CRRC Pro GF26I

[FLZman]

Boy , just my luck. I am putting the finishing touches on this new plane and just noticed the insulator plate between carb and motor has a crack in it. Is there any jimmy rig fixes to get me by for weekend until I can get a new one headed my way? CA? gasket goop over crack?

Thanks
Z

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	Problem solved. IT WAS the spark plug. As soon as I replaced the stock plug with an NGK, it only took a couple of flips to start the engine. The only issue I have right now, other than setting up the idle properly, is radio interference. My receiver goes crazy when the engine is running. Even with the sensor box about 15 inches from the receiver it makes it go out of control all the time. I will be trying a different receiver tomorrow but I'm sure this one is in perfect condition. Anyway, thanks everyone for all suggestions.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 1 PLASTIC END ON THE THROTTLE LINKAGE AND THAT THE PLUG CAP IS TIGHT. BEEN THERE DONE THAT AS WELL

[dealinrc]

What Radio are you using. The older radios do not like electronic ignitions. To be safe you should use either pcm or 2.4. I have seen this problem before and as soon as he switched to 2.4 it was gone

[3Dguy]

Will a BCMA ignition work with the CRRC 26?

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dealinrc
	What Radio are you using. The older radios do not like electronic ignitions. To be safe you should use either pcm or 2.4. I have seen this problem before and as soon as he switched to 2.4 it was gone

As far as I know all PCM does is mask the problem and may eventually lead to failure. My only choice at this point would be 2.4 even though I don't like the idea of investing in a new radio system. I know for a fact there are many guys out there flying gassers with "older" fm radios, even with the same Futaba receiver I am using. I still haven't figured out exactly what's causing the problem but it seems to get worse with higher rpm. At first I thought it was caused by the throttle servo being too close to the ignition but after disconnecting the servo the glitch diminished a little but it's still there. I tried moving the ignition battery and ignition itself but only managed some minor improvements. Next I am going to try another brand/model receiver to see if it does any better. As for the engine itself, I am having trouble setting up the idle, as soon as I go under 2800 rpm (I am running a wood Zinger 16/8) it stops.

[2robinhood]

Where did you buy the engine?
With the troubles you have been having, the RF noise and stopping at 2800 rpm you maybe having ignition problems.
Just remember, you need three basic things for a gasoline engine to run.
1 Fuel
2 Air
3 Spark

There are plenty of other factors that can come into play, but those are your basics.

If you are already up and running then it dies, check fuel and spark.
Is it breaking up / missing, or does it just shut down?
Do you have a temp gun to see what the temp is when it shuts off?
Where do you have your needles set at?
What battery are you running?

From what I have seen, you have only changed to spark plug, right?

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 2robinhood
	Where did you buy the engine? With the troubles you have been having, the RF noise and stopping at 2800 rpm you maybe having ignition problems. Just remember, you need three basic things for a gasoline engine to run. 1 Fuel 2 Air 3 Spark There are plenty of other factors that can come into play, but those are your basics. If you are already up and running then it dies, check fuel and spark. Is it breaking up / missing, or does it just shut down? Do you have a temp gun to see what the temp is when it shuts off? Where do you have your needles set at? What battery are you running? From what I have seen, you have only changed to spark plug, right?

robinhood and i have multipul versions of this motor. we have had real good luck. what we have found is that the stock settings are real close. its hard when all of us are giving you ideas but were all trying. i would start now by setting both needles at 1 1/4 out. turn them both in until they stop then back them out. buy a new gallon of fuel and mix it at 50:1 run it with the cowl off. try running it with a fully charged 4.8 volt battery. if it still runs this way switch to a 6 volt for testing reasons. do not run it for more than 10 min or so on 6 volt do this as a test. report back.

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ken crane
	robinhood and i have multipul versions of this motor. we have had real good luck. what we have found is that the stock settings are real close. its hard when all of us are giving you ideas but were all trying. i would start now by setting both needles at 1 1/4 out. turn them both in until they stop then back them out. buy a new gallon of fuel and mix it at 50:1 run it with the cowl off. try running it with a fully charged 4.8 volt battery. if it still runs this way switch to a 6 volt for testing reasons. do not run it for more than 10 min or so on 6 volt do this as a test. report back.

Looks like I'm learning the hard way, but I really appreciate your ideas. Remember, this is unknown territory to me, after being flying only glow for more than 20 years. My radio glitch issue has been solved. I found the spark plug cap was not all the way in. I didn't know I had to push really hard to make it snap in place and since the engine had been running rather well, I thought it was OK. I am almost done with my first gallon of gas (25:1), my next gallon will definitely be a lot less "oily". I managed to bring the idle down a little this morning, about 2600 rpm. What kind of numbers are you guys getting on the low end?

