Futaba 9ZA WCII,,,help setting up on heli!!!!

Hey guys need some help setting my airplane Radio on a Raptor 50,,,I know the radio but all the heli staff it's new for me,,,need pretty much step by step setting it up for the heli,,,I been playing with it but it's like starting all over agaion.

Anyone with the same setup on a 9Z WCII???

OK, let's see how good I know my radio! I'm going to be sad if I can type all this without even looking at it.

SYS menu:
MDL - new model

MDL menu:
RST - All settings
TYP - Heli (this will set up all the default mixes and swash type, with a Raptor, the default is what you want)
MNA - Name that puppy
PMD - PCM or PPM
FNC - Set all the trims to the correct trimmers, as some have cross trims on by default. While you're in there, go to all the channels above 5, press CTR, and null out the controls
CUT - Active, SWT, and choose the switch you want for throttle cut, the default value for cut itself will probably work

CND menu:
PHV - Inhibit
THV - Inhibit
P->R - Inhibit
R->T - Inhibit
GYR - Active, Duo, SWT, select switch for it, this is where you set up your gyro values. You don't say what you have, but most people start with the GY401, I start with a value of 85% on one, and 25% on the other.

There, that's the basic setup, everything will be in a straight line, and active the way you want it to be. Turn on the heli and the radio and move the sticks, make sure everything is moving the right direction, and reverse if need be. If you follow the manual for the Raptor, your servo arm lengths should be pretty close, same with the links, so put the sticks to center and put the horns on at 90 degrees. The throttle is a little different. bring the throttle trim all the way down, and then set the linkage up so that it is completely closed at bottom, half at middle, open at full. Then use the trim to set idle speed, since it only effects the bottom part of the throttle curve. At this point, I also like to check the gyro reverse, (assuming you've got a 401) with the switch for the gyro all the way back like it would be when you turn the radio on, turn on the heli and look at the light on the gyro. If it is not solid red, then reverse the gyro channel (Channel 5).

ATVs and dual rates etc are the same as they are on planes, the only thing really different is the throttle curves and pitch curves. Check out the Raptor Technique, they can walk you through that.

After that, it's all just regular setup. Check out www.raptortechnique.com for more info, they have a lot of specific Raptor stuff, but what I typed above is how to get a 9Z up and running.

thanks for all that info,,,and yes I was having lot's of trouble with the Gyro rudder movement,,,since I had the P->T active and I didn't know what was happening since the Rudder servo wasn't moving the way it was sopoused to.

Ok since I didn't mention before my setup is:

Raptor 50 Titan
Os 50 hyper
futaba 401/ 9254
Futaba S9451 all arround
9ZA and waiting for a PCM RX for now I'm just setting everything up with an FM RX I had
Batteries Arizona REG. from Fromeco and liions.

Ok now would be nice mroe specific number from your radio,,so I can copy them o mine!!!!

I think I'm gonna start over again and redo everything again,,,,oooohh are you guys using idl-up 1 and 2 or just Normal and idl up1,,,since I have the Air version of the radio I only have 2 position there.

Sorry, I don't do Raptors anymore, so (in best Soup Nazi voice) NO NUMBERS FOR YOU!

I'll tell you, every time I try to setup a new heli just by modifying an existing one, something gets messed up. If you just go through it the way I said above, it'll take you about 15 minutes to set up the heli, and you'll be golden, especially since you have a 401, you'll be able to take off, and the tail will hold, and everything will be happy.

I personally just use 1 idle up, since I also have the airplane version. Generally you use 2 idle ups for 2 different headspeeds. I use a governor, and have the speed on a different switch, so when I want a lower headspeed in idle up for low inverted hovers and the like, I flip a switch. It works better for me that way. Just make sure when you set your throttle hold up (oops forgot to tell you to do that!) Here it is:

MDL menu
HLD - active, I like 10% delay, and set the switch to the top switch on the right closest to the front. Set it so all the way back it's off, and both of the forward positions are on. That way if you flip through the first, it doesn't matter.

That'll do throttle hold. In general, Raptors are pretty easy to set up well, they kinda just fall together. For your throttle curves, since you don't have a governor you will want to turn down the points, as the Hyper will overspeed the head. On normal mode, set the high point around 80%, then go down from there. I don't use a straight line on normal, so it'll spool up smoothly as the collective comes up to zero pitch at mid stick, so at midstick it's around 40% or so, then straight from there up to the 80% high point. Those numbers aren't dead on, they all take playing, but it's what I generally start with on a Hyper 50 heli. For Idle up, you'll probably want about 85% on both ends, tapering down to around 50% center stick. When i don't have a governor on a hyper, that's how I set it up with a mix so with cyclic it adds throttle so it doesn't bog in aerobatics. But, I'm guessing that you are just starting out, so don't worry about that, it'll be some time before you start 3d-ing it, and you can worry about that later. Those numbers I gave you above should keep you from overspeeding, you'll probably end up around 1800RPM headspeed in idle 1, and 1700 in normal. Those are safe on woodies, but at the upper range of what you should spin them, so if you like to play it safe, you can go lower still.

thks a lot ,,that a lot of help,..

and no I don't have a Governor yet,,,maybe when I start with 3D I mighrt get one but the first upgrade I want to do on the Titan it's the Metal head.
I new to helis,,,just been flying the blade CP for a while,,never crashed yet,, have done loops and rolls but that's it with it. I can fly the heck out of G3,,, upside down foreward and backward and upright backward also.

