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#1 |
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Would be, if I could be
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Just wondering if anybody out there has built this model? High points, Low points, building or flying, anything at all that one should be aware of, or look forward to.
Thanks in advance Mick (Dont answer Rod, this info is for you hehehehe)
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Confuscious say... man who have model airplanes... needs a wife with job. NOW THAT HE HAS ONE FOR HIMSELF![]() Member of the TAS 2007 ROTW Boat Race Team (The WINNERS) ![]() ![]() IMAC Sequence Comittee IMAC Rules Comittee ASAA Life member www.scaleaeros.com.au Home of ASAA www.desertaircraft.com.au |
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#2 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lexmond - Netherlands
Age: 31
Posts: 6
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Hello there!
Last summer I build this thing. What's first to say?! Well the manual is crappy. That’s for sure. So, use your imagination and don’t glue anything before you double check everything when building. It is my first let's say, semi giant model and first to go into 3D. I haven’t got many flights on her jet because I’m still in the fine tuning stage, but that is coming to an end. About flying, it is smooth, slow, and forgivable. It is very direct on the elevator. Rudder is some what less direct, but that could be because I using a somewhat slow servo on the rudder. The engine I use is a MVVS 2.15 gasser which pulls about 21 pounds, while the plane goes around 10. So plenty power. But what is essential is keeping the weight down. So you could consider using the os 1.60 glow, which will gain about 1,5 pounds. On keeping the weight down, EMHW did an outstanding job. For example, the spars used in the wings are carbon fiber tubes! Besides this, the selection of wood is very calculated. They did a nice job on that! Also the laminated cowling is very light and strong. In building, I modified the following. The elevator halves are detachable and slide on two carbon fiber rods and are hold together with flying wires. I always have trouble setting up these wires, so the idea of detaching is useless in my opinion. Besides this, the construction is so light; the elevator halves are easy to twist with the wires. So I decided to get rid of the flying wires and glue the stabilizer to the fuselage and put 1,5 mm sheeting on them. This is much more ridged and I needed the weight in balancing anyway. Next, I reinforced the landing gear with some aluminum, and I made the exhaust tunneling a bit longer so I could fit my tuned pipe in it. Guess that's all. Oh yeah, take a very good look at the way you sand the leading edge of the ailerons because the hinging line is not centered and the ailerons are tapered in thickness. So a fault there is easy made... Here are some pics and if you wish, I have a couple of hundred other pics of the building progress (did an building thread on a Dutch forum) |
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#3 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 24
Posts: 2,768
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not the easiest build - but good quality - yes you have to be very aware of all the small detail
i used a moki 180/perry pump - 18x8 bolly - hitec 5645's and 5945 for rudder - TBM li ions - weight about 11 lbs - it is a floater and very forgiving - likes to do the slow 3d stuff - marvelous KE - hovers fine - a great plane - BUT with all the arf's on the market i will never do it again, way to expensive. still have it for show - pretty and so light we have several flying at our field |
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#4 |
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see the glass half full
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 586
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stoeptegel,
that's an extremely nice plane...what did you do the spalsh's out of? |
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#5 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lexmond - Netherlands
Age: 31
Posts: 6
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Well thank you for the compliment. I airbrushed it and used auto-air colors http://www.autoaircolors.com/ which work very nice (water based), extremely elastic and have a great layer binding. Completed it with some 2K clear coats to make it fuel resistant. Below is and picture which shows the base coat on which the color coats are applied. Inspiration came from the 3W extra's.
Huge job, but the result is nice. And indeed, as Adrian said, it is pretty expensive (I spend around 1000,- euros on her) but for me the hobby has two sides of which one is flying and the other one is building. |
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#6 |
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3D low n' slow!!
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that paint job is kick ass!!!
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#7 |
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Gettin' Lower!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: England
Age: 55
Posts: 68
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Been looking at this kit, but also looking at the Seb Art Funtana S140....
http://www.sebart.it/!-html/sebart_models.htm Good flying Tony |
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#8 |
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L'ectrics r COOOOOL!!!
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I am currently putting together the Aero-Models Funtana 1.40 which is the same as the Seba version however it is built for electric. It will have a PJS 3D8000 outrunner, CC HV-85, and Tanic 10s3p 5000's. I have heard nothing but good about this plane!
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www.castlecreations.com www.fliton.com www.tanicpacks.com Scott Pavlock "The best part about 2.4 is that it's freeing up 72!!" |
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#9 |
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L'ectrics r COOOOOL!!!
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Oh by the way....How did you guys mount your wings. Mine didnt come with a manual so I was wondering if anyone had some pics of their set-up???
__________________
www.castlecreations.com www.fliton.com www.tanicpacks.com Scott Pavlock "The best part about 2.4 is that it's freeing up 72!!" |
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