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Old 02-17-2007, 06:01 AM   #1
KrisW
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Default WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Okay. .I'll start this thread, even though the plane has not reached my door yet.

Others building this plane are very welcome to chime in.

As the Thread title attests, this is a joint build thread from three different people, all using different setups, to show how the plane can be finished out in a variety of ways.

All I have seen of the Wild Hare 41% 300 is pictures. . never seen one up close and personal, and there have been a few videos floating around.

So. . . here I sit, waiting for mine to arrive. It's cold, the build table is empty, and I have a plethora of servos and radio gear already gone through in preparation for the planes arrival.

MY purpose is to get a really good flying IMAC style plane to terrorize the advanced flyers in the SE regioin with this year. To that end I'm going for the most dependable, least maintenance necessary, well-proven components/setup in the plane. A BIG plus is that I already have all these components on the shelf. .sitting here. . waiting on an airframe.

Engine: DA-150 w/KS 1090 pipes
Prop: Biela 29-12 3-blade
Servos: Ailerons-3x5945 HiTecs per side, Elevators-1x5955 HiTec per elevator, Rudder-2x5735 jumbo's, Throttle-1-4735 JR
Receivers- JR 649s
Battery setup- Fromeco Relion 4800's w/regulators and Badger switches for the radio gear, Standard JR switch and 2700ma 4-cell NiMH for ignition
Linkages and hardware: Either 10-32 Rocket City horns, or custom made formica doubled control horns. Linkages will be 6-32 threaded HD Dubro using 6-32 rods, or 4-40 w/.063 cf pullrods for rudder.

I'll be using a CG-located pull-pull rudder setup with center idler belcrank at mid-fuselage.

All this will be focused on moving the weight in the aircraft forward. Since I'm using the long KS-1090 pipes, there will be a substantial weight shift aft from where the exhaust usually resides under the motor box and in the cowl area. This requires removing tail weight, so minimal servo count in the tail is necessary, as is going over to the Pull-Pull system.

Airframe modifications I have already planned. . thorough cross-bracing of the fuselage in the area in the aft part of the canopy hatch, and under the turtle deck, Removal of the "accessory tray", putting the fuel tank on top of CG, and of course making the necessary mounting system for the pipes.

Now, if Airborne Sgt and RC pattern flyer would care to join me on this thread. . we can get things moving.
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Last edited by KrisW; 02-17-2007 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 02-17-2007, 06:36 AM   #2
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

This should be interesting Look forward to seeing the different setups.
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Old 02-17-2007, 06:38 AM   #3
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Quote: Originally Posted by RustyTumbles
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This should be interesting Look forward to seeing the different setups.
Ohhhhhhhhh.....it's going to be different alright
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:46 AM   #4
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Quote: Originally Posted by Dennis C
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Ohhhhhhhhh.....it's going to be different alright
LOL ^^^^^^^^^^^^^



Kris, I think you should go with a BME 115 just to see if it will fly and THEN put the DA in it.


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Old 02-17-2007, 05:48 PM   #5
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Hey folks. Mind if I chime in?I am working on my wings first and trying to figure out the best geometry for IMAC.I am using Rocket City 10-32 hardware and SWB 1.25" arms. Based on the lateral spacing between the pre-drilled hole in the aileron and the servo centerline, the first hole in from the end of the SWB arm (1 3/32") will put the pushrods perpendicular to the hinge line, so I don't want to go any shorter. The problem is that if I use 1.25" or even 1 3/32" the control horn must be very long in order to get the throw down to 30 degrees (assuming 55 degrees of servo travel). I would need to get 3" screws and the outer horn would stick out of the aileron 2" (the inner hard point is 1 3/8" thick and the inner is 1" thick). Also, the geometry gets wierd with the pushrod running away from the bottom of the wing toward the control horn.Just curious how you guys are going to do this to get good geometry and servo power.Cheers
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Old 02-17-2007, 06:13 PM   #6
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

I just found a servo program I got from MGalvin. I does aileron geometry. It looks like a 3" at the root and 2.5" at the out hole is the answer. Should get 30 degrees with 55 degrees of servo travel. Throw is reduced from what you'd think based on the kinda strange geometry in 2 planes of motion.The inner horn will be 3/16" closer to the surface and have 5/16" of extra thread showing above the control horn. Outer will have the control horn at the end of the 2.5" screw.
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Old 02-17-2007, 06:35 PM   #7
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Quote: Originally Posted by ShortBus
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LOL ^^^^^^^^^^^^^



Kris, I think you should go with a BME 115 just to see if it will fly and THEN put the DA in it.


