CRRC Pro GF26I

[joseae]

I had run my CRRC 26 for more than 2 hours on a test stand in the upright position with no starting problems and now that I installed the engine in my Yak 54 (inverted) it just won't start. It only fires up when the carb is extremely wet with a lot of backfiring. Any suggestions?

[DiabloKid]

good reports so far. I might try one in my old CAP-X. Wonder if this little thing can power it like the 160 fx that used to be on it? Will this thing spin a 18x6 enough for mild 3D on a 73" 10lbish plane?

[dealinrc]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	I had run my CRRC 26 for more than 2 hours on a test stand in the upright position with no starting problems and now that I installed the engine in my Yak 54 (inverted) it just won't start. It only fires up when the carb is extremely wet with a lot of backfiring. Any suggestions?

It sounds like your timing is to far advanced. The sensor might have moved or you lost one of the screws that hold it in place. Try retarding the timing by moving the sensor. If that does not work contact me at rconlysite.com and we will solve your problem. I am the distributor for CRRC

[dealinrc]

	Quote: Originally Posted by DiabloKid
	good reports so far. I might try one in my old CAP-X. Wonder if this little thing can power it like the 160 fx that used to be on it? Will this thing spin a 18x6 enough for mild 3D on a 73" 10lbish plane?

It spins a crrc 16/8 at 9000. It pulls my 13 lb at6 straight up at half throttle.With over 40 flights never had a deadstick. You will be impressed. If you want more info contact me

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dealinrc
	It sounds like your timing is to far advanced. The sensor might have moved or you lost one of the screws that hold it in place. Try retarding the timing by moving the sensor. If that does not work contact me at rconlysite.com and we will solve your problem. I am the distributor for CRRC

Nothing was loose or missing from the sensor, but as I tried to move it I noticed one of the holder sides is cracked, I am not sure this can make a difference, anyway I tried moving the sensor but all it does is backfire or run for a second or two and it only happens when the carb is really wet after 20 to 30 flips. Now I don't know what the factory timing setting should be, it is not in the "manual". As I mentioned before up to the time I installed the engine in the plane it had been running well, only a little rich. Any more suggestions? Thank you.

[FLZman]

Just an idea but can you put it back on test stand upright and see if it still runs well? This way we can verify it is the inverted position that is causing problem and not fuel tank or something else. Also a chance that you are not "easily" getting fuel due to trash in carb or diapraghm and when you choke it gets enough to fire (too much will cause the backfire sound) but it doesnt have enough draw to run without choking. If this is problem, it should show up in upright position as well. If it runs well on test stand, I would take a second look at fuel delivery (tank, lines etc).

Z

[3Dguy]

ST! My output shaft isn't true!

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	I had run my CRRC 26 for more than 2 hours on a test stand in the upright position with no starting problems and now that I installed the engine in my Yak 54 (inverted) it just won't start. It only fires up when the carb is extremely wet with a lot of backfiring. Any suggestions?

check the intake manifold to see if it has warped. removew the carb and put a flat edge across it( side that rests on the cyl). if it is untrue it will suck air. if it is no worries. get some 220 grit sand cloth and do figure eights on a piece of glass to make it flat again. this happened to me right away. after doing this it has been more than perfect.

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	Nothing was loose or missing from the sensor, but as I tried to move it I noticed one of the holder sides is cracked, I am not sure this can make a difference, anyway I tried moving the sensor but all it does is backfire or run for a second or two and it only happens when the carb is really wet after 20 to 30 flips. Now I don't know what the factory timing setting should be, it is not in the "manual". As I mentioned before up to the time I installed the engine in the plane it had been running well, only a little rich. Any more suggestions? Thank you.

for testing put a small washer behind the screw. set the sensor in the center of the settings. for most situations without a degree wheel this will run fine set there.

[dealinrc]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	Nothing was loose or missing from the sensor, but as I tried to move it I noticed one of the holder sides is cracked, I am not sure this can make a difference, anyway I tried moving the sensor but all it does is backfire or run for a second or two and it only happens when the carb is really wet after 20 to 30 flips. Now I don't know what the factory timing setting should be, it is not in the "manual". As I mentioned before up to the time I installed the engine in the plane it had been running well, only a little rich. Any more suggestions? Thank you.

To me it sounds like a timing problem. Try moving the sensor to the right as far as it will go. That will retard the timing.

[joseae]

Thank you guys. Z, I'm using the same tank and fuel lines I had been using on the test stand, the tank is already installed in the plane but maybe I should mount the engine right side up in the plane just for testing.

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ken crane
	check the intake manifold to see if it has warped. removew the carb and put a flat edge across it( side that rests on the cyl). if it is untrue it will suck air. if it is no worries. get some 220 grit sand cloth and do figure eights on a piece of glass to make it flat again. this happened to me right away. after doing this it has been more than perfect.

Thanks Ken. I checked the manifold as you said, it looks OK. BTW I noticed some play in the shaft (about 1/32 back and forth) I'm not sure was there before, is that normal?

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dealinrc
	To me it sounds like a timing problem. Try moving the sensor to the right as far as it will go. That will retard the timing.

I tried that today, no change. Could it be a defective electronic module? What about the spark plug? I have heard some guys say it should be replaced with an NGK. It is obvious this is my first gas engine, I have been flying only glow for many years so excuse my lack of knowledge. I will give some of this stuff a try tomorrow, that is if my arm is not too sore. Thanks for the feedback.

[ken crane]

hmm theres not enough of an adjustment to have the timing so far off with that hall sensor adjustment. with the plug i did change to ngk but only for the reason that the torch brand plug seemed cheap. it could be the ignition module. have tried to remove the plug and rotate the prop shaft back and fourth past the mag to see if you have a good blue spark? also make sure that battery is fully charged. if you accidently reversed the hall effect sensor and the battery lead you casn damage the module as well as they share the same style plug.also you said the hall effect sensor was cracked around one of the holes. does this go into the body of the sensor or just around the hole from tightining it ?

[joseae]

No, it only goes close to the hole, no evidence of any cracking around the sensor itself. The battery is a 1400 mA 4.8 nickel metal and it is fully charged. I have done the removed plug rotation thing several times and I do see a spark, a very tiny clicking blue spark that is. I am not sure if that is enough since I have heard other guys mention a big blue spark, now how big is it supposed to be?