I still count the amps. I guess old habits die hard but what I've seen coincides with the meters readings so that reassures me somewhat. I also tried the BR2000 on a 3 amp loading to see whether any drop was noticed and none was. Unfortunately that's about the extent of my electrical knowledge. I'm on par with a water melon when it comes to electrics.

Originally Posted by MODE 1

I still count the amps. I guess old habits die hard but what I've seen coincides with the meters readings so that reassures me somewhat. I also tried the BR2000 on a 3 amp loading to see whether any drop was noticed and none was. Unfortunately that's about the extent of my electrical knowledge. I'm on par with a water melon when it comes to electrics.

My LHS has these meters. I might pick one up to monitor my LiPos. Would be nice if it does also measure a 2S LiFe without using the balance plug.

It has to use the balance plug. There are two inlets one is for NmH the other lipo and LiFi
You select from the menu which battery and it tells you the status but the balance plug is the only way to connect it to the meter.

Originally Posted by MODE 1

It has to use the balance plug. There are two inlets one is for NmH the other lipo and LiFi
You select from the menu which battery and it tells you the status but the balance plug is the only way to connect it to the meter.

That's a shame. Kinda makes it useless to me for LiFe.

Originally Posted by MrFollies

I'm not sure I follow your logic.
A123 = 2300mah packs. Plus you never really know exactly how much is left in the tank.
FromeCo LiIons are 2600mah packs. And you can stick a voltmeter onto it to see how how much is left.

I love my A123's but I don't go anywhere near the no-fly zone.

+10. I forgot to mention that before. A better quality charger is the way to go.
Since you already have a cube Roy, I would suggest you get some cards for that if you go A123.

Alternatively there is a guy from TMAC that has a cube with 3 A123 cards and a brain card. He only wants $80 for it. Something to consider. Also with the cube you can charge both at the same time without disconnecting.

How many flights in a day do you and Zac do?

Wouldnt be you selling the Ion Cube would it?

I had the cards but sold em as I was done with LiFe after they destroyed my plane.

How many flights a day? Hard to say as we havent built this plane yet!

Originally Posted by Huckin Chuck

Id say the opposite. A123s would be better for a lot of flights in a day. Unless you go with huge batts like 5200s

And id be weary of a turnigy charger. Get a cellpro 4s and keep it simple, or get a 10
They are the best for a123s

Yeah thats what I would have thought too. A123s charge fast so yur up in the air again after a cuppa joe

With the Fromeco Iron Corps 2300 A123s I would be going 2 x for the RX for redundancy wired to 2 x JR gold switches but still be using a Powerbox spark reg for kill which slightly regulates it down to about 5.9v.
Only thing is a bit of spaghetti with the wiring but its not too bad. Have done this before whilst building a 50cc Pilot plane for DA using Sanyo eneloops (which is another good simple option)

Originally Posted by Royster

Wouldnt be you selling the Ion Cube would it?

I had the cards but sold em as I was done with LiFe after they destroyed my plane.

How many flights a day? Hard to say as we havent built this plane yet!

Nope... I bought 3 recently from someone here on FG (2 a123 and 1 Ion) all with 3 cards and a brain. I sold one of them to Brian and the other two I've kept for myself.

The one for sale is from a guy at the club who saw me with mine and said: Hey I have one of those, know anyone who wants it?

Anyway he's a mate so I offered to ask around. I have the cube at my place to make sure it's ok (seems to work fine). I have no financial interest in the sale of the cube whatsoever.

But honestly, if you are still shy of A123 then go for the 2600 LiIons and just buy extra batts *if* you discover you need more flights per day. I suspect you wont need the extra packs.

Originally Posted by Royster

Yeah thats what I would have thought too. A123s charge fast so yur up in the air again after a cuppa joe

With the Fromeco Iron Corps 2300 A123s I would be going 2 x for the RX for redundancy wired to 2 x JR gold switches but still be using a Powerbox spark reg for kill which slightly regulates it down to about 5.9v.
Only thing is a bit of spaghetti with the wiring but its not too bad. Have done this before whilst building a 50cc Pilot plane for DA using Sanyo eneloops (which is another good simple option)

Will you power the Ignition from the flight packs?

