this topic must have been talked about before but I need to know the easyest or best way to install them on a warbird

bomberbill

Originally Posted by bomberbill

this topic must have been talked about before but I need to know the easyest or best way to install them on a warbird

bomberbill

It's easy but very time consuming.

Raised rivits can be made with tiny drops of glue (usually plain white glue works best). This is done before the last coat of primer is applied. Although you can apply after primer as well.

Flush rivits are made by cutting little circles in the primer with a small piece of brass tubing.
This is done after primer and before paint.

Good luck with it. What are you building?

The first method typically uses a template of evenly spaced holes on some type of plastic material so the dots are uniform.

The 2nd method uses brass tubing which you can press into the surface or attach it to a soder gun that is heat adjustable so you can burn the rivets in.

I did the 2nd method on my P-47.........it does take time but looks really good.




There are also several other methods out there, find what you like.

Thanks for the posts guys, was looking to do this as well! Always good to see what others do.

Cheers

Sweatpea....very well done!

For added detail like Sweetpea's effect, you could push a pin (with the point filed off) into some balsa and push the balsa into the brass tube so the pin is flush and centered. This will give you that center dimple as often seen.
As far as raised rivets, I've found that tubes or bottles of fabric paint work well as it it controllable, doesn't drip and you can get it in silver, so if a bit of paint flakes off, you have a silver rivet visible. This stuff doesn't flatten out as glue can sometimes do and can be made very small or large as your needs require. It also dries within an hour or so.

Thanks. The detail on my plane is very good for my first try at scale appearance.

FYI: I'm working on designing a rivet embossing machine that will do flush & raised rivets. I'll give details when close to completion. My design will allow any configuration of rivets, will do the fuselage & wings; And do the job in an hour!!

Hello, How would someone that bought an ARF warbird that has the covering all attached simulate rivets? My fuselage is no problem it has the panel lines and rivits on it already. I just want to put rivets on a already covered wing and stab. On my fuse the rivets are flush so I can assume they would be flush on the wings also.On a 80" warbird how close should the rivets be for a scale appearance?
Thanks,
Steve Mullis

Originally Posted by S Mullis

Hello, How would someone that bought an ARF warbird that has the covering all attached simulate rivets? My fuselage is no problem it has the panel lines and rivits on it already. I just want to put rivets on a already covered wing and stab. On my fuse the rivets are flush so I can assume they would be flush on the wings also.On a 80" warbird how close should the rivets be for a scale appearance?
Thanks,
Steve Mullis

I don't know of any way to add 3D rivets, but you can add dry transfers like the ones from Promark.

Originally Posted by blkbird

FYI: I'm working on designing a rivet embossing machine that will do flush & raised rivets. I'll give details when close to completion. My design will allow any configuration of rivets, will do the fuselage & wings; And do the job in an hour!!

Anyone have an update on this?

see you soon,
John

I offer laser cut vinyl rivets, screw heads, and Dzus fasteners. I can make the rivets in any diameter from 1/32" on up and with any spacing between rivets that you need. Double rows, staggered rows, circular pattern rivets, etc. are all no problem. For builders who are painting their models I generally make them from burnished chrome vinyl which allows for realistic weathering. If you would like to add them to a finished model, either painted or with some iron on type of finish, then I can make them in a nearly endless variety of colors. On gas or glow powered models I recommend a clear coat of some type over them but this is probably not necessary for electric models. For modelers looking at replicating button head rivets and considering the glue-drop method you might consider putting the glue on top of the vinyl rivets. The glue will spread out to the edge of the vinyl and no further which keeps your glue drops precisely the same diameter for a much more uniform appearance. If you have questions or would like more information please contact me at the email address below.

Much appreciated!

Chad Veich
cwveich@cwvmodels.com

I have another alternative in making rivets, but I will caution you that it is time consuming, but your efforts will yield the most realistic raised rivets I have seen to date...

Rivets are made by taking 4-40 or 2-56 rod (depending on scale) and grinding a dome on one end of the rod. This dome will be used to punch out your rivets from soda (or beer) cans using a hammer. Simply cut the top and bottom off the aluminum can, then slice it down the side to allow the can to lay flat. The rivets are punched out of the skin of the can using the rod much like a die. I have found that it is best to have a rubber sheet under the can while punching out the rivets one at a time...

Once the rivets are made, they are attached to the surface of the models primed surface with the heat from a pencil tipped soldering iron. The heat produced will burnish the rivet head into the primer and it will hold the rivet to the models primed surface very well. Final paint will permanently lock the rivets on your model.

If this process interests you I will be happy to post some photos of the process and its final results.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/191280179207

If you have a compressor these work great for raised rivets. I use regular Elmers white glue but you can use any type you like. Fill the syringe, attach the needle, adjust the "shot" amount and tap away on the foot pedal... the regulator is very accurate and the rivet head size stays constant. After a while you get in the rhythm and it moves along pretty quick.