CRRC Pro GF26I

[FLZman]

	Quote: Originally Posted by joseae
	Plug cap is tight and I am using the NGK plug. The noise it was making is more like a bass flute, low whistling sound. It just seemed to get louder last time and now it won't even start. It has a good spark and I can see it draws fuel but it just refuses to fire up.

Joesae,

Did you buy it from one of the dealers outside of Florida? If so, I think at this point I would send it in and let it get diagnosed, something sure sounds not right. Or, you are about a hour from here, you are more then welcome to bring it and the plane to our field and we can look at it and probably diagnose the problem but just by your description, this sounds like it will need some part(s) (most likely bearings but just a guess without hearing it) to fix it. Who knows, it may be something simpler. Just let me know if I can help.


Z

[FLZman]

One other question, how is the compression? Has it changed any since the sound started?

Z

[3Dguy]

Okay, I have most of the bugs worked out, but I think I've found the last one!

The engine runs fine on the plane while level, but when I pitch the nose vertical, the engine doesn't run the same. The RPM fluctuates, and it goes lean, and sometimes, it quits. The high speed needle doesn't seem to work as I can open it to about 3.5 turns and the rpm is the same as 1.5 turns out (while the plane is level).

This is how I tuned it.
-Peak the high, and richen 100 rpm (hard to do since the needle doesn't really respond)
-Lean the low until it won't transition, and then richen it just so it does, then go 1/16 more. (the low needle works pretty good)
-Retouch the high end (again, kinda hard)

I thought the carb was supposed to pump fuel. Is this a tuning problem? Sending the engine to Ray is a last resort, but he is a nice guy.

[krayzc]

3d send it in the carb sounds stopped up (ports)

[Noddy]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ken crane
	hello everyone viewing this thread. this has been most interesting as we have now found more fraud being spewed here. when you read a post and it looks fishy, smells like fish and is slimy like a fish, its probably a fish......

I hope this post isn't aimed at me. I have to say though that I bought this engine before I found the Giants web site. When I found this thread and started to read I honestly thought I had bought a dog. It's very difficult as a new board member to differentiate the good guys (yourself obviously and 2robinhood to name but 2) who give honest and clear information and trolls. I have merely pointed out my findings on my engine using stock settings and all the supplied equipment from the model shop. by the way I am using a JXF 17x8 prop. I have been doing more running tonight prior to the test fright and from my findings it seems to be getting a lot easier to start. I am using only a 1400MaH 4.8v pack for the CDI. Performance up to now seems perfectly adequate and not as noisy as I anticipated it would be. So far I am a very happy chappy.

Best Regards

Paul

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by FLZman
	Joesae, Did you buy it from one of the dealers outside of Florida? If so, I think at this point I would send it in and let it get diagnosed, something sure sounds not right. Or, you are about a hour from here, you are more then welcome to bring it and the plane to our field and we can look at it and probably diagnose the problem but just by your description, this sounds like it will need some part(s) (most likely bearings but just a guess without hearing it) to fix it. Who knows, it may be something simpler. Just let me know if I can help. Z

Thanks for the invitation. Yes one thing I noticed is reduced compression, the prop when flipped does not kick the way it used to. I bought this engine from Maxford USA as part of an airplane/engine combo. I have been trying to figure this thing out, looking at the schematic there are not that many parts to deal with. I would take the carb out of the equation, even though it may be leaking air through a small crack in the plastic spacer, that in itself would not cause the engine not to start. I am almost positive there are no issues with the electronic parts, I get a good spark and batteries are good. That leaves out what? Bearings, piston, ring? Maybe timing? At this point I am corresponding by email with MaxfordUSA and other venues to try and solve this problem. Funny thing is I ordered an Airtronics 2.4 radio to minimize radio interference caused by the little gasser and now (don't know how long) there will be no gasser.

