Just change the carb to a Walbro, problem solved.

Originally Posted by Diablo

If DLE fails to stock parts, it's likely some other Chinese company will start a business manufacturing and selling those parts. If there's a market, someone over there will fill it.

dont you know it has already started i guess thats why all of sudden dle thought why not even change the crankshaft on the dle111 and turn into dle111v2 so that if someone has to change things they have to buy the whole engine or the spare parts from the company and no copys people were already producing the dl100 parts and dle111 parts and they are equally good so the dle company is loosing profits on making enough parts i guess

Can anyone point me to a URL where I can find an exploded parts schematic of the stock carb for a DLE-111.

Even a video of a tear down and rebuild?

Unfortunately there is no such animal but I know these carbs better than anyone. If there is something you are trying to figure out or do, I'd be happy to help.

Originally Posted by Jedijody

Unfortunately there is no such animal but I know these carbs better than anyone. If there is something you are trying to figure out or do, I'd be happy to help.

Thanks Jody.

I removed the stock choke and throttle arms this evening a put on an aftermarket arm set. I just want to make sure I have the arms, relative to the butterfly plates, in the correct position. I've attached two pics, one shows the arms with the butterfly's in the fully closed position. I guess the throttle isn't fully closed as the butterfly is slightly opened for idle. The second picture shows the carb arm positions when the butterfly's are fully opened. I'm pretty sure the choke arm is correct. The throws are smooth, no binding that I can feel. The throttle arm seems aligned with the idle adjust screw as well. I have adjustment in both directions.

I'll know for sure tomorrow evening as I hope to run the engine for the first time. Thanks again.

You would have been better served by not removing the arm on the throttle. The spring that was under it is very important in stopping the butterfly from vibrating in the carb and wearing the side of the barrel. There is no way to put it back with that arm you have now. Best bet will be to cut a small piece of fuel line and place it on the shaft under the arm so there is a slight tension on the arm pulling it outwards. Otherwise it will not take all that long and you will be shopping for a new carb. When Jody logs on again he can fill you in or if he has any better ideas. In the pictures you posted I cannot tell if you have the butterfly set correct. For the choke the head of the screw holding the butterfly plate on should be facing outwards when the choke is closed. The butterfly for the throttle should have the head of it's retaining screw towards the engine. If you look up inside the carb with the choke open and the throttle closed you should be looking at the threads of the screw that retains the throttle butterfly. You will also need to visually set full throttle now as by removing the factory arm you have lost the high speed throttle stop. It will now travel past center and start to close again is why you will need to look inside the carb to set the travel for full power.

Originally Posted by Super08

You would have been better served by not removing the arm on the throttle. The spring that was under it is very important in stopping the butterfly from vibrating in the carb and wearing the side of the barrel. There is no way to put it back with that arm you have now. Best bet will be to cut a small piece of fuel line and place it on the shaft under the arm so there is a slight tension on the arm pulling it outwards. Otherwise it will not take all that long and you will be shopping for a new carb. When Jody logs on again he can fill you in or if he has any better ideas. In the pictures you posted I cannot tell if you have the butterfly set correct. For the choke the head of the screw holding the butterfly plate on should be facing outwards when the choke is closed. The butterfly for the throttle should have the head of it's retaining screw towards the engine. If you look up inside the carb with the choke open and the throttle closed you should be looking at the threads of the screw that retains the throttle butterfly. You will also need to visually set full throttle now as by removing the factory arm you have lost the high speed throttle stop. It will now travel past center and start to close again is why you will need to look inside the carb to set the travel for full power.

Super08, thanks for the response and cautions to be aware of. I checked the butterfly positions this morning, they are exactly as you described above.

We'll see if Jody has any suggestions regarding the spring, vibration and the high stop.

I think I can reinstall the stock spring over the new throttle arm. The mount hole in the side of the carb is usable. I'd need to drill a small hole in the new arm for one end of the spring; bend the end of the spring to 90 degrees and then place it through new hole. There is very little side-to-side play in the butterfly throttle, maybe this would provide enough tension to mitigate the vibration issue.

