hello,
just got my new DA60 with the RE2 Pipe and header,
it is for my EF Extra 300 91''

i have a few questions,

can i break-in the engine with the pipe ?
and what is the best method to break-in the engine for solid long performance ? ( i have time )
i am going to use RED-LINE 2 stroke racing oil.
is my 24x8 is good for break-in?
and another thing, do i need to make a space between the header and the pipe inside the teflon tube?
or should i push them untill thay thotched one another ?

i know that the distance of the pipe is critical for good Acceleration,

thank you.

The best way to break in the engine is to fly the airplane because the engine will actually get more air over it then it would on a bench or on the ground in general and yes you will be fine breaking it in on the pipe. The 24x8 should be fine and as for the pipe and header leave about an 1/8" gap between the two and to make sure the pipe does not slip the coupler I suggest drilling the couple on both the header and pipe for a servo screw.

I see no reason not to break it in with the tuned pipe. Just be sure to do the break in flying it, not on the ground; you want adequate cooling. Sustained hovers or anything that could overheat the engine should be avoided. Try to change rpm as much as possible to speed break in of the piston ring. Tuning of the pipe is for peak power, not acceleration. How the engine accelerates or transitions is based on correct setting of the low speed needle. Make sure you have both needles set correctly for break in.

24.8 prop seems a littel light guess depends where you live

thanks for your answers,

Originally Posted by futile flight

24.8 prop seems a littel light guess depends where you live

i live in Israel,

Originally Posted by jtec/radiowave

The best way to break in the engine is to fly the airplane because the engine will actually get more air over it then it would on a bench or on the ground in general and yes you will be fine breaking it in on the pipe. The 24x8 should be fine and as for the pipe and header leave about an 1/8" gap between the two and to make sure the pipe does not slip the coupler I suggest drilling the couple on both the header and pipe for a servo screw.

when ou say 1/8'' it is 3mm gap right?
a servo secrew is actually going to stay there ?

should i put gasket glue or somthing ?

Heres how I seated the pipes on my DA 150 to make sure they wouldn't slip off the coupler. Assemble the header and pipe. Take a heat gun and heat up the coupler and clamps. Get them hot then let them fully cool. Do this a second time. At the first engine startup let the engine come up to temperature and then go to half throttle and kill the engine. Let fully cool before you fly. I did this procedure on my 3.1m sukhoi and the pipes haven't budged.

Originally Posted by richafflerback

Heres how I seated the pipes on my DA 150 to make sure they wouldn't slip off the coupler. Assemble the header and pipe. Take a heat gun and heat up the coupler and clamps. Get them hot then let them fully cool. Do this a second time. At the first engine startup let the engine come up to temperature and then go to half throttle and kill the engine. Let fully cool before you fly. I did this procedure on my 3.1m sukhoi and the pipes haven't budged.

That's how I did mine too. I also drilled and tapped a 6/32 hole through the couplers into the pipes and the headers between the opening in the clamps and fastened with 6/32 screws and washers.

Originally Posted by marknopfler

thanks for your answers,

i live in Israel,




when ou say 1/8'' it is 3mm gap right?
a servo secrew is actually going to stay there ?

should i put gasket glue or somthing ?

Hi you can change the position of gas servo in the fuselage with new support so I did and i have rotate the carburator of 180°.


Alessio