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Re: yak 54 50cc
here's what i did to locate the firewall holes for the mounting of the DL50. i bolted on the standoffs to the engine. then, on the end of the standoffs that are going to be mounted to the firewall, i took a no. 2 pencil and applied graphite to that end on each of the four legs and set those legs down on a piece of white paper, applying pressure to make a mark on the paper where the legs were positioned. when the engine is removed from the paper, there's a clear mark where the standoffs touched the paper. with a pointed object, pierce a hole where the center of the graphite mark is and this is the center of your standoff hole. then, bisect these holes and draw lines through these marks. the result is the exact crosshairs that are on the firewall. you may have to trim the paper down to make it easier to see the firewall lines when the paper template is applied to the front of the engine box. then just pin prick the holes through the paper template to the firewall and drill those suckers out. pretty easy. i found that when the cowl was put on, it was pretty darn good. the prop shaft was right in the center of the opening. "perfect!" those lines are right on the money for mounting your engine. they are offset to the right because of engine trust angle, that's correct. good luck. let me know if you need more help with this and i'll send some pics.
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Re: yak 54 50cc
Thanks! Thats what I thought but just wanted to make sure. Even if you were off an 1/8" or so, as big as the cowl opening is, you wouldn't even notice it.
I plan on getting started on it tomorrow. I should get the Honey Do List done today! Any recomendations on how to glue in the round hinges? I've read where guys have been using Gorilla Glue? I have plenty of 6, 15, 20, and 30 minute epoxy, but can pick up the Gorilla Glue if its easier and holds better or as good as epoxy. One of the positives I see using the Gorilla Glue is you can spuirt it directly in the holes from the bottle rather than trying to force epoxy in the holes with a cotton swab or equivelant. I would really like to avoid making a mess of this step! This is the first time I've used this style of hinge. BTW....Happy new year to you too! |
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Re: yak 54 50cc
yeah, it's ok to be off a little bit on the engine mounting....i wont tell anyone. ha! as far as gluing those hinge point style hinges, i was a bit intimidated at first but, i did a search on here and found a super tutorial on how to do it with the gorilla glue method. it works great! we did it on another fellows edge 540 and no problem. that stuff holds really well and you have more time to work. give it a try. http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=269 try this link. there's a video that takes all the guesswork right out of it. you'll really like it. now get going on that "do list" and get that plane built! see ya.
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Re: yak 54 50cc
Tutorials and videos like that are priceless! Thanks! Thats just what I needed to feel comfortable using this method. Now to finish the "List" and get moving on to more fun things. Servos will be here Monday, so I should have everything I need (Not Want!) to get 'er done.
Thanks for all the replies and most helpful tips. Its appreciated! |
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Re: yak 54 50cc
you're welcome bud. dont forget to snap a few pics as you go along and share them with us. we might go flying tomorrow (sunday) if it's not too windy. i have a modeltech magic on skis thats just a riot in the snow. will post pics and maybe a vid. glad to be of assistance and let me know if i can help again.
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Re: yak 54 50cc
%#..(@*&^ darn crap dang it.....got to the field and guess what...."no camera!" lol i guess it's better to forget that than my wing... whatever. anyway, we had a great time as you can well imagine. flying on snow is crazy fun!
i just wanted to mention the nitroplanes support if you should ever need like spare parts or if something is missing from your kit....there's a thread on rcuniverse where you can post to john at nitroplanes and he'll be glad to reply and help out. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_57...tm.htm#5747198 try this link and see if it gets you there. thats it! |
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Re: yak 54 50cc
I've done that before, (forgot to take things with me to the field that are necessary to fly) like a transmitter! Ha! Your definately not alone there. I'm lucky I only live two miles from the field.
I got to fly on Saturday....Three of us got together and met at the field. We had good weather, about 50° and light winds. No snow though.....We haven't ventured that far yet! I spend those snowy days in the garage building. I took my Twist 40 with a Magnum 91 in it. Link with pics if your interested: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ighlight=twist I've flown this one for two seasons now and simply have a blast with it. The plane/motor combination is perfect....I'm only hoping that the Yak is even more fun than the Twist! Thanks for the link to Nitroplanes support, but I've already scoped it out. Everything came packaged nicely and I haven't found (1) piece missing yet. So no need for that type of support. Only need a few tips on building from guys like you who don't mind sharing! |
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Re: yak 54 50cc
nope, dont mind helping at all my friend. i went and checked out the twist on steroids vid. man, that thing would make a nice combat plane except that if it got hit, it would probably be pretty bad. dont you need a duraplane for combat? anyway, i have two of those mag 91 engines and i really like them. mine are in a U CAN DO 60 and a 90 scale extra 300s. both are a bit underpowered but are still fun to fly. that UCD does an awesome blender and so does the extra. and like you, i cant wait to put the yakster up and see what happens. talk about thrust! holy crap! have you started your yak yet?
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Re: yak 54 50cc
I haven't started on it YET!!!! Had a bit of a setback today on the DO List....I got some Gorilla Glue and plan on starting tomorrow. Hopefully! I'm off work the rest of the week....