If I need a high stop for the throttle I think I could figure out a way to mount one on the carb plate somehow. If not I'll just have to make sure and set the end point correctly on my throttle servo.

Kinda of funny......I purchased the DLE-111 and Carb arm set for TBM. I sent them an email yesterday stating I was going to install the carb arm set and asked specifically about the tensioning spring and if using their arms would void my warranty or cause any operation issues. The response was "With the TBM carb arms you will not use the spring, there would be nothing for it to hook onto. Hope this helps."

Hopefully in their service department they haven't seen any accelerated problems/issues from using their carb arm kit. Ha.......live and learn. If I have issues, hopefully I won't, I'll replace the carb. Looks like the Walbro is a popular replacement option.

This is my first gas engine and airframe. Unfortunately you can't read all the threads and know exactly what to look for. But there is a world of experience and great support once you have a specific issue or question. Once again, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Other than hard start (solved with Megatron), I have no issues with the v1 111. What changed in the crank conversion and will this benefit me?

Well, megatron failed to start it last weekend due to cold. So, ordered the 4:1 pulley drive for the Megatron.

Originally Posted by Capt. Roll

Super08, thanks for the response and cautions to be aware of. I checked the butterfly positions this morning, they are exactly as you described above.

We'll see if Jody has any suggestions regarding the spring, vibration and the high stop.

I think I can reinstall the stock spring over the new throttle arm. The mount hole in the side of the carb is usable. I'd need to drill a small hole in the new arm for one end of the spring; bend the end of the spring to 90 degrees and then place it through new hole. There is very little side-to-side play in the butterfly throttle, maybe this would provide enough tension to mitigate the vibration issue.

If I need a high stop for the throttle I think I could figure out a way to mount one on the carb plate somehow. If not I'll just have to make sure and set the end point correctly on my throttle servo.

Kinda of funny......I purchased the DLE-111 and Carb arm set for TBM. I sent them an email yesterday stating I was going to install the carb arm set and asked specifically about the tensioning spring and if using their arms would void my warranty or cause any operation issues. The response was "With the TBM carb arms you will not use the spring, there would be nothing for it to hook onto. Hope this helps."

Hopefully in their service department they haven't seen any accelerated problems/issues from using their carb arm kit. Ha.......live and learn. If I have issues, hopefully I won't, I'll replace the carb. Looks like the Walbro is a popular replacement option.

This is my first gas engine and airframe. Unfortunately you can't read all the threads and know exactly what to look for. But there is a world of experience and great support once you have a specific issue or question. Once again, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

The engine tech people at TBM are no better than the ones at Tower/Hobby Services, some times, as in this case they are worse, they don't know their azz from a hole in their head.

Give me a little time this morning and I'll get back to ya.

Originally Posted by Jedijody

That is correct, if any single part in an older model crankcase needs to be replaced, ALL of it has to be replaced.

Crankcase, crankshaft, bearings, prop hub, woodruff key.

None of the new version parts are compatible with any of the old version parts and DLE no longer supports service parts for the older version.

Did thousands of older rev but still under warranty DLE 111 owners just get screwed?
Or is this a case where if something fails in the previous generation crank, that the authorized repair facility will have to replace the entire crank case/crank assembly for the warrantied customer?

Originally Posted by Cryhavoc38

Did thousands of older rev but still under warranty DLE 111 owners just get screwed?
Or is this a case where if something fails in the previous generation crank, that the authorized repair facility will have to replace the entire crank case/crank assembly for the warrantied customer?

No.

Yes.

Originally Posted by Jedijody

No.

Yes.

thanks!

Time to order up the crank/crankcase assy from Tower so I can build a DLE-111 from my spare parts left over from a 1st gen DLE-111 that had a bad crank.

Originally Posted by Capt. Roll

Super08, thanks for the response and cautions to be aware of. I checked the butterfly positions this morning, they are exactly as you described above.

We'll see if Jody has any suggestions regarding the spring, vibration and the high stop.

