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Old 06-24-2015, 03:49 AM
Greenfuelboy is offline
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Here is how mine is set up on my DLE 35 RA


Pinion: Rhino 12T .6 pitch 5mm shaft pinion gear was used "T-Rex 500 pinion". The pinion is long and it will not fit through EME starter bracket because it is bigger on one end. The pinion is wider at the set screw. I drilled the hold in the starter frame a couple drill sizes bigger but that probably was not needed to be done.

Turnigy 3548/1100 KV motor. This motor was over kill but it should work for the bigger motors too. I had to reverse the motor 5mm shaft and add a couple of flat spots for the set screws. I am not using a c-clip on the motor shaft. I am using a couple of brass washers for shims between the pinion and motor to take up the slack. That way the motor does not walk forward and back.

Spacer adapter: I had a spacer made for the motor. The motor has a 5mm shaft with a bolt pattern of 25 and 19. I used the 19mm pattern to bolt the motor to the EME starter frame. I used the other two bolt holes to mount the spacer to the motor with countersunk screws. Spacer thickness with my calipers was .310" but I could have it at .300" if I wanted to make the pinion stick out over the idle gear a bit farther.

After building this I had a thought I could have added a longer shaft to the motor and bolted the motor to the frame with out a spacer. But the pinion I choose is hard and not drilled all the way through at 5mm. So the pinion would not just slide on backwards for a easy installation. I will look for another pinion that is drilled all the way for my next build and see if it will work.


Rhino 12T pinion link below:
http://www.helidirect.com/rhino-gear...haft-size.html

Turnigy 3542/1100kv brushless motor link below:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=71642

Turnigy 60amp speed controller link below:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=71049

Turnigy nano-tech A-SPEC G2 2200 lipo battery link below:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=57419


PolyMax 3.5mm Gold Connectors for motor/ESC link below:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=64348
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Last edited by Greenfuelboy; 06-24-2015 at 04:51 PM. Reason: Repaired broken links
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Old 09-24-2016, 04:51 PM
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So I bought an EME 30 for my DLE 30, it worked great for about 30 startups. Then suddenly when I tried to run it today, it was just stuck both ways (not one way anymore). When I took it apart, I could tell that the the bearing had been damaged.

I just ordered a new sprag gear. And I REALLY want to know weather I should grease it, and if so, with what? One side looks like a normal ball bearing, the other looks different (cylinders and plastics and whatever, I presume these are responsible for the one-way). Can I grease both sides? I really DON'T WANT TO RUIN THIS NEW ONE TOO!
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Old 09-24-2016, 05:19 PM
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I greased mine with white lithium grease. I turned it over by hand to work the grease in the bearing where ever I could get it to penetrate. Then I wiped off the extra. I did not want to use heavy grease because I thought it might cause trouble in the winter when it is cold. The early version one oneway bearings had some trouble from what I have read. I think the older ones did not have a powder coated gear but I am not sure. If you got a older version one bearing that may have been the problem. My starter is about two years old now with no trouble. My buddy had a backfire and his one way bearing quit working. I used motor cycle chain lube on the electric motor gear train. I think it was PJ1 chain wax that dries white. I am not at home so I do not recall for sure. But it did not fly off the external gear and it works good. I put a brushless motor on mine with a spacer between the motor and mount plate. I use a Rhino T-Rex 500 pinion gear.

Happy flying I hope I have helped.
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Old 09-25-2016, 09:19 AM
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Motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenfuelboy View Post
I greased mine with white lithium grease. I turned it over by hand to work the grease in the bearing where ever I could get it to penetrate. Then I wiped off the extra. I did not want to use heavy grease because I thought it might cause trouble in the winter when it is cold. The early version one oneway bearings had some trouble from what I have read. I think the older ones did not have a powder coated gear but I am not sure. If you got a older version one bearing that may have been the problem. My starter is about two years old now with no trouble. My buddy had a backfire and his one way bearing quit working. I used motor cycle chain lube on the electric motor gear train. I think it was PJ1 chain wax that dries white. I am not at home so I do not recall for sure. But it did not fly off the external gear and it works good. I put a brushless motor on mine with a spacer between the motor and mount plate. I use a Rhino T-Rex 500 pinion gear.

