Done buddy!

Thanks for this thread, it is a welcomed resource for me a I am putting together my first gas plane.

Concerning the throttle pushrod, is it ok to use a metal pushrod with a nylon / plastic clevis or is it best to use a plastic pushrod like the Dubro Lazer? I have read both side of the fence, so some enlightening is needed. I will be using a metal gear servo for the throttle, but will a plastic servo arm be ok, or should I use aluminum? I'm kind of on the cheap and only spending where its really important (ie servos, opti switch & other redundant electrical systems).

THX!

I use metal 4-40 all-thread for my throttle rods with plastic ends on both ends of the rod. Normally ball swivels. No problems ever with that setup. The important thing is no metal to metal contact.

Originally Posted by Al Lewis

I use metal 4-40 all-thread for my throttle rods with plastic ends on both ends of the rod. Normally ball swivels. No problems ever with that setup. The important thing is no metal to metal contact.

Cool, I will probably go this route.

I am using carbon fiber push rods with dubro ball links on the ends. Is this a problem?

Shouldn't be any problem are they ca'd into the ball link?

I use threaded rod ends that are jb welded to the carbon fiber rods. Then the ball links are screwed to the rod ends.

Although I have never used them I have heard from many guys that they do use them and they are fine. I use 4-40 all-thread which I slip into a length of CF tubing and capture it with the clevis'.

This is my first gasser powered plane, Aeroworks 120 size with DLE30. Great info here on this thread. My question is regarding the throttle return spring and idle stop screw. Should the spring be disengaged or keep it functional. Also should the idle stop screw be removed and rely on the servo adjustment.
Thanks in advance and keep up the great info for us old glow junkies.
George

Yep, ditch the idle screw and the return spring.
Welcome to the world of gas, it's a .....blast.

Rishelman

do not completely remove the return spring,just unhook it.it will ruin your carb in a short time,the spring even when unhooked still holds the butter fly in the centered position

Originally Posted by Lageo04

This is my first gasser powered plane, Aeroworks 120 size with DLE30. Great info here on this thread. My question is regarding the throttle return spring and idle stop screw. Should the spring be disengaged or keep it functional. Also should the idle stop screw be removed and rely on the servo adjustment.
Thanks in advance and keep up the great info for us old glow junkies.
George

You can discard the idle stop screw completely. I would not recommend you do anything with the throttle return spring. It serves two purposes. First it sets the spacing for the butterfly on the throttle and second, should you have the linkage disconnect for any reason it will return your throttle to idle. The spring tension is not enough to have any ill affect on the throttle servo.

Originally Posted by Rishelman

Yep, ditch the idle screw and the return spring.
Welcome to the world of gas, it's a .....blast.

Rishelman

Although I appreciate the help I would ask that you make certain the information you are giving on my thread be correct.

Gee...sorry.

How does the throttle return to idle with no idle stop screw and the return spring still hooked up? Wouldn't it just close all the way and kill the engine?

Rishelman

Originally Posted by Rishelman

Gee...sorry.

How does the throttle return to idle with no idle stop screw and the return spring still hooked up? Wouldn't it just close all the way and kill the engine?

Rishelman

NP, Hopefully, if the throttle linkage should come off in flight I would consider that a good thing. And, although some guys do disconnect them from the linkage, removing it entirely is never a good idea.

So it doesn't return throttle to "idle", as stated above?

Rishelman