Extreme Flight E Yak vs Extra

[Wayne]

Only one is needed for the elevators.

[Freddy Warbird]

Go with the HS-65's. Don't compromise. Heck they are only $23.95. You will need four.

[Stainless Skills]

I looked and saw that the reccomended BEC only supplies 1.5 amps to the servo's and reciever. Is this correct? It does not seem like very much power but then I guess they are micro servo's.

[Freddy Warbird]

I'm running the Koolflight Systems Micro UBEC Available at RC World of Planes. It is a lot more robust than the Dimension Engineering Park BEC you are refering to. It will handle the needs of the Yak without a hick up. Supply in very limited, so pick one up ASAP. I have one on my ducted fan tigershark, and one in my Yak. The Koolflight Systems Micro UBEC's voltage is also adjustable. I love this little BEC.

[bodywerks]

I didn't care too much for how the Extra flew, so I would go with the Yak to do it again.

[Jaybird]

Your the first person I've heard of that wasn't blown away by the Extra. I sure was.

[aviti]

I have the Extra with the motor and ESC they recommend. It's a nice flying plane but I saw the Yak fly and it looked a lot lighter as far as wingloading. The Yak came out like 2 days after I got my Extra....I'd get the Yak if I could do it over again.

[Freddy Warbird]

I've owned both models. They are both very good flyers. In my opinion, the Extra is a better tumbler, and feels a little lighter on 3S than the Yak on 4S. The Yak on the other hand, flys straight lines better than the Extra. The Yak maintains a torque roll better than the Extra.

[bodywerks]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Jaybird
	Your the first person I've heard of that wasn't blown away by the Extra. I sure was.

It flew OK, but there was nothing about it that made it fly any better than stuff I already had. My mini Ultrastick hovers/torquerolls easier, all my fliton planes flew/fly high-alpha better and have way less coupling, and did rolling maneuvers better, IMO. It may have very well been in my setup or flying style, but if it takes more than 15 flights to get a parkflyer to fly right it just ain't worth it to me...by flight 16 it was up for sale.

[Stainless Skills]

Should I buy any new hardware for the servo's like small ball links or new servo arms? Would they aid in the smoothness of control or are all the stock linkages fine?

I ordered that KOOLFLIGHT Micro UBEC, it looked very nice and much more sturdy than that other one.

What kind of prop should I start out with and where can I get a spinner that would fit the motor easily?

I have never understood why you would use a larger prop with a 3 cell and a smaller 12'' prop with a 4 cell. Or is this just becaus ea larger prop would place more of a load on the motor and esc with a 4 cell battery? It would seem like a 4 cell would have the extra power to swing a larger prop.

Has anyone ever baffled the cowl or blocked off part of it with some balsa sheeting.

I think I am going to spray paint the whole motor box assembly a dark metallic blue along with the inside of the cowl. I might even try to use some thick CA and make two flat walls on the top and bottom of the airscoops with balsa sheeting. I might try and paint these to look like the real thing, it sounds easy enough, is this a good idea?

The tail wheel looks sort of weak to me, I dont know if it is or not but I have had many bad experiences with weak tailwheels on just about all of my planes and is there are stronger one that any of you use?

[bosshoss]

Smaller prop for the the larger cell count. You want to prop up the 3cell to get maximum rated amps from the power system. That goes for all setups , the 4s just needs less prop to do that.

THe tail wheel on the Yak needs an update if you are flying off a rough surface.

Use a pin hinge with the tail wheel wire as the hinge pin, 90deg bend forward into the fuse. That way all the force is on the fuse, not the rudder and it's bottom CA hinge. Again, only neccesary on rough grass fields that might "grab" the wheel in a gopher hole and tear the rudder off.

There was no issues at all with the Extra's flying capability, only the setups by the people who built them, IMO. Mine , built stock first, with a hobby shop audience no less, was well documented , and I pulled no punches when writing about it, and was grilled like a shrimp on the barbie by the "kangaroo fan court".

However, many peeps had the same issues, and with good modeling skills, a little help from the helpful people here and elsewhere , those issues are non-exsistent for those that are willing to read about something before they build. Just like we are doing here, with a lot less mishaps.

The Yak is great, and I am going to need more batteries. More batteries, more batteries.

Anyone try the Polyquest 2150 4s from Hobby lobby??? I wonder if it really is a bargain, or if it will fall on it's face when pushed??

[Jaybird]

Its a Yak, skip the spinner It's just weight that is not needed. Skip all the other stuff too, Weight adds up quick on a small electric model!!

The tailwheel (if it's the same setup as the extra) is a little iffy though. I never had any trouble but I can see how it could be rough on the rudder hinges.

[Freddy Warbird]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Stainless Skills
	Should I buy any new hardware for the servo's like small ball links or new servo arms? Would they aid in the smoothness of control or are all the stock linkages fine? I ordered that KOOLFLIGHT Micro UBEC, it looked very nice and much more sturdy than that other one. What kind of prop should I start out with and where can I get a spinner that would fit the motor easily? I have never understood why you would use a larger prop with a 3 cell and a smaller 12'' prop with a 4 cell. Or is this just becaus ea larger prop would place more of a load on the motor and esc with a 4 cell battery? It would seem like a 4 cell would have the extra power to swing a larger prop. Has anyone ever baffled the cowl or blocked off part of it with some balsa sheeting. I think I am going to spray paint the whole motor box assembly a dark metallic blue along with the inside of the cowl. I might even try to use some thick CA and make two flat walls on the top and bottom of the airscoops with balsa sheeting. I might try and paint these to look like the real thing, it sounds easy enough, is this a good idea? The tail wheel looks sort of weak to me, I dont know if it is or not but I have had many bad experiences with weak tailwheels on just about all of my planes and is there are stronger one that any of you use?

Here Stainless. This is my build thread on the Yak. Scan the first 10 pages. It will tell you everything you need to know.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=579706

[Stainless Skills]

great, that is just what I needed. I dont really want a spinner either.

I was also looknig at the Polyquest 2150 4s. It is something like $80 or $88 and that is alot cheaper than the other batteries, would it be a good idea to get this one or are the cells made by a different manufacturer that might not be as reputable.

[Jaybird]

Also, on my extra i used 2-56 ball links and made up a elevator pushrod because the stock setup had a little slop. I also used Spiderwire 30lb test braided fishing line for the pull-pull. Lighter and easier to work with than the included steel cable. I used the stock hardware on the wings.