each servo into its own channel port. I usually put both left wing servos assigned as AIL and the right side (both) as AIL2. Each is plugged into its own servo port on the RX. Now you can adjust the center and endpoints for all 4 servos independently. I use the Hangar 9 meter to adjust for minimum amp draw at center and endpoint.

You can use the simple 2 aileron wing type. Nothing fancy needed.

I would like to see the ARF manufacturers split the ailerons in half and have one servo operate each half. Besides eliminating the binding issue it offers some redundancy and there are a ton of creative mixing options. I'll probably do this on my next dual aileron setup if I ever go that big again.