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	Looks like I'm learning the hard way, but I really appreciate your ideas. Remember, this is unknown territory to me, after being flying only glow for more than 20 years. My radio glitch issue has been solved. I found the spark plug cap was not all the way in. I didn't know I had to push really hard to make it snap in place and since the engine had been running rather well, I thought it was OK. I am almost done with my first gallon of gas (25:1), my next gallon will definitely be a lot less "oily". I managed to bring the idle down a little this morning, about 2600 rpm. What kind of numbers are you guys getting on the low end?

i can idle safely in both the 26 and 50 at between 1000-1200.it may need to be more near 1300 with the bigger prop.
the school of hard knocks is the best way to learn. no college prof. can learn you those lessons.in my humble opinion i would ditch the 25:1 and move to 50:1.i am running at 100:1 amsoil sabre. i am one that does not follow rules well and raced two strokes from snowmobiles to ktm off road to huge 8 cyl. johnson outboards in off shore racing. we never ever used cheap oil and never ran them more than 50:1.
i am as well having an issue with my 50 that is in the 300 extra i fly every week. i honestly have well over 15 gallons thru it and its only 6-7 months old and we have real winter here. i average atleast a gallon per day. this weekend i did well over 15 flights and my flights are 10-15 minutes each. i drain a 24 ounce tank each flight. i do not fly like most. i dislike 3d. i fly imac style with a twist. i was never learned "throttle management". i fly wfo from the start to the cool down lap.( i was told by a good source that robinhood flys the same way)i am running a 20x8 dynathrust prop. the motor is running wot (wide open throttle) at around 8500-9000 rpm. it flys soo fast and so well i dont want to touch it. it lands with a glide path that is soo easy to flair to. now that i spewed all of that i am now getting complaints from my fellow fliers that i am making too much noise. so after talking to my friend ray at http://www.prcmodel.com i must surrender and use the correct prop. its not prop noise but the 50 is screaming so many revs i need to slow it down.sad but true its too fast and too loud....i must say it has been the best investment to date and cant wait to finish the wagstaff. must have it ready for the huckfest in 4 weeks at woodstock ct.

sorry guys just realized i posted 50cc stuff in the 26 thread.

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 2robinhood
	Where did you buy the engine? With the troubles you have been having, the RF noise and stopping at 2800 rpm you maybe having ignition problems. Just remember, you need three basic things for a gasoline engine to run. 1 Fuel 2 Air 3 Spark There are plenty of other factors that can come into play, but those are your basics. If you are already up and running then it dies, check fuel and spark. Is it breaking up / missing, or does it just shut down? Do you have a temp gun to see what the temp is when it shuts off? Where do you have your needles set at? What battery are you running? From what I have seen, you have only changed to spark plug, right?

I bought this engine from Maxford USA, it was a combo, engine and 25% Yak 54. Assuming my tach is OK, the engine becomes a little unstable around 2500 rpm and if I try to go lower it slowly stops. No, I don't have a temp gun. I had changed the needles setting at one point but right now they are as suggested by the "manual". My battery is a Hydrimax nickel metal 4.8V 1200mA pack. Yes I replaced the original spark plug with a NGK CMR7H.

[3Dguy]

Ok, I've run my engine for a total of 45 minutes now, but there seems to be a problem. The engine will not reach full rpm. I have yet to fly it. When I advance the throttle, it will rev, and once it reaches the higher RPM's (over 6,000), it will start to lag and will eventually quit unless I throttle back. The transition is lightning quick, and it's not overheating on the ground.

I used the factory needle settings, the ones suggested in the manual, and everything else from lean to rich on both the H and L needles. I don't think this is a needle problem because even with a poor-ish tune (unless lean) an engine will rev up and keep running...or maybe it won't...what do I know? I'm using the stock ignition and spark plug (Torch CMR7H), and my ignition battery's working fine. The ignition makes a nice spark. The prop is a Master Airscrew 16x8. What should I do/check/replace?

[2robinhood]

I would say you are having carb issues.
Not sure what without seeing it.
It seems like a lean issue to me.
Super fast transition , then a dry bogging on high end?
Lean.
Check for air leaks around carb base and fuel lines.

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3Dguy
	Ok, I've run my engine for a total of 45 minutes now, but there seems to be a problem. The engine will not reach full rpm. I have yet to fly it. When I advance the throttle, it will rev, and once it reaches the higher RPM's (over 6,000), it will start to lag and will eventually quit unless I throttle back. The transition is lightning quick, and it's not overheating on the ground. I used the factory needle settings, the ones suggested in the manual, and everything else from lean to rich on both the H and L needles. I don't think this is a needle problem because even with a poor-ish tune (unless lean) an engine will rev up and keep running...or maybe it won't...what do I know? I'm using the stock ignition and spark plug (Torch CMR7H), and my ignition battery's working fine. The ignition makes a nice spark. The prop is a Master Airscrew 16x8. What should I do/check/replace?

are all of the fuel lines free of kinks? what type of clunk did you use? is their a fuel filter between the tank and carb if so what type. if it is a hanger 9 style or like make sure it is screwes together tight so you have no air leaks. do you see air bubbles in the fuel line at wot? is the carb plate trying to go past center? try using the sub trim in your radio to back the throttle plate back slightly from center. if you remove the plug and "read it " what is the color and condition of the electrode (it should be rusty. also when you replaced the torch with the ngk did you re gap it or install it from the box? most plugs are way off and need to be gaped properly. too small of a gap will produce a weak spark as well to large a gap waill cause misfires.also the 25:1 oil ratio might be the issue as well.thats a boat load of oil

[2robinhood]

I guess Ray @ http://www.prcmodel.com/index.php shop run and 21 point inspection mean something then.
Both of my motors came from him and I know Ken Crane got his from Ray also and neither one of us has any issues.

That's why I buy from Ray......... and he stand behind what he sells if there is an issue.

We will all do our best to help you guys out, but some of us have not had the problems some of you are having.
If we had the problems and mess with them, we would know the fix.

[mtwister]

If you're engine slows down after running in the high rpm's after a few seconds or minutes, then open up the HS needle just a sliver at a time. You're too lean.