CRRC Pro GF26I

[3Dguy]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ken crane
	are all of the fuel lines free of kinks? what type of clunk did you use? is their a fuel filter between the tank and carb if so what type. if it is a hanger 9 style or like make sure it is screwes together tight so you have no air leaks. do you see air bubbles in the fuel line at wot? is the carb plate trying to go past center? try using the sub trim in your radio to back the throttle plate back slightly from center. if you remove the plug and "read it " what is the color and condition of the electrode (it should be rusty. also when you replaced the torch with the ngk did you re gap it or install it from the box? most plugs are way off and need to be gaped properly. too small of a gap will produce a weak spark as well to large a gap waill cause misfires.also the 25:1 oil ratio might be the issue as well.thats a boat load of oil

Ken, the line is kink-free, I'm using an O.S. bubbleless clunk, there's a Sullivan inline "Crap Trap" filter between the carb and tank, the fuel line is free of bubbles at any throttle setting, the carb plate is centered at WOT, and I'm using the factory torch plug [it is brown with no deposits]. Should I try a leaner fuel-oil mix?

[3Dguy]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 2robinhood
	I would say you are having carb issues. Not sure what without seeing it. It seems like a lean issue to me. Super fast transition , then a dry bogging on high end? Lean. Check for air leaks around carb base and fuel lines.

Yea, it sounds lean, and screwing around with the needles did not fix it. I'll check for air leaks.

	Quote: Originally Posted by 2robinhood
	I guess Ray @ http://www.prcmodel.com/index.php shop run and 21 point inspection mean something then. Both of my motors came from him and I know Ken Crane got his from Ray also and neither one of us has any issues. That's why I buy from Ray......... and he stand behind what he sells if there is an issue. We will all do our best to help you guys out, but some of us have not had the problems some of you are having. If we had the problems and mess with them, we would know the fix.

I got my engine from rconlysite.com.

mtwister, I was able to adjust the needles while the engine was running, and I did that. I opened 'em more than a sliver...it does the same thing.

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3Dguy
	Ken, the line is kink-free, I'm using an O.S. bubbleless clunk, there's a Sullivan inline "Crap Trap" filter between the carb and tank, the fuel line is free of bubbles at any throttle setting, the carb plate is centered at WOT, and I'm using the factory torch plug [it is brown with no deposits]. Should I try a leaner fuel-oil mix?

is that the filter that is a clear plastic tube with 2 screens in it? if so try removing that. lets say if i were doing this i would try a mixture of 50:1 and see if that clears the misfire. also replace the torch with an ngk plug. i dont remember the number but napa had the replacement in stock. go back a page or 2 and others have posted the ngk number. the torch plug is cheap and the insulator has been known to come loose and leak spark at high rpm. reaching for straws here but these are the basics. if you leaned the high speed needle more than 1/4 turn with no change its prob not that. both should be at 1 1/4 to start out for a ref point.

[2robinhood]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3Dguy
	mtwister, I was able to adjust the needles while the engine was running, and I did that. I opened 'em more than a sliver...it does the same thing.

If you can adjust the high needle while runnig wide open ( be careful ).
Turn it a half turn in both directions ( start going to the rich side ).
If the motor is not affected by a half turn either way, you are having a carb / needle problem.
A half turn should produce some kind of performance change.

You can do the same thing with the low end needle while the engine is running slightly higer then an idle ( 2500 - 2800 rpm ).
You will see some kind of change.
If not then we know it is a fuel delivery problem, not timing, ignition, etc.

[TrikeFlyer]

When trying to debug an engine problem make sure you are starting with a FULLY CHARGED battery
so you can eliminate this possible cause of high speed mis fire..

These CDI ignitions will start cutting out at high throttle settings as the battery can not supply enough juice to recharge the capacitor fast enough in the CDI. You can throttle back and the engine will run fine. If you advance the throttle again it will cut out.

battery should be minimum 2100 Mah or 2500 Mah capacity. 4.8 volts or 6 volts doesn't matter the CDI will work equally as good with either.

What CDI do you have??? Is it the CRRCpro CDI??? Switch to an Rcexl CDI and all your ignition problems will disappear.

