Comp's and Can's

[CSpaced]

When I spoke to DA they told me that after the first flight to check the cans as they may slide back. After a couple of flights (and checking after each one) and letting the headers get hot and then cold a couple fo times, the teflon couplers should start doing their job properly.

[OnTheEdge]

The trick I've found is to clean the headers and couplers real good when new. Toss out the clamps that DA sent you and use automotive type hose clamps. After your very first flight with the new headers/canisters/coupler, retighten IMMEDIATELY after your first landing while everything's still hot.

[RustyTumbles]

I am using the stock equipment that DA supplied with my canister. I ran the motor at a high idle for 10min then let it cool completely, then repeated the process. The coupler has never leaked. I did have some trouble with the can turning in the mount, but I fixed that with some extra silicon exhaust tubing cut up and put in between the can and the mount.

[notorious_benny]

Like rusty said. If you go and run your motor straight up to full throttle the coupler never has the opputunity to seal.

Heat cycle your motor three or four times letting it cool completely before going above half throttle and you should be fine.

[jaguar bone]

I'm getting the perception I should not have used the "Ultra Copper High Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker" between the teflon sleeve and the pipe(s). Keep the connection pure stainless steel to coupler?

I just love the lack of instructions provided with some of this stuff.
Calling all these places during the work day for Q&A is not so easy for some. *** Thank goodness for the 24/7 internet and FLYING GIANTS!!.

Update - - -
I took the cowl off late last night to find these horrendous conditions. The can is now all dented at the supports, the coupler is in need of replacement , missing one clamp. So fun to learn what you don't know you need to know - the hard way. I'm border lined sick at the sight.

*** Did I mention the company I purchased from has yet to reply to the questions I posted on their service - three / four weeks ago?

[CSpaced]

That looks pretty nasty! I'll be checking mine every flight for a while...

[Andy540T]

Here are the 2 things I do when installing new canisters:
1. I get the coupler and the end of the header really clean, and then I cross sand the header and coupler to provide friction.

If it still come off,

2. place a piece of wood with some red rtv on it at the back of the canister to prevent it from moving back in the mount.

[SpgBob]

the couplers are quite easy to work with, take the coupler, cans and headers inside, get a pot of boiling water and put the couplers in the water, boil for 2 or 3 min, or until they get softer. take it out with some tongs and with a glove on slip it onto the can and header. let cool for 15 min. dont move or twist the can or header

i have used this method for a while now and even when the clamp broke the coupler never moved or ever came off.

kevin

[SpgBob]

if you want go search Comp 260 build, there are many pictures there of my build hope it helps.. here are some others

[CSpaced]

Thanks for all the info, and the great pics!

I just cut the cooling slots out in my Edge.

[jaguar bone]

Monitoring the install at the field after flights is a good plan. Shame on me. Again - I just didn't ever think this would / could be a concern. The install was so solid! - Ha!!

My plan after talking with Troybuilt will be to add screws thru the slots of the two spring clamps and wire them together. I'm adding a second bulkhead support since the can has been dented at the original contact points allowing for possible vibration. I'm considering a block at the back of the can but first concern would be for more denting and the can ultimately still moving. You can stare at this KS canister real hard and create a dent! I believe wiring the two together and a new bulkhead should be sufficient.

Nothing beats lessons from negative experience.

Richo & CSpaced - Sweet install!