Just a heads up on the MAgnum 91. If it ever starts running bad, like won't idle or you can't get the needles set. Check the intake gasket where it mounts up to the head. Mine started running terrible all of a sudden and I couldn't get it adjusted. Looked all over the forums and even on Magnums website/forum. There were tons of posts from people with the same symtoms as mine and absolutely no answers as to why. Tech support just said to send it in for waranty repair. Well I took mine apart and found that the intake gasket (at the head) had blown on the bottom side to where you couldn't see it. After checking the alignments of the two mating surfaces, they were out of parallel more than what the stock gasket (.020) could fill. It took more than double that to get the two surfaces to mate up right. So I made my own gasket out of .045 thick Felpro gasket material. Has been running perfectly ever since. Never have to change the needles! Hope this might help you someday if you start having problems with yours.... |
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Re: yak 54 50cc
thanks for the info. i noticed yours ran strong in the video and was going to ask you what combination of fuel, glow plug, e.t.c. you were using. my magnums run ok and i havent had to tune them too much except for the change in temperature but i will surely check this gasket and mating surface on my mags. thats a great heads up. i also have that magnum 70 on a 50 scale yak which has four flights on it and am wishing i put a 91 on that one too. i have a feeling my little extra might be getting close to it's expiration date the way i've been flying it, so maybe the yak will end up with that 91 after all. ha! time will tell.
on the subject of gluing in your hinge points, most importantly, dont forget to apply that oil to the knuckle before starting the assembly. for obvious reasons. and secondly, if after the glue sets up on your assembly of your surfaces and they dont hinge freely and seem stuck, just pick away at the pivot point with your exacto and eventually they will break free. mine were kinda stubborn and i freaked on the first one. but it's no big deal. they eventually break free. you'll like the method. good luck. here's a pic of my 50 scale yak 54 |
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Re: yak 54 50cc
I run the standard OS type "F" glow plug, 20% nitro fuel, and a Master Airscrew Nylon 14 x 6 prop. (Which is still original, Knock on Wood)! It takes a beating.... I also fly heli's on 30% and sometimes the two fuels gets mixed! Although I have talked to many Magnum, Saito, and OS 4 stroke owners that run straight 30% heli fuel in them with no problems. Heli fuel has much more oil content and these engines seem to love it. With the 91, I've ran a full flight on 30% and was able to touch the head just after turning the engine off. It actually ran a lot cooler than the 20%. Same with my heli's. To test how you have the engine tuned on a heli is to hover it for a few minutes, land, and while its still running, touch the backplate of the crankcase. If its cold, its too rich. If its too hot to touch, its too lean. If its warm, its just right! How much smoke its putting out is another good indicator. I've flown this 91 Magnum a minimum of 200 flights in the past 2 years and it still runs as strong as ever.
Also I believe this engine was sucking air for a long time until the gasket gave out completely. There was no way that you could pull the two surfaces together with the two tiny bolts as far out as the two surfaces were. Since I put the thicker gasket in, I havent had to touch the needles from 95° to 50°. It runs the same everytime I get it out. At the time I found the blown gasket, I tried finding stock ones and was going to double or tripple up on them. Interesting that "Everybody" that sold them was "Out Of Stock"! Anyway, you might want to have a look at yours. They may have been made on the same day as mine. I wish I would have taken pictures so I could show you what I'm talking about. BTW....How in the world did you find the video "Twist 40 on Steroids"? It wasn't in the link I posted above..... |
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Re: yak 54 50cc
thats some good info on the magnum, thanks. and i used the link that you gave me and got into that other rc site where you had the pics of your twist...then i started poking around in there and found the video. i think i went to your profile and looked up all the posts that you have made and found it that way. pretty cool, huh? anyway, 20 % nitro in the magnum....i use 15% . maybe i'll give that 20% a try. probably run a lot better. but still i'm going to check those gaskets too. i'm pretty sure i know the ones you're speaking of but if you could post a pic, that would be sweet. thanks man. you're lucky you dont have any snow. i'm getting sick of it the older i get. Blahhhhhh !!!
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Re: yak 54 50cc
I snapped a picture of my 91 and the intake. The gasket I'm talking about is between the head and intake tube, just to the left of the fuel line. See how parallel the the two mating surfaces are now with the thicker gasket? Imagine a .015-.020 thick gasket there. When you tighten the two bolts, it would put more pressure at the top of the mounting surface and less at the bottom. This is what caused the bottom of the gasket to blow out.
Theres 4 surfaces in this setup that needs machined to pretty close tolerances because of the way its designed. When you stack everything up, including the gasket, the two surfaces have to be perfectly parallel. Mine wasn't. A thicker gasket cured it and all is well. Hopefully this helps! Its very easy to see when you have it apart. |
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Re: yak 54 50cc
I would imagine that any autoparts store would have the Blue Felpro gasket material. I got mine from Autozone. A 12" x 12" square of it is only a few bucks. I checked the thickness and it is .045 thick. I also would imagine that any gasket material would work as long as it is .045 thick, except that Felpro makes an extremely good product. I would look for it if at all possible.
All I did was take the intake manifold and trace the mounting plate shape to the gasket material along with marking the holes. Then I took the measurement of the intake opening and cut the same shape on the gasket. I used scissors to cut the outside shape, then drilled the two holes, then cut out the inside shape with a hobby knife or box cutter. Wala....A fix without hitting the "Buy It Now Button"! Hope it works out ok for you...Let me know what you find when you take it apart. You will see that the alignment I'm talking about is very critical. The lower (round) end of the intake tube is mounted solid onto the carberator with an o-ring which doesn't allow it to move. So there is no room for error between the head and intake mounting flanges to absorb any discrepencies in machining. |
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