WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

[nickb]

I just maidened my extra today. All it needed was 2 clicks of down and 1 right. You guys are in for a treat. Mine has a DA 150, MTW cans, 3 5955 in the rudder tray, 2 per wing, 1 per elevator, peerless 5600(2), smartfly turbo reg., and power expander pro. It balanced a little nose heavy on the back tube.

[OverTemp]

Awesome. That's my setup EXACTLY. Glad to know it flies well! Any pics of your radio and can installs?

[nickb]

My flash on my camera broke, so sorry, no pics. Everything mounted inside prety easily. I used the built in rudder tray and used an airwild bellcrank with the offset. I used 10-24 stainless bolts for all the controls. On the rudder, I crossed the cables and still had to use the long dubro (1"?) arm (the thing that screws onto the bolt). I made a ply spacer (1/2") for the motor (DA). I cut the headers (90mm) down to 10 1/2" (optimum length by DA). This let my stingers (MTW 110K) exit just forward of the 1st former. To get the cowl on and off, I have to unclamp the cans and turn the stingers horizontal. It just barely works, but I didn't have to cut anything off of the stingers. To keep them from slipping back, I just ran some large zip ties through some silicone tube that I secured through the gaps in the MTW mount (I used two of these, one at the very front and another pretty far back on the cans). Let me know if you have any more questions. Also, there's a download of a nice protractor on the DOD site that I printed and glued to a thin piece of cardboard and then carefully cut so that it fit perfectly centered on the servos. It made setting up the 5955 pretty easy. (once I figured it out).

[OverTemp]

These are my first cans... I've been resisting them until now (for some dumb reason).

Does it not break the seal with the teflon coupler if you unclamp/turn the can? I like to pull my cowl now and then to inspect things up front. I am almost tempted to sell the MTWs and get some KS rear exit cans.

[airborneSGT]

Picture time. Here are some shots of my shop a.k.a. my single car garage. You guys like my method of securing the tail of the plane?

[pcastine]

Kris,

Never saw any pics of how you're holding the KS cans down. What are you using to keep them in place? Here's what I did on my Yak - There are springs (not in the pic) stretching over the top of the pipe. The spring is run through a piece of silicone tubing to prevent metal-on-metal contact.

Hope to see you out at a contest soon with your new plane. Even though I've got the new Yak, I think I'll be sticking with my Comp-ARF for this season until I get some serious flight time on the new plane.

Pete

[KrisW]

	Quote: Originally Posted by airborneSGT
	Picture time. Here are some shots of my shop a.k.a. my single car garage. You guys like my method of securing the tail of the plane?

Gotta love the work belt and hammer on the tail Airborne. . . Next time someone complains about my dirty hands I'll just show them that pic. .

I got the rear saddles finished for the pipes last night, then constructed a support for the front of the pipes that fits around the couplers. The pipes are almost 3 feet long, so you get a lot of stress on the headers and flanges. By supporting the pipes, even lightly, you reduced that stress by a good margin.

I also set up my ailerons last night. The 5945's were preset on the bench for a max of 170 degrees of travel, and each has the exact same center and end points programmed into it. I'm using the stock HD arms that came supplied with the servos. They are over 1/8" thick, and very robust. The ball links are mounted on the UNDER side of the arms, to prevent flexing. Thru-bolts on the arms are 4-40x1/2 button heads, threaded through the holes, with lock nuts on the bottom side. since all the movement is going to be away fromt he arm, no offsets were used.

I'm using 6-32 All-thread for my control rods, screwed into the 6-32 thread DuBro HD ball links. All Horns are 10-32 Rocket City. when setting up the linkages, I shaved the bottoms of the "A" nuts for the inner and middle horn locations on the ailerons, and leftthe outer one full length. This way I had an approximate "taper" tothe horns that matched the differing thickness of the ailerons as they went from root to tip, and the amount of exposed horn screw was about the same for each horn . . .SHORT.

With the large amount of movement programmed into the servos, I have over 40 degres of aileron throw available at 100% ATV.

One thing that I noticed while setting the wings up, since Ihad to mount the wings upside down on the wing tube and flush to the fuselage sides to power them up, the hole in the fuselage for the servos leads is about 4" forward of the outlet from the wings. . It's a very bad mismatch, leaving you no place for your servo wires to pass through the fuselage side.

I cut a slot, using my Dremel, to make a channel in the wing root for the wires to pass forward. A simple piece of tape over the slot will keep the wiring from flopping around and geting pinched o out of place while the wings are put on the plane.