Talking about the radio some more,,, I started all over again from cero and when I got to the part to set up the GYR I don't have the option to choose what switch to use to turn the gyro on and off and it set it on the Switch SWh ( the longest switch on the Top right) and I wanted it on the spring loadad switch so I can turn it of by mistacke unless I hold the switch.
An I can fifure out how to change that I don't have the SWT option on the GYR menu,,,,,,what am I doing Wrong????

Yesterday when I was setting everything up for the first time I got to turn the Gyro on and off with that spring loadaded switch but now I can't it put the switch on the Trainer side and that's where I had my throttle cut already set up.
Also my manual didn't say anything about the GYR and the option DUO(Dual) and on the Radio I do have it and it works fine what does it means??? or why I have to use that instead of the other ones??? like the LIN or the NORM

Also what about the travel on the rudder servo what should I do there????

You change switches in the MDL menu under FNC. The Gyro is channel 5, just select it, press CTR, and choose your switch.

The reason your manual doesn't have anything about DUO is because Futaba never put out a new manual when they upgraded the 9z to the WC, then the WC2. They just put out addendums, you're probably missing them. You can DL them from Futaba's site if you really want them, there's not much in there, but it'd be handy for reference, I guess.

On setting up the rudder travel, follow the instructions on Raptor technique. It's a pretty easy step, they've got instructions all typed up there for you.

Thanks a LOT MAN!!!!!! you'r the man!!!!!!! just got it switched!!!! and you know what I have done that in the past I just didn't know how to get to it now!!!! woohoooooooo!!!!

now everything seems to work pretty well except the negative pitch on the idl-up mode it was +11//-11 and some how I'm not getting -11 now and the Pitch curve it's 100% both ways,,My travel it's set at 60% up and down should I play with the travel down??? to get the -11deg on idle up????

Not a problem, the 9z killed me for months figuring things out, then one day it just clicked.

On setups, I like using +-10. I set it up so that I can get that mechanically with all ATVs at 100%, that way I end up with 0 at center stick, and it's all perfectly symmetrical, and stays the same no matter what mode I'm in. I prefer +-10 on the 50s, because even though it will pull 11, with 10 there's a little more headroom for when you bang the cyclic in or are slopy with the collective.

If it were mine, I'd start at 100 and 100 on the pitch AT, then put the horn at exactly 90deg with the stick in the middle and a straight line 0 - 100 pitch curve. Keeping that there, using the linkages get the blades at 0deg pitch, and all of the mixing arms etc at 90 degrees as well. It takes a bit to get that all right, since you have to deal with multiple links, but it's worth it. Once you've got that, put the stick at the top, and read your pitch, it'll be the same at the bottom. If you need more, then do it mechanically by moving the ball out on the servo or in on the aileron servo tray that it attaches to (or on the bellcrank for the push pull since you have a titan).

If you mess wtih the ATVs on the pitch beyond a point or 2, you start losing resolution, and other gremlins can show up. Take the time to get it all right with 100%, everything at 90deg, and 0 at center stick, and the heli will fly worlds better. I was astounded the first time I took a heli and redid the setup with everything symmetrical and done right, it's so much easier to fly, and more predictable it's incredible.

BTW, don't forget on the 9z, Idle up is another condition, so what you do on normal you need to do on idle up as well. I try to get it all setup and test flown in normal mode to get things dialed in, then go to the MDL menu and CPC to copy the normal condition to Idle Up. That way all the settings are the same, all I have to adjust is the throttle curve.

Have fun with that Rappy, it's a nice heli and will serve you well.

and talking about the Contition I notice the throttle hold it's also a condition,,but I set i up the way you said,,,should I do the throttle hold as a Condition????

That's one of those grey areas for me, I know it's another condition, but I've never messed with it directly. I've never copied anything into it, it seems to take the settings of whatever condition you are already in when you flip the switch. I know that you can change things in it directly, but I never have. It just works the way it comes.

Ok got it,,I may start all over again now that I know where to go on the Radio and set it up that way first so I can leave the ATV at 100% or very close sinceI only have them now set to 60% so the Pitch arm doesn't bind on top or bottom,,,I was afraid to go away from the number that the Raptor manual tells you to build the pushrod lenght,,,,,so I guess the lenght as per the book really doesn't have anything to do and I can go ahead and chame them right??// to get everything mechanically center without touching the Radio right???

You can do it however you want, I'm just saying how I do it, and how I teach the guys who come to me to do it. I've always found the lengths in the book to be in the ballpark, but not exactly right. It'll fly the way you have it, but it'll fly better if you do it all mechanically, and when you move onto 3d, it'll really make a difference. I figure you may as well start out doing things the right way, and not go through all the trial and error that I went through.

It's a real thing of beauty to build a heli, and have it fly perfectly the first time without any trimming. Since I've started doing it all mechanically (in the last year and a half or so), balancing and leveling everything, all my helis have taken off the first time and not needed any trim, upright or inverted. It really is worth the time.