Put three 12 minute flights on the DA120....WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!! This thing just pulls SO MUCH harder than the 100, I am amazed. Still running the same Mej 25x12S 3-blade prop....and still very quiet on cans. And I'm landing with just shy of 1/2 tank (1 liter Fiji), so will prolly be looking at 14-15 minute flight times with lots of reserve. I haven't touched the needles yet. Running on Pennzoil 2-stroke at 32:1 Slight burbles here and there but still INSTANT throttle response when ya need it...starts very easy and idles way down and smooooooth.

On the 3rd flight I was doing stationary and then climbing flat spins.... unbelievable!!!!!! Can't wait to get'r broken in and see what she'll really do.

This thing is the bomb

Earle

Originally Posted by Pistolera

Put three 12 minute flights on the DA120....WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!! This thing just pulls SO MUCH harder than the 100, I am amazed. Still running the same Mej 25x12S 3-blade prop....and still very quiet on cans. And I'm landing with just shy of 1/2 tank (1 liter Fiji), so will prolly be looking at 14-15 minute flight times with lots of reserve. I haven't touched the needles yet. Running on Pennzoil 2-stroke at 32:1 Slight burbles here and there but still INSTANT throttle response when ya need it...starts very easy and idles way down and smooooooth.

On the 3rd flight I was doing stationary and then climbing flat spins.... unbelievable!!!!!! Can't wait to get'r broken in and see what she'll really do.

This thing is the bomb

Earle

Wow, that looks so real in those pics. The plane looks incredible.

Hey Earle did you have to add spacers on the 120 since it's shorter than the 100?

Originally Posted by MLT67

Hey Earle did you have to add spacers on the 120 since it's shorter than the 100?

Yeah.....I added steel one washer behind the aluminum "standoff" washers I already was using on the DA100 and then used the prop washer on the front of the hub, behind the spinner back plate.

I didn't want to move the engine any further forward if possible for 2 reasons. 1st - the cowling tapers narrower as it goes forward and that would make the port side plug cap even closer than it is. 2nd - I could use some rear weight for CG, so the lighter engine plus not moving it much helped there. My CG is perfect with this setup (cans, White Rose tailwheel, pull/pull, full cockpit and smoke system.

KE I'm at +4 on left rudder and +6 on right (or visa versa) with zero aileron mix needed. Flies med speed KE hands off.
I have -1 on the downline mix (zero throttle).

Earle

Originally Posted by Pistolera

Put three 12 minute flights on the DA120....WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!! This thing just pulls SO MUCH harder than the 100, I am amazed. Still running the same Mej 25x12S 3-blade prop....and still very quiet on cans. And I'm landing with just shy of 1/2 tank (1 liter Fiji), so will prolly be looking at 14-15 minute flight times with lots of reserve. I haven't touched the needles yet. Running on Pennzoil 2-stroke at 32:1 Slight burbles here and there but still INSTANT throttle response when ya need it...starts very easy and idles way down and smooooooth.

On the 3rd flight I was doing stationary and then climbing flat spins.... unbelievable!!!!!! Can't wait to get'r broken in and see what she'll really do.

This thing is the bomb

Earle

Sweet, the plane looks awesome and you have to love climbing flat spins!

3DHS , when will this plane be back in stock?

Sadly, the plane featured in this build thread is for sale. I ran out of time to fly and figure I'd sell it before it sat in the garage all winter and then got crashed on it's first outing of the spring.

I'm selling it RTF for a killer price (how does 2k sound?) so hopefully it will go fast and go to a good home.

Check it out here:

https://www.flyinggiants.com/swapsho...?product=20460

aerofli - We aren't always able to monitor all the threads on the internet about our planes. If you have a question for us, it works better to contact us directly. As an example, I see that you are from Ohio, about a week after your question, we sold a few 103's at the Ohio Huckfest...don't know if you were one of those guys or not. they are out of stock now, we expect more in approx 60 days. Thanks!

