OK I'm drooling. Who makes this one.

[MikeC3D]

It does look nice.

[sukhoi26mx]

I've had less than stellar luck ordering from Jason at SD-Models. What's up with him being in the midwest, but the warehouse on the West Coast? Several phone calls unreturned and emails unanswered. SD-Models needs to get on top of the ordering/shipping for me to be a customer again.
Scott

[3-d flyer]

http://www.wildharerc.com/Products/E.../extra121.html



That plane from SD looks sweet for sure!! Here's another in the same price range, just got mine last week, my next project.... Plane is awesome, not to mention all the hinging is done for you, covering was flawless, should be a great plane!!

[T. Bob]

I bet it's fat.

[Freddy Warbird]

I Purchased my SD 260 today From TBM. Sliver. blue, red scheme. Bill's a good guy! Got the combo package. Good deal! Can't wait to have it in my hands, and get started on it. Whoooooooooo Hooooooooooo!

[Freddy Warbird]

Got my SD 260 in the mail today. This thing was packed very well. I pulled all the content out of the crate, and inspected everything. There isn't a single rinkle in the covering anywhere. The fuse is a super light structure, and SD did a excellent job leaving weight out while maintaining a rigid airframe. I esspecaily like the the built up wing panels over foam. It keeps the model light. That is one of the reasons why I enjoy flying the H9 33% Edge so much. "Light structure." All of the hinge points are perfectly cut. -Nice touch- for an ARF. The model is going to be assembled similar to the one in the built thread here on Flying Giants. DA 150 with standard muffers, Seiko servo for the rudder, HS-5955TG's all the way around, SWB arms, with an Airwild arm for the Seiko. Smart fly electronics, Airwild extensions, RC Blimp tail wheel from Shawn is a must along with his carbon spinner. I like the appearance of the Biela three blade hollow carbon prop, so that is what's going on it. I can wait to get started on the assembly, but I need to make some room in my garage first .

[JeeUm]

	Quote: Originally Posted by sukhoi26mx
	I've had less than stellar luck ordering from Jason at SD-Models. What's up with him being in the midwest, but the warehouse on the West Coast? Several phone calls unreturned and emails unanswered. SD-Models needs to get on top of the ordering/shipping for me to be a customer again. Scott

Really? I've found him to be very accommodating. And to be truthful my order has been kinda of a PITA for him.

[Freddy Warbird]

OK.... where's the assembly manual

[Freddy Warbird]

I have worked with Robart pin style hinges before, and have found gluing them in with Gorilla glue is really a nice way to get the job done. I find it to be the best way for the Robarts.Clean up is a snap! -Epoxy- on the other hand, is difficult, and tends to crack with time. I'd rather not use it.

My new SD Extra 260 comes with "flat nylon hinges," and typically they are glued in place with epoxy. The thought of this bugs the hell out of me. Pain the the A$$, plus cracking, and losening up with time. I have seen it before.

Question: has anyone used the exanding foam type glue (Gorilla Glue) to glue in the flat style hinges? If not, is there a better method/glue for these hinges rather than epoxy? Or, but this will be labor intensive, Should I just seal up all of the pre-slotted hinge lines with balsa, and re-drill for Robarts?

[JeeUm]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Freddy Warbird
	I have worked with Robart pin style hinges before, and have found gluing them in with Gorilla glue is really a nice way to get the job done. I find it to be the best way for the Robarts.Clean up is a snap! -Epoxy- on the other hand, is difficult, and tends to crack with time. I'd rather not use it. My new SD Extra 260 comes with "flat nylon hinges," and typically they are glued in place with epoxy. The thought of this bugs the hell out of me. Pain the the A$$, plus cracking, and losening up with time. I have seen it before. Question: has anyone used the exanding foam type glue (Gorilla Glue) to glue in the flat style hinges? If not, is there a better method/glue for these hinges rather than epoxy? Or, but this will be labor intensive, Should I just seal up all of the pre-slotted hinge lines with balsa, and re-drill for Robarts?

Gorilla glue works, a syringe helps a bunch. Also, guys have great luck with Pacer hinge glue. I personally still just use 30 minute epoxy. I prefer these types of hinges over the hinge point types myself.

Not sure why your having them crack and loosen up. Been using the Klett style hinges for years and never had one come loose or crack.

[Freddy Warbird]

	Quote:
	Not sure why your having them crack and loosen up. Been using the Klett style hinges for years and never had one come loose or crack.

Not the (Klett), or Robart ones. The flat nylon ones lossen up with epoxy.

[adrian]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Freddy Warbird
	Not the (Klett), or Robart ones. The flat nylon ones lossen up with epoxy.

i roughen the flat surface with heavy paper before applying the epoxy - it's smooth plastic or nylon, it needs roughing for the epoxy to stick well - i use both klett(flat) or robart with no problems!!

[adrian]

i also use gorrila - with the syringe method alla Jeeum - never had one come out!! or crack for that matter.

[torquen]

yep, the gorilla glue works great. Make sure you sand off the mold release so the glue sticks. Also tape your control on because they will tend to push out when the glue expands. If you clean up good once it expands you will not have a yellow tint around your hinge.
Garrett

[torquen]

Oh, before you get rolling with the pics maybe you can dedicate a thread just for the build. This way its very easy to do a search for the plane.
Garrett