The only thing I'd say about the cellpro (great charger) is that I believe it will only do balance charging. So you need to ask Howie to order the A123's without the balancer onboard. I am pretty sure he does not stock the standard ones.

Originally Posted by MrFollies

Nope... I bought 3 recently from someone here on FG (2 a123 and 1 Ion) all with 3 cards and a brain. I sold one of them to Brian and the other two I've kept for myself.

The one for sale is from a guy at the club who saw me with mine and said: Hey I have one of those, know anyone who wants it?

Anyway he's a mate so I offered to ask around. I have the cube at my place to make sure it's ok (seems to work fine). I have no financial interest in the sale of the cube whatsoever.

But honestly, if you are still shy of A123 then go for the 2600 LiIons and just buy extra batts *if* you discover you need more flights per day. I suspect you wont need the extra packs.

SOLD! I'll take it for 80 smackaroos!

Originally Posted by MrFollies

Will you power the Ignition from the flight packs?

The only thing I'd say about the cellpro (great charger) is that I believe it will only do balance charging. So you need to ask Howie to order the A123's without the balancer onboard. I am pretty sure he does not stock the standard ones.

Power the ignition from the flight packs? Hell no!

I noticed those cellpro's have their own balance connector? Looks like the Hyperion connector.
Youre right they dont stock the standards anymore. I was one of the main reasons for that.

Royster here's the deal on the cellpros and fromeco with balance charging
Cellpros can balcnce charge, so take advantage of it. Get the cheaper frommeco a123s withoout the onboard balancer (if you go the a123 route). On the first drop down box that says "wiring" select deans+balance tap. Then on the second drop down that will appear, select deans+jst pa (cellpro)
This assuming you want a deans to use for output power. If not call fromeco and they will tell you all you need to know.

I agree with the last part of post 27, do what your comfortable with. Both will work.

So are you running the ignition off of the flight packs? If you are you may need another output on the a123s
http://www.fromeco.org/Products/01FRCA123-134/

Originally Posted by Huckin Chuck

Royster here's the deal on the cellpros and fromeco with balance charging
Cellpros can balcnce charge, so take advantage of it. Get the cheaper frommeco a123s withoout the onboard balancer (if you go the a123 route). On the first drop down box that says "wiring" select deans+balance tap. Then on the second drop down that will appear, select deans+jst pa (cellpro)
This assuming you want a deans to use for output power. If not call fromeco and they will tell you all you need to know.

I agree with the last part of post 27, do what your comfortable with. Both will work.

So are you running the ignition off of the flight packs? If you are you may need another output on the a123s
http://www.fromeco.org/Products/01FRCA123-134/

Yeah thanks Chuck

Probably stick with the Relions as my Ion Cube has 5 cards in it so I can charge my 40%er and the Edge 540 at the same time
Certainly interested in these Cellpro chargers.

Cool beans
I just ran my engine up in preparation for maiden Sunday, and I shut it off and took the canopy off withen thre eminutes of shut down. I was suprised to find the fuel tank area and the inside of the motorbox quite warmm. Is this normal? I'm running a canister and it seemed like probably 60% of that heat was coming from the tunnel. So is that ok, will it be fine once the plane is flying and it has moving air, or do I need to look into that?

It's impossible to say without photos and details of the plane.
But how long did you run it for? What sort of entry / exit holes are there? Is it baffled?

Too many variables.

I'm happy to run any new or changed installation for only a minute or so on the ground. Just long enough to know that the idle is right, the engine is tuned and nothing looks too loose etc. You are not doing the engine any favours by running it for a long time on the ground.

If you are stressed about an engine overheating, get a venom temp guage and stick it in the plane for the first few flights.
I think they record the highest temp reached.

Next question what prop are ya'all using with the DA-60?