Originally Posted by Vic3D

Regarding the strength question... If you assemble the airplane properly, use good glue, and sufficient torque on your servos, (and looking at John's build, I would be very confident to wring this plane out) you will have absolutely no problems with the airframe's strenth. It'll take anything you throw at it.

By the way John; That airplane is going to be a BEAST with those pipes!!

Thanks Vic. Its a pleasure to have you following this. I cant wait to fly this thing......

Originally Posted by rdgood

hummmm,

Do NOT - I repeat Do not do walls or extreme parachutes with this plane!

Its built light and lacks glue where it needs more especially in the spar area. I saw the aftermath.
I was there when it happened. I am also building one right now.
This is a light airplane and it performs IMAC type manuevers very well.
Its not built to be hammered around.

Do yourself a favor DONT do it!

Ronster

Hey Ron, I have a few things to show towards the end of the assembly. This is input that I have been gathering during the build.

Originally Posted by wyo69cowboy

Lookin' snazzy! Question on the headers: I think you stated you have a 70mm drop; I'm planning on a DLE170 and would like to use their header/canister setup, but am not sure of the drop of their headers. Just how much flex/how hard is it to "bend" the flex? Also, what does the teflon tape wrap do around the flex section?

The 70mm drop on the headers is nearly, if not dead center. Find the specs on the DLE and compare to a DA170. The flex movement side, side, up and down approx 30 degrees. It does not actually bend to offset the radius. The most important feature of the flex is it absorbes vibration and keeps the headers from cracking. As for the Teflon, it provides a seal for the flex. It does leak and is essential.

Originally Posted by wyo69cowboy

Lookin' snazzy! Question on the headers: I think you stated you have a 70mm drop; I'm planning on a DLE170 and would like to use their header/canister setup, but am not sure of the drop of their headers. Just how much flex/how hard is it to "bend" the flex? Also, what does the teflon tape wrap do around the flex section?

Go to the Valley View Hobbies website and pull town the DLE Header 3 view from their muffler section....... as I recall the drop as delivered is 70mm........... but their flex section is a "bendable" flex section that is semi rigid but can be bent +/- 1/2 inch and the cannister inlet is off-center so that as you rotate the cannister the inlet will rotate and move up or down/inward outward to optimize the connection. The outlet is on center so it stays there and the flexible exaust exit is then clamped on to the best outlet position for your aircraft. The header has a solid flex section and will require no wrapping.

Download or view the 3 View and it will probably make sense. Should work fine and the caister size is the same as the KS 95 wich is 75MM as I recall.

Thanks, I hadn't noticed the 3 view drawing in with the other photos on the page for the canister set. Sounds like that may just work fine. REALLY need to sell my H9 Extra/DA100 so I can buy the rest of this stuff for the Edge! Anyone lookin for a nice, used DA100?

Well, Im getting closer. Everytime I walk in the shop, I keep telling myself,......................soon, very soon. I am glad I started this thread, because every spare minute I have I slip off to the shop just to look or get something started so I can keep up with the posts.

Anyway, the cowl needs cooling. With the headers having no direct airflow, I figured it wouldnt hurt. I was dreading the thought of doing this given I knew I had to make a template forthe venting. I started to look around trying to find my construction paper, and I noticed the vented panels for the bottom of the fuse hanging on the wall. What do you know. It worked perfect.

One important tip. Cowl vents usually need to be supported depending on the glass. ARF glass, needs to be supported........... TRUST ME. As you can see in the photo, I supported the sections with carbon fiber tape soaked with thin CA. I have seen the troubles with venting breaking before. This is a simple fix.

The vents look good and are just the right size. The hole in the offset center is the choke hole.

You just think of everything, don't ya?? Very nice touch with that carbon.. True that, they weaken and crack off the paint real easy.

Originally Posted by jm_mac

Well, Im getting closer. Everytime I walk in the shop, I keep telling myself,......................soon, very soon. I am glad I started this thread, because every spare minute I have I slip off to the shop just to look or get something started so I can keep up with the posts.

Anyway, the cowl needs cooling. With the headers having no direct airflow, I figured it wouldnt hurt. I was dreading the thought of doing this given I knew I had to make a template forthe venting. I started to look around trying to find my construction paper, and I noticed the vented panels for the bottom of the fuse hanging on the wall. What do you know. It worked perfect.

One important tip. Cowl vents usually need to be supported depending on the glass. ARF glass, needs to be supported........... TRUST ME. As you can see in the photo, I supported the sections with carbon fiber tape soaked with thin CA. I have seen the troubles with venting breaking before. This is a simple fix.

The vents look good and are just the right size. The hole in the offset center is the choke hole.

Looks Very Good! I did the same thing with the cowl venting. Except that I put the Chevron's in the back center. You can sort of see them in the picture.

Be wary of the seams in the top and bottom cowl halves. Yeah take a look, there's a seam! Both of mine started splitting apart in the corners after a couple flights with loose prop bolts. My dumb ass mistake!

