I need a ring asap like today.I took my 55 apart last night which TBM replaced the needle bearing on the wristpin last year.3 oil leaks later I started to use it again.Last weekend it started to sound loose again & I found 2 of needle bearings missing.The rod felt loose on the crank like those bearings were compromised to,although they are all accounted for.I figure while apart I might as well replace the piston & jug.After that it will be like new again.I think this time I will use the bowman ring instead of the dle ring.I hope TBM will send me the failed parts so I can fix it,after my experience with them last year I am not sending back again.It cost me 45.00 in shipping alone to get there mistakes fixed
At any rate I need to get a Bowman ring for my 55.Do Is there a number to call or can it be ordered over the web?

Originally Posted by yakwards

I need a ring asap like today.I took my 55 apart last night which TBM replaced the needle bearing on the wristpin last year.3 oil leaks later I started to use it again.Last weekend it started to sound loose again & I found 2 of needle bearings missing.The rod felt loose on the crank like those bearings were compromised to,although they are all accounted for.I figure while apart I might as well replace the piston & jug.After that it will be like new again.I think this time I will use the bowman ring instead of the dle ring.I hope TBM will send me the failed parts so I can fix it,after my experience with them last year I am not sending back again.It cost me 45.00 in shipping alone to get there mistakes fixed
At any rate I need to get a Bowman ring for my 55.Do Is there a number to call or can it be ordered over the web?

Frank's # is 1-505-327-0696 he is located in New Mexico. E-mail: ringmaster46@msn.com

Originally Posted by pryor808

Frank's # is 1-505-327-0696 he is located in New Mexico. E-mail: ringmaster46@msn.com

Thanks,now if I can get TBM to send me the parts I need so I can fix my motor.I cant afford to send it back to them,shipping adds up.

No need to ship it out, looks like your on the right track in fixing it yourself. I have a 55 that I bought used and, I am going to open her up soon to check the condition of the internals. Will also change the ring to a Bowman.

Originally Posted by yakwards

Thanks,now if I can get TBM to send me the parts I need so I can fix my motor.I cant afford to send it back to them,shipping adds up.

Don't do. Just say no. Your only asking for trouble.
Get some NSK bearings or something of that quailty.

Kerwin,how would you replace the crank bearing?It's pressed together.I had the same problem except the needles came out and destroyed my jug,piston and crankcrase.Fixed it myself($180 in parts) but would have loved to put a quality needle bearing on the crank,but had no ideal what if any problems I would have created pressing the crank apart,or how to get it perfectly aligned when reassembling.Any tips will be appreciated,as I fully expect to have to do this again.
Jeff Sikes

Originally Posted by pryor808

No need to ship it out, looks like your on the right track in fixing it yourself. I have a 55 that I bought used and, I am going to open her up soon to check the condition of the internals. Will also change the ring to a Bowman.

It still has some warranty left on it so Im hoping they will send me failed parts so I can fix it.After the 3rd oil leak that they created I told them to send me the gasket set so I could fix it myself which since then hasnt leaked a drop of oil.After 3 oil leaks which started as a warranty bearing repair one can se why I am hesitant to send it back again.What I need from them is a crank/rod assembly due to damage from the needle bearings that fell out the wrist pin,piston,needle bearing assembly which bearings came out of & gasket set which will be needed to complete the repairs.I plan on purchasing the jug,crank bearings & Bowman ring to make it a complete rebuild.I need it to hold me over until I can get a DA70 or DLE 60 whenever they are avaliable.

Originally Posted by kerwin50

Don't do. Just say no. Your only asking for trouble.
Get some NSK bearings or something of that quailty.

Where can I get those bearings?I dont know how to remove the pin that holds the connecting rod to the crank.Needle bearing is no problem but the crank bearing just dont slide off

Spoke with Frank & Im ordering a ring today.TBM said they could replace everything but the crank & with all the pics required we would be looking at longer than I want to get 100.00 of parts for free,the crank would have to be done by them so Jeff is going to work up a discount price for everything I need to rebuild it.All I need is for it to last long enough to be replaced it with a da70 or dle60 but I dont want to skimp so Ill just redo the whole thing.Id feel better about flying a 2500.00 plane with a reliable engine vs a halfass one.Thats the game plan

something Frank sent me


Subject: FW: DLE reed Block Mod.



I found that on the rear intake's there is a Black plastic reed block between engine & carb. It has a flange on it for mounting to flat carb & engine surface and reed part is triangular shaped. The 2 plastic block reed surfaces are not flat and reeds in some cases don't lay perfectly flat against block. There are 2 screws that go thru a steel plate that holds reed to surface. Remove screws and reeds from block, then file or hone metal plates flat as 1 side will have burrs from having been punched out. Next tape down 320 grit sandpaper to edge of really flat surface, table top, edge of thick piece of glass, etc. Because of the lip on plastic block, let that part hang over edge and pull plastic block across paper to flatten. Repeat on other surface until shinny gone and surface is flat. It won't take much so no need to get carried away. Next deburr the 4 screw holes as screws tend to pull plastic up in screw holes. Remount screws thru plate & reed. Make sure reed is totally flat, if not remove screws again and turn reed over and re install screws. Screws will strip easily so if you have lock tite you can put a tiny bit on screws to secure & tighten gently. What this affects is idle, engine will be hard starting as if 1 or both reeds are open ever so slightly, fuel won't be drawn up to carb and stay there. If reeds are open it never will pull a vacuum to draw fuel and hold fuel at carb. Thanks Frank

Yes! the above posted info from Frank Bowman works 100%, Steve400 did the above procedure on his Dle30 and, that engine woke up as if it was on steroids. Maybe that's the reason Steve's 3DHS Extra SP busted in mid air... literally!!!

Originally Posted by pryor808

Yes! the above posted info from Frank Bowman works 100%, Steve400 did the above procedure on his Dle30 and, that engine woke up as if it was on steroids. Maybe that's the reason Steve's 3DHS Extra SP busted in mid air... literally!!!

Nah,they all do that.I broke mine doing a wall.

Originally Posted by yakwards

Nah,they all do that.I broke mine doing a wall.

I was only kidding yakwards..

Originally Posted by yakwards

Nah,they all do that.I broke mine doing a wall.

Snap roll for me... fuse went one way and the wing went the other.....
That mod does help. But a few other things were done besides.

.