Trike

[3Dguy]

The high speed needle does not affect the engine (it won't run long enough at that speed anyway). The low speed needle does affect the engine RPM. I am VERY careful when adjusting needles. So, I really think the fuel delivery is fine and there's no leaks because one needle is working. Maybe the H needle doesn't work because the ignition is screwed up? I'm using a 2500 mah 4.8V pack.

I have a Rcexl ignition in the garage, so I tried it, and the engine behaves the same way, but I did use the same Torch plug (my NGK is on order). Could the spark plug cause this crappy behavior?

[grossy]

Hi 3DGuy,

When you tried the new CDI unit did you also swap out the Hall Effect Sensor?
These little units can play up as well. Make sure all Elec conections are ok, for it defentaly sound like a Elec problem.

Cheers
Grossy

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3Dguy
	The high speed needle does not affect the engine (it won't run long enough at that speed anyway). The low speed needle does affect the engine RPM. I am VERY careful when adjusting needles. So, I really think the fuel delivery is fine and there's no leaks because one needle is working. Maybe the H needle doesn't work because the ignition is screwed up? I'm using a 2500 mah 4.8V pack. I have a Rcexl ignition in the garage, so I tried it, and the engine behaves the same way, but I did use the same Torch plug (my NGK is on order). Could the spark plug cause this crappy behavior?

dont try anything else until you get a new plug and poss change the mixture to 50:1

[TrikeFlyer]

Yes, definitely change to NGK plug and throw the "TORCH" plug away as they are known for quality problems like earlier Post about cracked insulator. You can not see the crack but it will leak voltage to ground at higher throttle settings as the resistance to jump the gap on the plug increases with RPM.

The engine should run OK at any RPM with 25;1 or 32:1 break in mixture. You can look back at earlier part of this thread and see my RPM tests with different props on the CRRCpro 26 running 32;1 mixture during break in. But You will definitely see an increase in top RPM with 40:1 or 50:1 mixture..

Trike

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by TrikeFlyer
	Yes, definitely change to NGK plug and throw the "TORCH" plug away as they are known for quality problems like earlier Post about cracked insulator. You can not see the crack but it will leak voltage to ground at higher throttle settings as the resistance to jump the gap on the plug increases with RPM. The engine should run OK at any RPM with 25;1 or 32:1 break in mixture. You can look back at earlier part of this thread and see my RPM tests with different props on the CRRCpro 26 running 32;1 mixture during break in. But You will definitely see an increase in top RPM with 40:1 or 50:1 mixture.. Trike

BTW I AM INTRESTED IN THE LAZER STILL HAVE IT?MINE DIDNT SURVIVE....

[2robinhood]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ken crane
	BTW I AM INTRESTED IN THE LAZER STILL HAVE IT?MINE DIDNT SURVIVE....

What did you do ????????????????
You didn't say anything to me about dumping it.

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 2robinhood
	What did you do ???????????????? You didn't say anything to me about dumping it.

well....i flew the wheels off of it. i bet i put 50 flights on it in a few months time. i fly like you wfo. unfortunatly the motor ran too well and it flew real fast. too many fast knife edge passes and i stuck the rudder hard over. seized the rudder servo at about 1/3 deflection. ever try to land with the rudder hard over at the stall point? i tried and tried to get it to land and just at the stall speed it would try and loop over to the left/ after 5 or 6 trys i gave it my best shot and it rolled and it looped real hard. no need to say more as you have had one. it broke in 3 pieces. i have lots of wings cowls and canopys. i want another so i think i will order a new fuse. but my newest plane is as they say here "bad ass". i am almost finished its an older wagstaff that was lost in a divorce sale. never assembled. crrc 50 and some real high end servos and hardware. plan to maiden this weekend. here is the link to our event in 3 weeks as well.

http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/f...tml#post502140

[3Dguy]

Thanks fer da info, guys. I think I'm just going to play with the needles before I do something drastic. It's probably just lean.

[3Dguy]

I am proud to announce that my own stupidity was the cause of the engine's erratic running! When I soldered a fitting on the diaphragm plate, I didn't check to make sure it didn't interfere...it was. I removed the fitting, and it runs just fine.

[TrikeFlyer]

Hey Ken, if you want another SeaGull Laser I just stripped the 26, servos & receiver out of mine.

Where are you located as I don't think I can ship the Laser. I am in Dallas will sell the Laser cheap as have gone ALL ELECTRIC!! You know 3d Hobby Shop type electric.

Trike.