Originally Posted by Vic3D

You just think of everything, don't ya?? Very nice touch with that carbon.. True that, they weaken and crack off the paint real easy.

Thanks Vic. Im trying to get as many hassle free flights as I can.

Originally Posted by divad

Looks Very Good! I did the same thing with the cowl venting. Except that I put the Chevron's in the back center. You can sort of see them in the picture.

Be wary of the seams in the top and bottom cowl halves. Yeah take a look, there's a seam! Both of mine started splitting apart in the corners after a couple flights with loose prop bolts. My dumb ass mistake!

I saw that. In fact it already got the thin CA treatment. One thing about ARF fiber glass, it soaks up thin CA good. You have to be careful though!!!! Been there done that, if you know what I mean.

Originally Posted by jm_mac

One important tip. Cowl vents usually need to be supported depending on the glass. ARF glass, needs to be supported........... TRUST ME. As you can see in the photo, I supported the sections with carbon fiber tape soaked with thin CA. I have seen the troubles with venting breaking before. This is a simple fix.

The vents look good and are just the right size. The hole in the offset center is the choke hole.

When looking from the front of the plane won't those bottom vents on the cowl actually back air up rather than extract it out??

Originally Posted by RTK

When looking from the front of the plane won't those bottom vents on the cowl actually back air up rather than extract it out??

No, considering there is more rear exit flow.

Originally Posted by divad

Looks good!
My cowl test fit was the same.
I also used the button head screws.

Have you checked out the fit of the canopy yet?
This is where we had the most trouble.
There are two problems.
The canopy bottom is not straight, and will not lay down flat on the fuse.
The second problem is the rear of the canopy arch will shift in flight, getting caught on the edge of the turtle deck arch.
The other thing that happens when the canopy shifts in flight, is the rear corners of the canopy get bent causing some ugly creases in the floor.
You can see in the photos that I added a piece with lightening holes to the back of the canopy to make it more rigid.
And to fix the canopy shifting problem added the arch to the turtle deck dome. This perfectly mated the canopy to the dome when put together. If you have a better idea go for it, because you will have to do something!
It's a really big canopy dome and it does pop in and out in flight, you will hear it happen!

Hey!!!!!!!! Talked to Planebender today..............AND..................You hooooooooooooooked us up!!!!!!!! Thanks man!!!!!!! Its going in ASAP!!!!!! Im workin out in Benders "HOOD" (thats californian for an individuals neighborhood.......its a west coast thing.) Ill pick it up within the next couple of days and stick it in!!!!! Thanks again!!!! And thank you Dave..Your the man. You did it again bro.

My #1 choice for a fuel tank is the 3W 50 oz. from Aircraft International. I have used others and either they are to big or they fail. Its going to cost you $30 to get it to your door if you live on the west coast. To me thats an investment worth the cost. I know there are other options. This is my own "personal opinion" do what works for others or yourself. But, if you are in the air about a tank, this is a bullet proof option worth every penny.

Why I like it. First, the clunk. The clunk is filtered and weighted. It has a fine, cloth fiber like filter that surrounds a plastic cylinder that acts like a bubble-less fuel delivery system to the carburetor. Simple when you think about it.....Fuel saturated cloth fiber filter, with a cylinder that is always full of fuel no matter what attitude it is in the tank. Its weighs more than other clunks, thats a bonus to me. Weight worth having. It has a large diameter which doesnt allow for you to use it in other tanks.

As seen in the photos, I do not drill my hole in the center of the cap. I fully tighten the cap and drill top center with a 3/16" bit. There is a small mold dimple in the middle which has been a problem in the past for me. It can crack if you install the fitting there.

When installing the pick-up line I use Tygon. 3W provides you with a black fuel line. I have used it and It has failed within just a few flights. Lucky for me it was the fuel-defuel line that broke when I noticed. Took the cap off and the carb pick-up was cracked in several places also. Since then, I use Tygon. See the photos.

After the clunk is installed, I re-tighten the cap and drill 3/16" holes for the vent and fueling nipple locations on the center-top of the Bottle.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE FITTINGS!!!!!! SNUG THEM WITH LOCKTITE!!!!!! I cant stress this enough. You will know when you over tighten them. The fitings will swell the plastic and fitting like a pimple.....I KNOW THIS.......

Chief has some 5" wheels that are better than the stock ones and lighter.

Try this little trick:
Wheel collars SUCK no matter how you put them on.
This is how we got away from having to use them....
Dubro axles, with an aluminum sleeve and washer on the gear side. The aluminum sleeve is the spacer for the wheel. Drill a hole in the outer end of the axle, then use a washer and K pin to hold the wheel on.

We later made titanium axles to scrub yet a little more weight!
No more wheel collars, and the wheels are soooo easy to get off.

This is how mine is set up too.

Jm, where in the sticks do you fly? I too live in the the sticks, maybe close enough to fly together.................