Maidened my 103" yesterday and concerned about temp of the DA 120. I have run it several times static before and put about 6 minutes on it this first time in the air. Upon landing, I checked the temp and obtained 220 deg F at center of each cylinder and about 195 at the tip of cylinder cooling fins. I left the factory settings for low and high end carb adjustments. Running at sea level with outside temp about 80 deg.
Questions
1) Is this normal?
2) Those running a DA120 with standard muffs, I left the cannsiter tunnel blockoff plate installed and do not have the additional ventalation pipe hatches opened up. The only air exit are the 8 V-shaped openings cut in the lower cowl. Is this enough? Ration of Inlet vs Outlet? See pics..
3) Is it perhaps just running a little lean? No discoloration of cylinder and seemed to transition smoothly
I do have the front entry holes baffled. See pics
Any advise is appreciated

Also, The entire 6 minute maiden was between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle. Only 2 short blips at full throttle for maybe 3 sec.

Thinking about opening up the cannister tunnel to let the hot air escape??

Originally Posted by huvaljohn

Maidened my 103" yesterday and concerned about temp of the DA 120. I have run it several times static before and put about 6 minutes on it this first time in the air. Upon landing, I checked the temp and obtained 220 deg F at center of each cylinder and about 195 at the tip of cylinder cooling fins. I left the factory settings for low and high end carb adjustments. Running at sea level with outside temp about 80 deg.
Questions
1) Is this normal?
2) Those running a DA120 with standard muffs, I left the cannsiter tunnel blockoff plate installed and do not have the additional ventalation pipe hatches opened up. The only air exit are the 8 V-shaped openings cut in the lower cowl. Is this enough? Ration of Inlet vs Outlet? See pics..
3) Is it perhaps just running a little lean? No discoloration of cylinder and seemed to transition smoothly
I do have the front entry holes baffled. See pics
Any advise is appreciated

Originally Posted by huvaljohn

Maidened my 103" yesterday and concerned about temp of the DA 120. I have run it several times static before and put about 6 minutes on it this first time in the air. Upon landing, I checked the temp and obtained 220 deg F at center of each cylinder and about 195 at the tip of cylinder cooling fins. I left the factory settings for low and high end carb adjustments. Running at sea level with outside temp about 80 deg.
Questions
1) Is this normal?
2) Those running a DA120 with standard muffs, I left the cannsiter tunnel blockoff plate installed and do not have the additional ventalation pipe hatches opened up. The only air exit are the 8 V-shaped openings cut in the lower cowl. Is this enough? Ration of Inlet vs Outlet? See pics..
3) Is it perhaps just running a little lean? No discoloration of cylinder and seemed to transition smoothly
I do have the front entry holes baffled. See pics
Any advise is appreciated

first off, get that motor properly tuned. factory settings are just that, preset setting to allow it to run. you need to tune it properly for your area. secondly the exit air escapes look to be not enough. might need more exit area.

agree. that is not enough openings for the air to exit the cowl. you want three times the amount for the air to come out then the air to go in. Also with your set up like that the air rushes past the holes on the bottom and prevents the from coming out. if you put a small piece of metal or something in front of the opening then it will create a area of turbulent air around the holes allowing it to come out. I would do this before you tune it because it will effect your tuning if the air is not venting out of the cowl correctly

those planes i believe have a canister tunnel. i would use that to help out with cooling. i don't know if it is slotted but that could easily be done to make it look better than just a huge opening.

This is such a great,great airplane backed by the best company out there !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Josh,

Yes, I was thinking about adding a fin to the frontmost exit opening to create a low pressure region to assist in sucking out the hot air. Possilby my last resort if needed.

How about removing the cannister tunnel isolation wall as well as installing the slotted covers for the tunnel pan? This way the air can travel to the rear with much more escape area.

How do you have yours setup? I did not notice when you were at the TX shootout in Dayton last year

Originally Posted by Josh Price

agree. that is not enough openings for the air to exit the cowl. you want three times the amount for the air to come out then the air to go in. Also with your set up like that the air rushes past the holes on the bottom and prevents the from coming out. if you put a small piece of metal or something in front of the opening then it will create a area of turbulent air around the holes allowing it to come out. I would do this before you tune it because it will effect your tuning if the air is not venting out of the cowl correctly