[FLZman]

It shouldn't but since it got louder and now won't start is possibly/probably because there isnt enough compression to draw fuel. Pull the plug and verify that somehow you don't have a hole in top of piston. You will probably need a flashlight to see down in there. There will be a little "pit" but make sure it hasnt gone through the piston. If not, inspect the engine very closely, possibly with magnifying glass if you have one and look for any crack or leakage signs. Only one thing can cause a lost of compression, that is not having a sealed engine or at least sealed to factory design.

[joseae]

By the way, anyone looking for a 2.4 radio, the Airtronics RDS8000 has received excellent reviews and Hobby People has it on sale for $230 with free shipping. That includes transmitter and TWO receivers.

[joseae]

	Quote: Originally Posted by FLZman
	It shouldn't but since it got louder and now won't start is possibly/probably because there isnt enough compression to draw fuel. Pull the plug and verify that somehow you don't have a hole in top of piston. You will probably need a flashlight to see down in there. There will be a little "pit" but make sure it hasnt gone through the piston. If not, inspect the engine very closely, possibly with magnifying glass if you have one and look for any crack or leakage signs. Only one thing can cause a lost of compression, that is not having a sealed engine or at least sealed to factory design.

Well actuallly I manually sprayed some fuel inside the carb and not even that made the engine show signs of combustion. The way I see it, if there is a leakage the engine will certainly run erracticly but that should not keep it from firing up. Now a hole in the piston would be a different story.

[FLZman]

Yep, I am just thinking of easy things to look for. By easy, I mean things that dont require any disassembly of motor.

Z

[flymoor]

Actually it is not hard to take apart the engine and put it back together, I did this with the one I am running presently after a stab blew apart in the air and power crashed, bent crank, broken carb insulator and cracked front case, it cost less than fifty dollars to repair and about four hours of work. Works excellently ever sense as it did before.

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Noddy
	I hope this post isn't aimed at me. I have to say though that I bought this engine before I found the Giants web site. When I found this thread and started to read I honestly thought I had bought a dog. It's very difficult as a new board member to differentiate the good guys (yourself obviously and 2robinhood to name but 2) who give honest and clear information and trolls. I have merely pointed out my findings on my engine using stock settings and all the supplied equipment from the model shop. by the way I am using a JXF 17x8 prop. I have been doing more running tonight prior to the test fright and from my findings it seems to be getting a lot easier to start. I am using only a 1400MaH 4.8v pack for the CDI. Performance up to now seems perfectly adequate and not as noisy as I anticipated it would be. So far I am a very happy chappy. Best Regards Paul

\

nope not at all. not you he is now gone

[Noddy]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ken crane
	nope not at all. not you he is now gone

Cheers Ken, I feel better about it now. My engine has now had a couple of hours running now still on the factory settings. Running procedure has been 10 min on then cool down, then 10 min etc. I'm still seeing black oily deposits coming out the exhaust but it is getting less. Running on 25:1 fully synthetic oil. The motor is getting easier to start now coming to life after 3 or 4 flips (after choking). It seems only to want to start after cooling if I use the choke though, is this normal? She is showing signs of wanting to go do you think it's wise to continue running in in the air? Here she is before I fitted the CDI unit:

Cheers

Paul

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Noddy
	Cheers Ken, I feel better about it now. My engine has now had a couple of hours running now still on the factory settings. Running procedure has been 10 min on then cool down, then 10 min etc. I'm still seeing black oily deposits coming out the exhaust but it is getting less. Running on 25:1 fully synthetic oil. The motor is getting easier to start now coming to life after 3 or 4 flips (after choking). It seems only to want to start after cooling if I use the choke though, is this normal? She is showing signs of wanting to go do you think it's wise to continue running in in the air? Here she is before I fitted the CDI unit: Cheers Paul

paul i work for a paintball company that is in birmingham as well china. where are you in relation to birmingham?

[Noddy]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ken crane
	paul i work for a paintball company that is in birmingham as well china. where are you in relation to birmingham?

Roughly 100 miles North East of Birmingham, in a small villiage just outside Doncaster south Yorkshire. I was working just around Birmingham just yesterday in Sollihull.

Paul