CRRC Pro GF26I

[FLZman]

You may have already answered this but if not, have you opened the top plate to carb? the one with one big screw in middle. Inside is a small screen that filters the fuel. Make sure something hasnt got lodged in there. Also, not to long ago, I had the exact same starting problem on a 50cc (different brand but still a walbro) and finally found that somehow the plunger had got stuck. This is on the other side of carb and the plate is held on by 4 small screws. The plunger is spring loaded and should move freely up and down. You may want to make sure it isnt stuck or the brownish paper gasket hasnt shifted blocking off fuel.

Hope this is of some help

Z

[dealinrc]

Joseae
Check your battery under load. It might read ok when there is no load on it and drop off fast when you put a load on it. There were some problems with son sanyo and jr packs, and also remember this takes a 4.8 not a 6 volt battery pack. If the problem still persists contact me at http://www.rconlysite.com
Even if I did not sell you the engine, I am the closest dealer to you and I will help you with your problem.

[flymoor]

The problem seems a fuel problem and before trying things with the electronics, take the carb of and clean it you can take off the cover and the needles and can squirt some carb cleaner in passages, clean the screen if necessary , etc. put it back together. And try it. But before you do this make sure the plumbing is ok with in the fuel tank, and all the way to engine. Pressure test it and make sure clunk is still attached.
Rich

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	No, it only goes close to the hole, no evidence of any cracking around the sensor itself. The battery is a 1400 mA 4.8 nickel metal and it is fully charged. I have done the removed plug rotation thing several times and I do see a spark, a very tiny clicking blue spark that is. I am not sure if that is enough since I have heard other guys mention a big blue spark, now how big is it supposed to be?

lol thats hard to discribe. its not a lightning bolt but should be substantial. whats odd is that it ran fine on the test stand. as some have suggested re check the fuel system to make sure the filter in the carb isnt plugged. is their any chance you may have reversed the leads during install? as i suggested that will ruin the ignition. you will get spark but as soon as the plug feels compression it will stop firing.

[joseae]

OK the screen looks good, the plunger looks good, the battery pack was tested plugged into receiver with a Volt watch and servos operating still shows fully charged. I have been extra careful not to reverse the battery and sensor connectors from day one. I'm just trying to figure out if anything else was changed after removing the engine from the test stand. The muffler probably needs a new gasket but I don't think that would be causing this kind of problem; gas tank and lines are the same I had been using on test stand, all plumbing inside the tank is OK. Sensor module is wrapped in foam and mounted sideways (it was flat on test stand) but I don't think that would be a problem either. I am able to choke the engine, no problems there, it seems to draw fuel normally. I flip it a few times and it fires up but as soon as I release the choke and crank it up it either starts backwards a couple of turns or simply runs for a second or two and stops. I just removed and checked the carb again tonight and everything seems to be OK. I also ordered a couple of ngk's which I would be getting tomorrow, just in case. If nothing works tomorrow, I guess my next step will be to go back to square one and put the engine back on the test stand and see what happens.

[joseae]

Problem solved. IT WAS the spark plug. As soon as I replaced the stock plug with an NGK, it only took a couple of flips to start the engine. The only issue I have right now, other than setting up the idle properly, is radio interference. My receiver goes crazy when the engine is running. Even with the sensor box about 15 inches from the receiver it makes it go out of control all the time. I will be trying a different receiver tomorrow but I'm sure this one is in perfect condition. Anyway, thanks everyone for all suggestions.

[FLZman]

Hmm, glad it fired up with the NGK, a little worried why you are getting such interference with that plug. Which NGK did you use?

Z

[joseae]

It's a CMR7H, I believe the Torch that came with the engine is a clone of the NGK.

[3Dguy]

Where did you get your NGK CMR7H?

[3Dguy]

Double post.

[FLZman]

Okay, I believe that is the one being used. Check the tip(little silver thing at tip) of plug for tightness and any other loose connections in plug cap.

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3Dguy
	Where did you get your NGK CMR7H?

At a local Advance Auto Parts, (3.98 ea.) they didn't have it in stock but was special ordered and arrived the next day. I ordered 2 just in case.

[3Dguy]

Thanks.

[MTS247]

Oh no i hope my radio doesn't glitch! let us know if you find the problem.

Dumb question, should i cut a hole in the cowl for the carb to breath? or can the plastic trumpet thing be quiet close to the cowl?

Also has anyone hacked 10 or 20 mm off the end of the muffler to make fitting easyer. If i can it might mean i can avoid cutting a large slit all the way to the back of the cowl!

[3Dguy]

If the carb intake is close to the cowl, then I'd cut a hole for air. Yes, you can hack off the muffler pipe.

Well, I stuffed mine in the Showtime. The engine with a pitts muffler just barely fit without modification. We're talkin' millimeters here. Cutting the cowl (nicely) was the hardest part. I decieded to use a RCexl ignition, and I'm gonna replace the spark plug with a NGK.