CRRC Pro GF26I

[2robinhood]

I have been using the NGK CMR7A.
I bought them on E-bay, 10 pack @ the door for about $15.00

NGK codes:

C = 10mm thread
M = compact plug
R = resistor plug
7 = heat range
H = half thread............... A = special design

[MTS247]

Cool thanks

Iv had to replace the hall sensor and im not sure where to set the timing iv got it in the centre, what timing positions do what? how can i improve transition from idle to full noise? improve idle?

[TrikeFlyer]

Locate top dead center and mark your prop hub. Put degree wheel on where prop goes. Line up 0 degrees with TDC, then rotate counter clock wise and mark both 28, 30 and 32 degrees on prop hub.

(if you don't have a degree wheel go to Walgreens or Office Depot and buy a cheap protractor)

Now hook up your ignition system with switch and battery with the spark plug out of the engine. Make sure spark plug is grounded to the metal shield.

Now slowly rotate the engine counter clockwise and when you hear the spark snap look at the pointer and your timing marks to see how many degrees BTC (before top dead center) the ignition is firing. rotate the hall sensor until the ignition fires at 28 or 30 degrees BTC and lock down screws.

NOTE: the hall effect sensor must have the white printing facing the magnet to work if you are going to replace a hall efect sensor.

This is all a very simple proceeduer. HAVE FUN!!!

Trike.

[2robinhood]

FLZman , have you received your engine yet?

[FLZman]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 2robinhood
	FLZman , have you received your engine yet?

I was just about to post . Yes I got my new motor from Ray on friday and had a blast with it over weekend. I can't say enough about Ray, not only did he feel bad for my experiences with first one bought from somewhere else, he gave me a substantial discount for my problems even though he had nothing to do with original sale. He also took the time and gave the engine a good 1 hour or so test run before shipping it out just to make sure it was right. I bolted in on and the plane saw more flying time than it has for last 4 four weekends.....lol. Lessons learned and Ray stepped up to plate.

Oh, also I sent Ray the seized up engine and he is going to fix it up. Now I wil have an engine in need of a home..........hmmmm


Z

[joseae]

Has anyone experienced a high pitch noise coming from the front of this engine. It comes as the engine warms up and is more noticeable at idle. Sometimes it varies in pitch. I have 4 flights on my Yak 54/CRRC 26, it seems to be running very rich, 4 stroke style. After sliding the sensor to the right that seemed to improve, but the high pitch noise is getting worse. I noticed it gets quite loud and then the engine dies. Could this be metal to metal? Or maybe ball bearings? Maybe this is part of the problem of not being able to idle below 2200 rpm. I am also still having issues with rc interference affecting mainly the throttle servo, but that I can take care of. Any suggestions? (other than contacting CRRC). I have been using a Xoar 17/6, 40:1 gas mix and a 1200 mA nickel metal for ignition.

[Doublesixes]

Be careful of that noise. My 26cc was making some weird noise similar to what you describe and finally quit in midair. Nobody could get it to run reliably again. I'm negotiating with CRRC China to see if they can replace the engine but i"m rather skeptical at this point.

[3Dguy]

Bearings?

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Doublesixes
	Be careful of that noise. My 26cc was making some weird noise similar to what you describe and finally quit in midair. Nobody could get it to run reliably again. I'm negotiating with CRRC China to see if they can replace the engine but i"m rather skeptical at this point.

Who did you buy it from?

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	Has anyone experienced a high pitch noise coming from the front of this engine. It comes as the engine warms up and is more noticeable at idle. Sometimes it varies in pitch. I have 4 flights on my Yak 54/CRRC 26, it seems to be running very rich, 4 stroke style. After sliding the sensor to the right that seemed to improve, but the high pitch noise is getting worse. I noticed it gets quite loud and then the engine dies. Could this be metal to metal? Or maybe ball bearings? Maybe this is part of the problem of not being able to idle below 2200 rpm. I am also still having issues with rc interference affecting mainly the throttle servo, but that I can take care of. Any suggestions? (other than contacting CRRC). I have been using a Xoar 17/6, 40:1 gas mix and a 1200 mA nickel metal for ignition.

first off interference did you make sure the plug cap is as tight as it can be and did you dump the torch brand plug for a ngk or like? can you make a video with sound of the noise? by moving the sensor you are advancing or retarding the timing. this could change the sound of a bad or failing berring as you change the fire point. hearing it would be a better method to help.

[Noddy]

I don't want to hijack this thread, however getting back to the original topic, I recently bought one of these little gems. In fact tonight was the first time it ran. I'm totally new to petrol engines having flown predominantly glow and electric models for the past 30 years. I have been lurking and following this thread with great interest particularly having just purchased this motor. The largest motor I have owned was a Super Tiger ST2000/25 some years ago and it was a lovely motor to live with, albeit a little thirsty but it was running on straight fuel so not so expensive. Anyway back on track, I was somewhat intimidated at the thought of starting this engine, but it was a total anticlimax. It backfired once or twice (throttle open too far), even spitting off the prop on one occasion but that was my fault for not being firm enough on the spanner. (Having read this thread I didn't want to be too enthusiastic and split the prop driver). Once tightened correctly she was running withing half a dozen or so flicks. It sure looks like I'm not going to be short of power on this model (Seagull Extra 260 63"), it pulls like a steam train. I haven't adjusted the needles they are exactly as set in the factory and give a nice throttle response from a reasonably low idle to full power. Currently I'm running on a 25:1 fuel oil mixture so she's a little oily but at least she's well lubricated. I'm now really excited at the prospect of the maiden. I'll keep you all posted on the outcome.

ATB

Paul

[ken crane]

hello everyone viewing this thread. this has been most intresting as we have now found more fraud being spewed here. when you read a post and it looks fishy, smells like fish and is slimy like a fish, its probably a fish......

[2robinhood]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ken crane
	hello everyone viewing this thread. this has been most intresting as we have now found more fraud being spewed here. when you read a post and it looks fishy, smells like fish and is slimy like a fish, its probably a fish......

True, True, True.

Hey Sleepy, please keep an eye on the IP addresses of these new members that are chiming in on the CRRC and XYZ engine thread.

RConlysite has gone under three different names ( that I know of ) and is playing games trying to drum up buisness for himself.
Name #1 = dealinrc
Name #2 = stuntal54
Name #3 ( I can't remember ).

These ( CRRC ) great engines, BUT he is misleading everyone that reads Flyingiants.com
Let's hear real reports from guys that rally have the engines.
Ken and I both have the 26cc and 50cc and they scream.

This guy is one major TROLL.
If he's a creep like this on these sites, how is he in person.
Would any of you buy from a guy like this??????? Not me...........

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ken crane
	first off interference did you make sure the plug cap is as tight as it can be and did you dump the torch brand plug for a ngk or like? can you make a video with sound of the noise? by moving the sensor you are advancing or retarding the timing. this could change the sound of a bad or failing berring as you change the fire point. hearing it would be a better method to help.

Plug cap is tight and I am using the NGK plug. The noise it was making is more like a bass flute, low whistling sound. It just seemed to get louder last time and now it won't even start. It has a good spark and I can see it draws fuel but it just refuses to fire up.

[FLZman]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 2robinhood
	This guy is one major TROLL. If he's a creep like this on these sites, how is he in person. Would any of you buy from a guy like this??????? Not me...........

Unfortunately, I found out the hard way but to answer the question above.........NEVER AGAIN IN A MILLION YEARS! Fortunatley, Ray from PRC stepped up to the plate to right the wrongs done to me by this creep.

Z