It would fly it SB. . but not competitively, and that's what I want at this juncture.

Still waiting for Airborn Sgt and RcPatternFlyer to chime in with what they will/are doing.
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Old 02-17-2007, 06:40 PM   #8
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Quote: Originally Posted by OverTemp
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Hey folks. Mind if I chime in?I am working on my wings first and trying to figure out the best geometry for IMAC.I am using Rocket City 10-32 hardware and SWB 1.25" arms. Based on the lateral spacing between the pre-drilled hole in the aileron and the servo centerline, the first hole in from the end of the SWB arm (1 3/32") will put the pushrods perpendicular to the hinge line, so I don't want to go any shorter. The problem is that if I use 1.25" or even 1 3/32" the control horn must be very long in order to get the throw down to 30 degrees (assuming 55 degrees of servo travel). I would need to get 3" screws and the outer horn would stick out of the aileron 2" (the inner hard point is 1 3/8" thick and the inner is 1" thick). Also, the geometry gets wierd with the pushrod running away from the bottom of the wing toward the control horn.Just curious how you guys are going to do this to get good geometry and servo power.Cheers
What I will be doing is using my 5945 HiTecs with about 1.25" arms, equalizing the throws with the programmer after setting the control horns to the exact same length from the ailerons pivot point, then adjusting the end points and centers and mixes to get what I want in the way of total surface throw. I'll be shooting for a slightly better than 1.2:1 ratio for horn:arm length. That way with 40-45 degrees of servo movement in each direction I'll easily get the desired 30-35 degrees of aileron movement. I already have all the servos pre-programmed for 150 degrees of sweep, so unless there are linkage binds, I'll have a very long servo movement available if I want it.
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:39 PM   #9
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Kewl. I guess I was looking for a little better mech advantage. Probably not needed.
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:42 PM   #10
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Quote: Originally Posted by OverTemp
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Kewl. I guess I was looking for a little better mech advantage. Probably not needed.
There WILL be lots and lots of pics. . .
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:01 PM   #11
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Sorry guys but I am outta town, I will begin posting on Monday evening or Tuesday as time permits.

Great start btw, i will put together my gameplan with specifics when i start as well. and I get to add photos cause i got my plane, hahaha j/k

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Old 02-17-2007, 10:27 PM   #12
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

KrisW,

I got the PM. I will get back to you. I dont want to beat a dead horse but my setup is not all that unlike what everyone else is running. Main difference with mine is using the Seiko servo on the rudder. Tom's HW kit should be showing up Tues. I will have plenty of pictures also. I should just make a montage of the build.
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:36 PM   #13
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Quote: Originally Posted by airborneSGT
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KrisW,

I got the PM. I will get back to you. I dont want to beat a dead horse but my setup is not all that unlike what everyone else is running. Main difference with mine is using the Seiko servo on the rudder. Tom's HW kit should be showing up Tues. I will have plenty of pictures also. I should just make a montage of the build.
Now. .don;t be running away from a perfectly good party Sgt ! ! It's ALL good .. show us what you got, explain your reasoning and logic, and lets see how things work out!!

The FG is here for the sharing of knowledge. . comaraderie. . . exchange of ideas, and putting our heads together on things like this. I can think of NO better way for that to happen than for all of us to take pics and write things in these forums.

So, bring on your plane jane setup . .Plain is good. . KISS is always better, and if you have any techniques you prefer then share them. Someone will thank you for them later on, I'm sure.
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:53 PM   #14
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Quote:
KISS is always better
Better!!?~?~? BETTER!?!?!?!.. KISS IS the best!

You wanted the best you got the best. The HOTTEST band in the world!
KISS!!!


Da da Da da DA da Da da DA da DA da DUn DAAAAAA..... (insert rocking out)
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:55 PM   #15
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Default Re: WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

Quote: Originally Posted by SleepyC
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Better!!?~?~? BETTER!?!?!?!.. KISS IS the best!

You wanted the best you got the best. The HOTTEST band in the world!
KISS!!!


Da da Da da DA da Da da DA da DA da DUn DAAAAAA..... (insert rocking out)

Dude. . sometimes Random Emo Crap is NOT a good idea. . . .
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