I think I can reinstall the stock spring over the new throttle arm. The mount hole in the side of the carb is usable. I'd need to drill a small hole in the new arm for one end of the spring; bend the end of the spring to 90 degrees and then place it through new hole. There is very little side-to-side play in the butterfly throttle, maybe this would provide enough tension to mitigate the vibration issue.

If I need a high stop for the throttle I think I could figure out a way to mount one on the carb plate somehow. If not I'll just have to make sure and set the end point correctly on my throttle servo.

Kinda of funny......I purchased the DLE-111 and Carb arm set for TBM. I sent them an email yesterday stating I was going to install the carb arm set and asked specifically about the tensioning spring and if using their arms would void my warranty or cause any operation issues. The response was "With the TBM carb arms you will not use the spring, there would be nothing for it to hook onto. Hope this helps."

Hopefully in their service department they haven't seen any accelerated problems/issues from using their carb arm kit. Ha.......live and learn. If I have issues, hopefully I won't, I'll replace the carb. Looks like the Walbro is a popular replacement option.

This is my first gas engine and airframe. Unfortunately you can't read all the threads and know exactly what to look for. But there is a world of experience and great support once you have a specific issue or question. Once again, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Super08 gave you the straight scoop, hacking off the stock arm and removing the spring was a bad move. DLE sends a very functional, easy to install metal arm with the engine. If that was not available one can be whittled out of a piece of sheet brass in about 15 minutes. But, there is still a way to use the Troy Broke Models throttle arm without the spring.

For the choke, just orient the arm for the direction of operation and lock it down with the set screw. The choke has a detent ball and spring under the shaft that holds it in the open position and prevents it from wandering side to side to wear on the valve and carb body. The throttle is a different story.

The function of the spring is to hold tension on the "C" clip on the other side of the throttle shaft. This keeps the throttle valve centered in the throttle bore at all throttle settings along with giving it cushion against vibration. You won't have the cushion any more but the shaft and valve can be centered and held there.

Remove the TBM arm from the throttle shaft, rotate the throttle valve fully closed, be sure the valve retaining screw head is facing the reeds. Put the TBM arm back on while holding the throttle valve tightly closed, push the TBM arm tightly against the carburetor body, orient the arm in the correct position for operation in your application, lock the arm down with the set screws.

Key points

• Keep the throttle valve tightly closed through the whole process.
• The throttle arm must be touching the carb body when the throttle valve is closed.
• If the shaft bottoms in the throttle arm socket before it touches the carb body, either use a spacer to take up the gap or shorten the throttle shaft.
• If there is interference between the TBM arm and the carburetor body when rotated to full throttle, make the necessary clearance by removing material from the arm, not the carburetor.
• Since the WOT stop function of the stock arm was removed, you will have to judge WOT position by sight.
• Remove the idle speed adjustment screw from the carburetor and throw it in the trash. Idle speed will be set with the Tx.

Originally Posted by Jedijody

.................still a way to use the Troy Broke Models throttle arm without the spring.

Key points

• Keep the throttle valve tightly closed through the whole process.
• The throttle arm must be touching the carb body when the throttle valve is closed.
• If the shaft bottoms in the throttle arm socket before it touches the carb body, either use a spacer to take up the gap or shorten the throttle shaft.
• If there is interference between the TBM arm and the carburetor body when rotated to full throttle, make the necessary clearance by removing material from the arm, not the carburetor.
• Since the WOT stop function of the stock arm was removed, you will have to judge WOT position by sight.
• Remove the idle speed adjustmeent screw from the carburetor and throw it in the trash. Idle speed will be set with the Tx.

Troy Broke Models......I assume that was intentional........LOL.....nice.

I appreciate the guidance and clear instructions. These things I can do as I there is nothing here beyond my capabilities or requiring tools I do not have.

Thanks Jody. I'll post an update once I make the adjustments.

Originally Posted by red_z06

Other than hard start (solved with Megatron), I have no issues with the v1 111. What changed in the crank conversion and will this benefit me?

Well, megatron failed to start it last weekend due to cold. So, ordered the 4:1 pulley drive for the Megatron.

There is no way you should have to use an electric starter for that engine.