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Yes I always loctite my standoffs.
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Always use Loctite on nuts and bolts....
Not every manufacturer puts that in an assembly manual and for those assembling their first or second plane just use it, regardless of whether or not the manual says so.... |
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Loctite and Neoprene washer are two must haves for any build.
My theory is if its not feasible to run neoprene washer (I.E. motor mount) loctite it. |
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I am quite amazed at how many people don't use Loctite at all and actually lose planes because of it. I put it on everything metal to metal.
Regardless of whether or not it says so in the assembly manual it's a given... |
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Joined Jul 2008
4,715 Posts
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I'm one of them that doesn't use it. Never owned a tube or bottle, (however its packaged) of loctite in my life. Never felt it necessary either even on 420 size models. Haven't lost a plane because of it though. I make sure spring washers, nordlocks and nylocks are used and periodic inspections are carried out. If they are good enough for cars and motorcycles I don't see a toy plane being anything special.
EDIT: Thinking on this further I would be hard pressed to see where it would be needed. Some use it on servo arm screws but star locks or nylon washers should be ample for the job unless the servo is badly set on its grommets and is allowed to vibrate. Then you run the chance of early servo failure over time if it does. Engine mounts: Spring washers do a good job of holding the bolts if torqued correctly and the firewall bolts need checking over time as the wood compresses like prop bolts so no point using it there. Carb and intake manifolds, nope nylocks do well there and the parts are shock absorbent to some degree Engine and crank case bolts hold well if tightened right without it and the gaskets offer some compressive lock. Landing gear works well with nylocks and plate washers. Exhaust with or without nordlocks if tightened after re heat. The only time I've used any thread hold is on rod to metal clevis as the threads there seem to always be loose but a drop of CA after trimming holds for the life of the model. What did I miss that needs it? |
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Joined Jul 2010
86 Posts
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Please read the following paragraph before beginning assembly
of your aircraft! THIS IS NOT A TOY! |
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Mode great perspective on another way of doing this. I think the reason that loctite is so popular in the industry is that people want security in a bottle. Kinda a once bottle fits all scenario.
However, I do like some of your ideas like the fasteners for the motor box. |
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I for one was taught to use Loctite on everything that it can be used one because if it can come loose it will. However, I agree with Mode 1 as lately I have been looking at the Nordlocks, Nylocks and other means of ensuring bolts don't come loose. I don't and will never use Loctite on prop bolts and I haven't had any come loose. As long as everything is properly torqued and addressed as far as washers or locks you really shouldn't have a problem. Another thing I do for linkages is put a drop of thick CA on the threads of my linkage bolts at the lock nut just for extra insurance and have never had a linkage bolt come loose.
I used to use Loctite on my cowl bolts but quickly found out that I couldn't get them to come loose as they are usually in a bad spot to get any leverage on them. I use rubber bonded washers now and no issues at all. |
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Quote:
Cant forget the boost tabs |
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Not saying I disagree entirely with the thought... but know that thread locker use in autos and motorcycles is actually very common. (I was a mechanic, in another life. Some of the places loctite was used would drive me crazy) I do tend to favor nylon locknuts where they can be used, and the split lockwashers everywhere else. On my gassers, though... I have begun to embrace the loctite. especially for standoffs and mounting bolts. These small engines, especially the large single cylinders, vibrate far worse than anything on your average car, and most motorcycles. |
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mine always get a blind nut with a nylock loctited to the bolt, never had a loose one yet .
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