WH-300 3-Amigos build thread (3 ways of doing the same thing)

[Shawn Berkheimer]

I was out there 2 weeks ago and I agree, nice buch of guys. Thats pretty much why I decided to join.


Shawn

[OverTemp]

Doh... I screwed up.

I was drilling out the hard-points for 10-32 RCL screws. I could swear I had the 5/32" bit in the drill. Turns out it was the 11/64" bit.

The screws are snug in the holes and I have to thread them in, but they aren't tight like they should be. I'm going to epoxy them in the holes... epoxy should fill the gap and make them solid again. We'll see how well that works... fingers crossed.

Damn that makes me sick.

[JeeUm]

How about gorilla glue for some extra expansion?

[KrisW]

	Quote: Originally Posted by OverTemp
	Doh... I screwed up. I was drilling out the hard-points for 10-32 RCL screws. I could swear I had the 5/32" bit in the drill. Turns out it was the 11/64" bit. The screws are snug in the holes and I have to thread them in, but they aren't tight like they should be. I'm going to epoxy them in the holes... epoxy should fill the gap and make them solid again. We'll see how well that works... fingers crossed. Damn that makes me sick.

RCL??????

What language is that?

[OverTemp]

	Quote:
	RCL?????? What language is that?

I guess not yours

http://www.nelsonhobby.com/rcl.html

I epoxied them in last night and checked on them this-morning. They are rock solid... the surface flexes before the screws can move... whew!!! I even took one out to check the hardpoint... it has very nice epoxy threads formed in there. It was pretty firm when unthreading too. Pretty sweet.

EDIT: I don't feel so bad now... I was looking through a H9 Ultimate manual... they have you drill a 5/32" hole and then tap it for 8-32 (all charts show 5/32" as the bit size for tapping a 10-32 hole)... I'm using 10-32 so I figure that using an 11/64" bit and tapping for 10-32 is about the same friggen thing. Plus the T-88 epoxy helps.

JeeUm,
I though Gorilla was soft and kinda pliable when cured... that's why I didn't think of it. It makes perfect sense though. Do you have a Radiowave 300? I was torn between that and this plane. I went the cheap route.

[JeeUm]

Yeah, I'm on my second one now. Glad to hear your ok with your bolts.

[wildhare]

	Quote: Originally Posted by OverTemp
	I was torn between that and this plane. I went the cheap route.

No, you went the greater value route. Less expensive is not always cheap, and higher price does not always mean higher quality.

TF

[JeeUm]

	Quote: Originally Posted by wildhare
	No, you went the greater value route. Less expensive is not always cheap, and higher price does not always mean higher quality. TF

Your right, less expensive is not always cheap and I don't think he meant the plane was cheaply built, but the price was cheaper. That is all.

Higher price does not always mean higher quality, which is also correct. But the "other" plane that was mentioned in the previous post is built with extreme high quality fit and finish.

[airborneSGT]

Out of curiousity is it normal for a regular 3W 150 to be such a PITA when it comes putting in the muffler bolts. That was a serious pain in the butt. It would have been much easier to take off the entire carb / snorkel assembly. Had to do a little hacking of the cowl to clear the standard 3W mufflers.

[KrisW]

	Quote: Originally Posted by airborneSGT
	Out of curiousity is it normal for a regular 3W 150 to be such a PITA when it comes putting in the muffler bolts. That was a serious pain in the butt. It would have been much easier to take off the entire carb / snorkel assembly. Had to do a little hacking of the cowl to clear the standard 3W mufflers.

Airborn, I bought a set of ball-drive extensions from Snap-On so I can work on my planes with them. The work great for header bolts and such, but on regular mufflers you are stuck with a straight shot to the angled exhaust flange. so. . YES. . 3W's are a PITA for mounting the exhaust. . even for mere headers getting access to the angled bolts with the inlet piece in the way is a chore. . special tools or not.

Gotta love that wonderful "German Engineering"

Come to think of it. . if the Engineering was so great. . why do you NEED the inlet snorkel in the first place?

[OverTemp]

	Quote: Originally Posted by wildhare
	No, you went the greater value route. Less expensive is not always cheap, and higher price does not always mean higher quality. TF

Sorry... I meant inexpensive.

Both companies make high quality products.

[airborneSGT]

Yeah I would rather take some American engineering there. None of my DA's are that hard to deal with!! Might get to maiden this week. Cousin is flying down today from NC. We will see.

[KrisW]

I HATE this tail gear ! ! !

So it was replaced tonight with a much beefier (and LIGHTER) RC BlimPro Titanium 40% unit.

Unscrew the clamps, pull out (and throw away) the old gear, dril the hole larger for the thicker RcBlimPro unit, install with the same exact clamps.

DONE ! !

And I am MUCH happier now. .



gggggggggggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

RcBlimPro unit is on the top, in the photo. . . Linguini wannabe "stock" unit is on the bottom.

I'll be looking into how to do the same witht he stock Main gear, using the Composite-Arf 3.0m Extra gear in it's place.

[randy racer]

mine came in today . everything looks great so far, and this thing is big.

do you guy really think the tail wheel is to light for the plane?

randy

[wildhare]

New CF gears are being built by both graphtech and RC Supergear.

TF