One thing to note about the installation, because the control horns locatios are pre-drilled, the horns go in perfectly straight .. NICE ! ! ! ! Combine this with perfectly matched servos, and all that is left is to match the length of the horns for no binding at the travel end points and you have a very good setup. It tok a grand total of 2 hours to setup the horns, install servos, and get the pushrods set to length.

In the first pic, you can see the ONLY damage done to the plane during shipping. . The rear of one wing root was slightly smashed inwards, probably from the shipping box for the wings being dropped on it's end. A little foam padding on the ends of the packing box would have prevented this. As it was, the only padding in the box was bubble wrap and some thin foam cloth like they wrap stereo equipment in.

[gdavisjr69]

All,

I've been watching this build thread, thought I'd send a link to some pics of mine I've been building as well. Almost done.... The big thing left is to finish the throttle servo, start and make sure the engine runs well, mount batteries, balance, etc. Overall, a great looking plane.

At the end are a few pics of Bill Hemple's plane finished and flying at the Masters.

Gerry Jr.

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/gerry_da...60762390393272

[gdavisjr69]

Question for everybody... Is there a hole in the back to allow the servo wires to exit out of the fuselage to connect to the horizontal stabs? I haven't found it yet under the covering. Still need to run the servo extensions to the back of the plane, but just glanced at it thus far and couldn't find an opening yet under the covering.

Gerry

PS--If I get another, I think the yellow version looks great!

[airborneSGT]

Kris,

Your aileron control horns seem to be the same as mine. I am not sure why people were getting bent out of shape about that. Mine are if anything longer than on my Carden which has flown for years. Today / tonight I have a lot of soldering to do.

Some of us actually work for a living. If that means dirty hands or having real working tools then so be it. The tool belt is fine as it has some nice padding on the inside. Its more of a framing tool belt than it is for carpentry but I like it. Of course lately I find myself running the business end of thing 95% of the time so it does not get used as much.

Weather is looking ok today and will hopefully be clear enough Thursday for a maiden.

[airborneSGT]

I dont think there is a hole back there. I did not have one on mine. Nothing a drill bit cant fix.

[gdavisjr69]

Yes, I've got a job as well and it takes me some time to get things finished. Between work, kids, etc, there are many days, even a week or two I don't do anything. Normally I don't post any build pics and so forth since I work at a crawl's pace.....

I've used the same linkage setup on 35% and other 40% planes for years and years, never a problem. Currently have two 37.5% Yaks up and flying with the same setup, not a problem.

Hopefully will have this one up and flying shortly. Let me know how yours flys when you get it up and going.

Gerry

PS--Where are you guys from? I live in Gastonia, NC--just outside of Charlotte. I noticed once lives in Charlotte and other listed as the Dirty South.

[airborneSGT]

I live in Delray Beach FL now. I used to live at Ft. Bragg and on the weekends in Kernersville.

[RC_Pattern_Flyer]

San Antonio texas here, and as someone earlier mentioned, i don't se anywhere for the stab servo wires to penetrate the fuse.. guess that would have become apparent later eh

Anyhow, off to work, going to try and set up the rudder tonight.

having never done a double pushrod setup on the rudder, what is the easiest way to program the servos so they dont bind? i am using 8611a and flying Futaba 8U.

Should i have one servo into each reciever or am going to use a matchbox setup?

thanks in advanve.

Chuck

[Shawn Berkheimer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by airborneSGT
	Kris, Your aileron control horns seem to be the same as mine. I am not sure why people were getting bent out of shape about that. Mine are if anything longer than on my Carden which has flown for years. Today / tonight I have a lot of soldering to do. Some of us actually work for a living. If that means dirty hands or having real working tools then so be it. The tool belt is fine as it has some nice padding on the inside. Its more of a framing tool belt than it is for carpentry but I like it. Of course lately I find myself running the business end of thing 95% of the time so it does not get used as much. Weather is looking ok today and will hopefully be clear enough Thursday for a maiden.

Usually when someone quotes a control arm length it is measured from hinge line to ball link pivot. In your earlier post I think you had quoted length from wing skin to ball link and that is what I beleive to have sparked the concern. As long as the distance between the hinge line and ball link center is the same or preferably greater than the length of the servo arm center to ball link you are fine.

Kris, at the beginning of this thread you had stated that this would be your '07 IMAC aircraft. I am curious why you would program your aileron servos with so much throw and set you linkage ratios so agresssively. The way it is set up you will have to dial your rates way down and loose resolution. I am also concerned with the ratio and the stock plastic arm leading to flutter.


Shawn