Happy flying I hope I have helped.
What brushless motor did you use?
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Old 09-26-2016, 12:11 PM
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Link to motor:. https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=71642

My information is in post 331
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Old 09-26-2016, 03:36 PM
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link

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Originally Posted by Greenfuelboy View Post
Link to motor:. https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=71642

My information is in post 331
My phone didn't show that post for some reason. Thanks
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:43 PM
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You may need 4s for a 55 or 60cc engine though or risk backfire and poss sprag bearing damage, that was my experience when I ran a brushless motor.

Mine was a first gen 60cc setup that had a far too weak "tab" on the woodruff key and would shear at the slightest resistance/backfire. Unknown to me at the time there was a gen 2 bearing/hub/key that rectified the issue but no matter I made my own key and modified the which has proved to be quite reliable.

The first gen switch was terrible also, very prone to failure, I believe this too has been upgraded/resolved now with a gen two switch. A brushed esc does the job for stock motor but has no safety built in. A 30a brushless is fine for brushless motor.

Now the bugs have been solved its quite a dandy thing to have on your plane.

Here is my video from 2014, note I comment that the motor used is not up to the task and suggest a 3542 motor on 4s for reliable brushless starting on a 55/60cc.

EME 60cc electric start brushless conversion...
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:44 PM
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I have to ask. What is the motivation to put a brushless motor on the starter? Sensor less brushless motors are known to not start smoothly at times. This seems like a perfect application for a brushed motor. I do have one of these starters with the stock motor, and it works great.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by airbornrc View Post
I have to ask. What is the motivation to put a brushless motor on the starter? Sensor less brushless motors are known to not start smoothly at times. This seems like a perfect application for a brushed motor. I do have one of these starters with the stock motor, and it works great.
From the video, it would seems that the ESC and motor are well matched and start smoothly in this case. I would say the motivation is the same as using brushless motors in other applications. They are lighter and more efficient. Even for something used so infrequently, the weight savings is something to consider. The question is if that weight savings is offset by the need to use a heavier 4s pack to power it.

I haven't yet installed the starter that I bought when they first came out, but also wanted to go with a brushless setup if possible. I also wanted to use the same pack that I used for the ignition.
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Old 09-27-2016, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by airbornrc View Post
I have to ask. What is the motivation to put a brushless motor on the starter? Sensor less brushless motors are known to not start smoothly at times. This seems like a perfect application for a brushed motor. I do have one of these starters with the stock motor, and it works great.
When I done this it was to try lighten up the system and it did not save much weight in the end by the time a 4s lipo was factored in however it took some of the weight to nearer the COG.

The brushed motor does indeed work well for this application, just heavy upfront.
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:05 PM
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Idea since the motor is always linked to the engine why not tap into it for power generation to keep the on board batteries charged all times ? & simple 3 diode , capacitor and voltage regulator circuit will only be needed . am I thinking right ?
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by novemberalpha View Post
Idea since the motor is always linked to the engine why not tap into it for power generation to keep the on board batteries charged all times ? & simple 3 diode , capacitor and voltage regulator circuit will only be needed . am I thinking right ?
It would be a good idea, however the one-way clutch/bearing keeps the electric motor from being spun by the engine. I too was wondering if you use the motor as an alternator by just putting a gear on the engine and not a one-way bearing. I am not sure this mechanism is up to being used in a 100% duty cycle situation though.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:33 AM
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This is awesome, I knew a guy years ago had a onboard starter on his big nice Steerman bipe but i had no clue how he did it, and still don't but sure it was something like this... so you guys are buying the ones made for the 50cc planes and putting them on the 30cc planes?
I am looking into a big plane very soon and this is a must have for me.
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by epoweredrc View Post
This is awesome, I knew a guy years ago had a onboard starter on his big nice Steerman bipe but i had no clue how he did it, and still don't but sure it was something like this... so you guys are buying the ones made for the 50cc planes and putting them on the 30cc planes?
I am looking into a big plane very soon and this is a must have for me.
EME sells one for a 30cc and one for a 50cc because they are different.
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:51 AM
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EME sells one for a 30cc and one for a 50cc because they are different.
Thanks, I found it later after i had posted.
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